Bled the clutch line...and this happened

[Shadow1]

90 Accord 5spd:

problem: car wouldnt go into gear while running. but when the car was off it went into all gears with no problem.

i bled the clutch line and it finally went into gear while the car was on(if you havent found out by now this is a 5spd. lol.). but after i turned the car off and started it back up 5min later it didnt go into gear again while the car was running.


can someone please help me with this. i hate having my car sitting here like this.

[Leung]

i'd try and keep bleeding that slave cylinder as it doesn't sound like the cables are binding anywhere.

[Shadow1]

i'd try and keep bleeding that slave cylinder as it doesn't sound like the cables are binding anywhere.

yeah. i might try that tomorrow since i have off. whats the easiest way of bleeding the clutch? is there any way it can be done with one person?

[Leung]

theres no method i know of where only one person could bleed the clutch and pump the pedal at the same time.

[Shadow1]

one thing the car does is that when i start the car with it in gear it'll pull forward WHILE the clutch is in. and it'll even move forward while the car is starting.

[Leung]

hmm have you replaced your slave anytime? it could be failing not allowing your clutch to release. or it could be the T/O bearing.

[Shadow1]

hmm have you replaced your slave anytime? it could be failing not allowing your clutch to release. or it could be the T/O bearing.

i had a couple of people say it might be the T/O bearing too.


but im hoping its something that wont involve me taking off the tranny. lol.


but ill be bleeding the clutch line tomorrow tho and ill report back my findings.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Hydrolic clutch bleeding
This is just for your information. Feel free to do it like the book states.
When I replaced my master cylinder I had a hell of a time bleeding it.

(1) The first thing to remember is that sometimes it isn't your fault. I spend over a week trying to bleed my "new" master cylinder before getting pissed and putting the old one back on. Turns out the new one was defective and could not hold any pressure... It took me 10 seconds to bleed the "old one"

(2) Do not go buy a suction bleeder for brake lines (if you have one go ahead and try it) the reason i say this is because many aftermarket (and possibly OEM) Honda master cylinders have a floating hydraulic piston in them. What this means is that the little piston in it is not actually connected to the rod attached to the clutch pedal and when negative pressure is applied it sucks in and closes the valve preventing you from properly bleeding the system.

(3) The way I did it in 10 seconds was to buy a "suction gun" from an automotive store (costs like $15.00). It is basically a grease gun designed for liquids. Fill it up with brake fluid and with a couple feet of plastic tube attached to the end then turn it upside down and apply pressure till all the air is out and you are left with nothing but brake fluid. Apply the end of the plastic tubing to the nipple on the slave cylinder. Open the master cylinder reservoir and have a syringe or something handy to suck out the extra fluid. Make sure the clutch pedal is out (close to the chair). Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder (nipple the plastic is attached to) and apply pressure to the handle on the suction gun. Do this for a few moments removing fluid from the reservoir to prevent it from overflowing then have you or a friend close the bleeder valve (nipple) and feel the clutch. If it needs more pressure repeat. I did this for about 10 seconds then drove her around the block. Haven't had an issue in over 6 months.

Here is a picture of where the slave cylinder is and the bleeder valve (sorry if it is too big)



If anyone has anything to add let me know, and if you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

[Shadow1]

Hydrolic clutch bleeding
This is just for your information. Feel free to do it like the book states.
When I replaced my master cylinder I had a hell of a time bleeding it.

(1) The first thing to remember is that sometimes it isn't your fault. I spend over a week trying to bleed my "new" master cylinder before getting pissed and putting the old one back on. Turns out the new one was defective and could not hold any pressure... It took me 10 seconds to bleed the "old one"

(2) Do not go buy a suction bleeder for brake lines (if you have one go ahead and try it) the reason i say this is because many aftermarket (and possibly OEM) Honda master cylinders have a floating hydraulic piston in them. What this means is that the little piston in it is not actually connected to the rod attached to the clutch pedal and when negative pressure is applied it sucks in and closes the valve preventing you from properly bleeding the system.

(3) The way I did it in 10 seconds was to buy a "suction gun" from an automotive store (costs like $15.00). It is basically a grease gun designed for liquids. Fill it up with brake fluid and with a couple feet of plastic tube attached to the end then turn it upside down and apply pressure till all the air is out and you are left with nothing but brake fluid. Apply the end of the plastic tubing to the nipple on the slave cylinder. Open the master cylinder reservoir and have a syringe or something handy to suck out the extra fluid. Make sure the clutch pedal is out (close to the chair). Open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder (nipple the plastic is attached to) and apply pressure to the handle on the suction gun. Do this for a few moments removing fluid from the reservoir to prevent it from overflowing then have you or a friend close the bleeder valve (nipple) and feel the clutch. If it needs more pressure repeat. I did this for about 10 seconds then drove her around the block. Haven't had an issue in over 6 months.

Here is a picture of where the slave cylinder is and the bleeder valve (sorry if it is too big)



If anyone has anything to add let me know, and if you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

thanx for that info man. im going to try this out tomorrow too. how is the clutch pedal supposed to feel? is it supposed to feel firm or what? i only ask because i dont know much about 5spds. all the other cars ive had have been autos.

[Ghetto_CB7]

Pedal Feel

I wouldn't go by pedal feel as much as I would go by the distance the slave cylinder moves. If you do not see it move at least half an inch then you aren't done yet, or you have a problem.

[Leung]

any updates?

[Shadow1]

any updates?

not yet. im waiting for my friend to come over so he can help me with bleeding the clutch. but i talked to another friend of mine(one of the best honda mechanics here in RR) and he said that it could be the slave cylinder too. but yall will get updates later today


got any other suggestions? wheres the master cylinder? how hard is it to take out?

[Leung]

did you do a conversion or was the car manual from the factory?

the master cylinder is in the upper right corner of the engine bay when you're facing the car. basically when you're pumping the clutch pedal the master is on the otherside of the firewall. when i was pulling parts from a donar car at the PnP, it was a little weird getting to that part because you had to remove a nut and somethings from inside the cabin then come around to the engine bay to remove a few more things. basically i'm saying, i hope you have small hands and not huge ones like me.

[Shadow1]

it was manual from the factory. i might just attempt to do the bleeding myself. i dont feel like waiting till like 2hrs before i have to go into work. you think i can do it?

[Leung]

idk man.. that's one hell of a stretch trying to pump the slave while opening that valve at the same time. got a neighbor you could hold hostage for a while?

i thought you said in an earlier post that you were off today?