lost 8 quarts of oil in 20 miles HELP!

[Lil' Whitie]

last night i drove to work my check oil light came on on the hiway. i shut off the engine as fast i could and checked the oil, it was bone dry. dumped three quarts in and got it to work

doumped another two quarts in and got it home but as soon i got home it was dry again( light did not come on yet)


i have the car on a curb now and right now i can't see too good but from what i can see looks like the whole front of the engine and cv joint is just wet full of oil. looks like a blowen engine cranks seal. but i'm waiting for my flashlight to charge and then i hopfully can see better.


if it is the front seal how much work am i looking at? pulling the engine out? or can i repare it with the engine in there? looks like the car might not be worth it and i don't have the experience, cash, or the garage and tools to do it!

any help would be most appreceated!

thanks!

[keycb7]

seams tha your countershaft seals retainer is on the way out. You dont need to pull motor out to replace it, but you will need some basic tools for this job, also good time to replace your timing belt, water pump, tensioner, crank seal, cam seal.

The retainer is that half moon like metal part that you can see in left top corner in this link

[Lil' Whitie]

seams tha your countershaft seals retainer is on the way out. You dont need to pull motor out to replace it, but you will need some basic tools for this job, also good time to replace your timing belt, water pump, tensioner, crank seal, cam seal.

The retainer is that half moon like metal part that you can see in left top corner in this link

ok thanks! yeeah i'm about due for a t belt replacemet soon. wonder does that mean i have to drop the oilpan too?

just called a buddy and he said i can use his garage and tools, only downside is that he is 45min away.

called up my dad and said he have a calivier for me !
aaaaaahh i won't be caught alive of dead in a caliver! gotta get this car going!

thanks!

[keycb7]

ok thanks! yeeah i'm about due for a t belt replacemet soon. wonder does that mean i have to drop the oilpan too?

just called a buddy and he said i can use his garage and tools, only downside is that he is 45min away.

called up my dad and said he have a calivier for me !
aaaaaahh i won't be caught alive of dead in a caliver! gotta get his car going!

thanks!

No need to drop oil pan, unless you want to replace oil pan gasket.
Don't even think about driving your car till you solve this problem, your pushing your luck with beaten 15 year old engine with out oil to lubricate it self.

[Lil' Whitie]

No need to drop oil pan, unless you want to replace oil pan gasket.
Don't even think about driving your car till you solve this problem, your pushing your luck with beaten 15 year old engine with out oil to lubricate it self.

well thanks to you i think i know whats wrong with my car now. heh but i'm kinda nervous about doing my first tbelt job lol.


but yeah that would explain the instant fast oil leak then. and you are right i should not even try to start that car now. i just heard from that thread how many blew up due to oil starvation.

i'm just so glad i turned off my car fast and saved it.

once again thanks

[keycb7]

The easy and correct way of doing T-belt is, get sone white toch-up paint with little brush, beffore removing your old belt make marks on the belt and gears, remove your belt and trace all marks you made to new belt, count all the tooth's between marks so you know it's the same as old one. Put beck on and match with marks on the gears. This way it goes same way you had beffore.

Another problem you will have is removing the crank puley, two oprions here, air tools "torque gun" just to let you know the sears 600tq air gun did not work for me.
second option is 5ft braker bar 24" to 6" extension and 24mm socket (if I remember right) suported on the car stand, and wedget flat screw driver in flywheel. Also I had to get long 17mm socket for engine mount nut.
Give your self 5-8 hr for this job, as your doing it first time.

[v-dub]

i'll take it if you dont want it...

[Lil' Whitie]

i'll take it if you dont want it...

haha k one grand as is!

nah i decided to save up for the parts and try it out myself. hopfully i can pull it off.

lol found a vid on david's farm on how to change the t belt and looks alright hopfully i can do it lol

[v-dub]

yeah dude for sure you'l get it all figured out it just sounds scarry.. let us know how it goes..

[HondaFan81]

More than like it is the front balance shaft seal that needs to be replaced. It spins twice as fast as the crank, therefore potential for more wear or it can walk-out if the retainer is not put in place.

If you do not have the retainer, buy one if you want to keep the balance shaft belt on. Buy your water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt and front balance shaft seal.

You can do all this with motor still in the car, just jack, jackstands and time. Perhaps get a knowledgeable buddy that has done a timing belt job before, unless you have.

[BBuncky2]

haha k one grand as is!

nah i decided to save up for the parts and try it out myself. hopfully i can pull it off.

lol found a vid on david's farm on how to change the t belt and looks alright hopfully i can do it lol

That's the exact video that prompted me to start thinking about doing the job myself.

Davidsfarm is hilarious (because the guy is so genuine that I don't even think he realizes he's funny), and his other videos make for good entertainment and educational value.

[Lil' Whitie]

More than like it is the front balance shaft seal that needs to be replaced. It spins twice as fast as the crank, therefore potential for more wear or it can walk-out if the retainer is not put in place.

If you do not have the retainer, buy one if you want to keep the balance shaft belt on. Buy your water pump, timing belt, balance shaft belt and front balance shaft seal.

You can do all this with motor still in the car, just jack, jackstands and time. Perhaps get a knowledgeable buddy that has done a timing belt job before, unless you have.

is this also the counter shaft we are talking about too?

i finally got the car to a buddy's garage and we all looked at it and sure enough it is the counter shaft seal is out. been spraying oil all over the tbelt case.

one question tho. someone said that i need to pop the valve cover off to get the tbelt houseing off and when i do that i guess i need a new valcover gasket right? might as well should i should also do a valve adjustment becuse i can hear a slight ticking sound there. is there a DIY on how to do a valve adjustment here on this board? i trid to do a search but could not find.

apparently i left my hayes and chiltions manual at my gramps in st louis! looks like i have to buy a hayes book too! lol

will let you know how the progress is doing. tonight i'ma going to take it apart and get it ready for tmw when i hopfully get the parts

[Lil' Whitie]

well here is the updates

got all the parts and stuff. i had to pop the valvecover to get the timeing cover off and i found out there is oil in my plug hoes lol so new o rings here i come!

biggest problem we have is we can't get the crank pulley off. here what we tried

air impact wrench
electric impact wrench
breakerbar with a 8 foot 'cheater' bar on it

how we stopped the engine from craking is that i put the car in 5th gear and have my buddy stand on the brakes. problem is the clutch is slipping and we know we are really putting torqe on that bar.

hayes said to jam a screwdriver in the flywheel and i don't think that is a good idea. so i'm thinking about looking for a place to rent a honda crank pulley.

but in the meantime anyone got any ideas on how to get this off?


btw when i got the top timing cover off we noticed the timing belt is lose i mean lose. it had alot of play there and i'm happy that we are doing this. who knows how much longer that engine will last at that shape lol

[nostringz]

you should consider using hondabond which is a silicone sealant for metal on metal seals. you can use them on your sparkplug tube seal gaskets. i did. those new tube seals usually don't want to seal on the old motor.

[HondaFan81]

you should consider using hondabond which is a silicone sealant for metal on metal seals. you can use them on your sparkplug tube seal gaskets. i did. those new tube seals usually don't want to seal on the old motor.

Actually, I've never had problems with new OEM tube O-rings sealing. They do just fine. I put a lil oil on them and push them into place minding the sharp edges in that area and reassemble.