Rate my Engine!!! (JDM H22A)

[Losiracer2]

On a scale of 1-10, what would you say the engine's condition is...just curious..be honest...I'd prefer an honest opinion rather than a half assed one. And by these pics....would this signify anything to change or replace?

Here's some pics of the engine insides. I noticed this brownish color right after I took the VC off, but when i went to see what it was, it just rubbed right off w/ my towel i had. So it looks like a couple oil changes were forgotten, but hopefully it'll be solved w/ some fresh oil and then a quick drain. Or should I do something else?

Also, the guy I got the engine from said he didn't change the T-belt b/c it looked okay. The thing is, I kinda feel like I'm wasting it if I toss out this T-Belt, but its SO EASY to do it right now outta the car. The engine has about 40K on it by my estimates, so the belt should have another 50K on it left going by the 90K interval. What condition would you say its in? I didn't spot any cracks or whatnot on it so that's always a good sign.




^^there seems to be some sludge or something below the cams though..i'm kinda worried about that.

[foamypirate]

I'd give it around 7-7.5. That build up should come out with a few oil changes. Also, REPLACE the t-belt. Don't take a chance on your engine, even if it looks good. Just fork out the $40 dollars or so for a new OEM belt.

[rodriguezyadir]

the motor is a good swap....were did you get the grill from

[accord=inspire?]

his is the real g square

i would just support bliz and get the bilzgrill for 125 shipped

nice motor .... your car is getting nicer every month

[evil_demon_01]

I'd give it around 7-7.5. That build up should come out with a few oil changes. Also, REPLACE the t-belt. Don't take a chance on your engine, even if it looks good. Just fork out the $40 dollars or so for a new OEM belt.

X2 do the T-Belt now, For the price of an OEM belt, it will be worth doing it now and knowing its good for 100km's, rather than having to do it when it's in the car in another 50km's.
Engine looks OK, How many KM's on it?
Whipe off as much stuff as you can and even use a toothbrush (an old one of course . . .) to losen as much as you can, then do a oil change in a couple of hundred km's

Btw - Diddn't know you had planned on going H series

[Losiracer2]

I'd give it around 7-7.5. That build up should come out with a few oil changes. Also, REPLACE the t-belt. Don't take a chance on your engine, even if it looks good. Just fork out the $40 dollars or so for a new OEM belt.

Yeah, well my local Honda Dealer wants 84 dollars! But I think I'm just gonna order online via Majestic, it should be 52+shipping, I'm also getting the Water pump and balance belt. Everything looks CLEAN as can be, WAY cleaner underneath than my engine that's for sure.

the motor is a good swap....were did you get the grill from

Found it on a local car forum, guy was parting out a car that he actually bought from a CB7tuner member a little while back. So long story short, I walked away w/ a G square, JDM 2 piecers, Sunroof visor, and JDM 9293 fogs all in the same night that I did a 250 mile round trip drive to Tucson, AZ and back lol.

his is the real g square

i would just support bliz and get the bilzgrill for 125 shipped

nice motor .... your car is getting nicer every month

Thanks man, this engine sure is making me anxious! I can't wait to get it in.

X2 do the T-Belt now, For the price of an OEM belt, it will be worth doing it now and knowing its good for 100km's, rather than having to do it when it's in the car in another 50km's.
Engine looks OK, How many KM's on it?
Whipe off as much stuff as you can and even use a toothbrush (an old one of course . . .) to losen as much as you can, then do a oil change in a couple of hundred km's

Btw - Diddn't know you had planned on going H series

It has about 40K miles or 64K kilometers. Yeah I'm probably going to do the timing belt on it....i mean I already have the engine out, that makes things SO much easier so it would be wise to do so. Guess i'll keep this one as a spare lol. I originally was planning on just doing a cam on my F series and then slowly work up from there, but then I found this engine/trans combo on craigslist for DIRT CHEAP and I had to jump on it. So here I go, down the H22 road

[wed3k]

look at the exhaust valves and check for HEAVY carbon buildup. insufficient oil changes means premature valve seal wear. check the spark plugs for consistency.

[F22HB]

Compression test and leakdown will give you a better rating.

[Losiracer2]

look at the exhaust valves and check for HEAVY carbon buildup. insufficient oil changes means premature valve seal wear. check the spark plugs for consistency.

you think that's really from not doing oil changes enough? or is it just from crappy conventional oil? thats not what my rocker/cams looked like using synthetic oil. So you think after I put some Royal Purple in there it'll clean it up and add better additives to protect the parts? Or should i flush it with some engine treatment first?

[wed3k]

just use dino oil and change it every 1500 miles or so. fresh oil also help revitalize the rubber int he seals. ive seen castrol GTX clean up the jdm F20a motor in the project car within a few hundred miles.

[GangstaCB7]

I guess 7.1 outa 10. Wen I take off my VC everythithing looks bling bling Gold urs looks brownish orangie. IDK.

[Losiracer2]

just use dino oil and change it every 1500 miles or so. fresh oil also help revitalize the rubber int he seals. ive seen castrol GTX clean up the jdm F20a motor in the project car within a few hundred miles.

yeah i'm kinda unsure though...he said he had mobile 1 synthetic prior to his accident, isn't it bad to go synthetic, dino and then synthetic again? that messes w/ the seals somehow right?

[wed3k]

yeah i'm kinda unsure though...he said he had mobile 1 synthetic prior to his accident, isn't it bad to go synthetic, dino and then synthetic again? that messes w/ the seals somehow right?

true, id replace the front main and rear main just to be safe anyways. it sucks pulling transmissions off.

run synthetic.

[owequitit]

That buildup is all a sign of infrequent oil changes.

Everyone always says "JDM is automatically better because it has fewer miles" but the fact is that JDM is also much more likely to be neglected because they know they are getting a new car/engine in 60K miles anyway. My H22 put that thing to shame in terms of cleanliness when I got it.

I would clean off what you can, put a good quality conventional dino oil in it (I prefer GTX) and run a can of seafoam in the oil. Run it gently for about 50-100 miles, drain, refill and change the filter again. That should clean a lot of it out.

Honestly, it looks like it either went REALLY long between changes, or they used Pennzoil. Pennzoil likes to bronze like that if it isn't changed at exactly 3K miles, but the build up makes me think it was just neglected.

Also, the seafoam will help clean up the residues, but it won't fix any ring damage or any other wear damage caused by not changing the oil. Overall, though it should still be fairly healthy based on mileage.

As for the T-belt, you know the answer to that question. Pay $40 now, or pay $1200 when it breaks at 8,000... It is cheap insurance and you are being dumb if you don't change it all now.

I would also save yourself some money and just leave the balance belt off. It will save you about 3-5HP in the top end.

[Daheavyking]

I'd go with a 7.5.