Help! H23 IM swap problem

[mndude07]

I just swapped on a6 runners and a h23 plenum onto my car, the fuel system is fine, and the coolant system is fine, so I think its a vacuum problem.

What happens is when I start the car, it revs by itself between about 1 and 2000 rpms. I have vacuum lines 20 and 24 from the black box going to the two nipples on the rear of the plenum near the throttle body. Line 21 goes to the nipple on the throttle body. I have a vacuum line between the fuel pressure regulator and the nipple on the middle front on the plenum, and my IAB plate is connected to a nipple on the right side of the plenum, and the other nipple on the right side is capped off.

Now, when I remove line 21 from the throttle body, the idle goes smooth and steady, but pretty low, down to about 500 or so and my exhaust got pretty smokey, but based on the h23 plenum swap DIY on this site, line 21 is correct to be plugged in where it is.

Does anyone know what the deal is? I've gotta have this car running by Saturday help please!

[mndude07]

I had the tb bored by maxbore, and he sets the tps back to factory spec so that shouldn't be the problem either.

[Losiracer2]

make sure the black box doesn't have any leaks or any of the nipples are cracked.

[ceelooboob]

try to adjust the fitv on your new throttle body

[IAmTheNight]

Are you sure the IACV doesn't need to be cleaned (or better yet, replaced)? It can cause some frustrating idle problems when you do modifications.

[Cb7GHOST]

check the FITV on your newly acquired throttle body. and if you changed the eacv too, check it. its a good chance those things are the problem
does it go away when it warm up?

[mndude07]

I figured it out, with a suggestion from yeamans17. None of those things were a problem. All my vacuum lines were fine and the iacv and fitv are very much clean.

I loosened the tps and twisted it around while the engine was running, and that got rid of the erratic idle surge, but it was still idling at 2000 rpms.

Well that was due to the bored tb just sucking in so much damn air lol. So, I adjusted the idle speed screw and now it starts up to 1500, then immediately drops to 850 and stays there on idle, and I just test drove it and everything's working fine, except for some weird reason, I can't shift it out of park without putting a key in the shift lock release hole.

[Losiracer2]

I figured it out, with a suggestion from yeamans17. None of those things were a problem. All my vacuum lines were fine and the iacv and fitv are very much clean.

I loosened the tps and twisted it around while the engine was running, and that got rid of the erratic idle surge, but it was still idling at 2000 rpms.

Well that was due to the bored tb just sucking in so much damn air lol. So, I adjusted the idle speed screw and now it starts up to 1500, then immediately drops to 850 and stays there on idle, and I just test drove it and everything's working fine, except for some weird reason, I can't shift it out of park without putting a key in the shift lock release hole.

hmmmm, you might have the problem I just encounterd. My shift cable randomly came loose on the tranny side and when i removed the cover that gets you access to the cable underneath the trans, the 10mm bolt that's supposed to screw into the cable and secure it, just fell right out. The dumb techs didn't fold over those tabs that prevents the screw from backing itself out w/ vibrations. Once I fixed that, it shifts much better now. P, R, N, D4...etc, they all work fine.

[accordaffair]

put having to put a key in the hole means something else, check your brake switch and theres another switch under the console plastic by the shifter...can't remember what its called...

[Cb7GHOST]

shift lock solenoid