DIY request on battery relocation

[rvaldez0781]

ok guys this is how its done i ran a 2awg to the distribution block and left all the other wires the same put a rubber mat under neither the battery and drilled two holes in the trunk and used a battery tire down from schucks and whala
i bolted my neg to the trunk wall near the jack location just fond a whole and used a bolt washer and nut

10 ft of 2awg from home depot 45$
battery tie down 10$
blood sweat and tears priceless

much cheaper then the online ones plus just as good but if you must have a box 15$ at schucks

oh and i ran it to the block and the normal wire from the block to the starter and never had a problem no heating of the block and no shorts or arcs plus my battery is just fine and hasnt exploded either

I'm gonna do this when i get an optima battery, cuz in AZ it can easily get to 150degrees in the car... I dont wanna risk it...

[mndude07]

Why are people using distribution blocks? It doesn't make any sense to me.

[carps_accord]

so basically i could just rout 2g from my existing posi cable and run it back to my trunk, secure my battery and setup my ground and it should work fine?....and i'm also assuming there is a vent in our trunks on both sides the might be adequate to vent any vapors

[xkjnboix]

wouldnt u come out cheaper buying the wire at an audio store

[AK-49-CB7]

Why are people using distribution blocks? It doesn't make any sense to me.

the reason i use my block is because when you have you battery in the normal postion (under the hood) the posi goes to the distribution block so that is supplies power to everything vs. going straight to starter yes if you double it back to the block it will supply it but y make the extra step when you can just use the same wire and less time consuming just run it to the block and strap it down and make it easy

so basically i could just rout 2g from my existing posi cable and run it back to my trunk, secure my battery and setup my ground and it should work fine?....and i'm also assuming there is a vent in our trunks on both sides the might be adequate to vent any vapors

yes you have two positive pressure vents the weird looking cheese graders that have a rubber flap they have vented it fine for me and i have had this setup for about 5 months now

wouldnt u come out cheaper buying the wire at an audio store

the wire at an audio store is gonna be a braided wire where as the 2awg it a thicker solid copper wire its thick copper strands that you need cause with 2g audio wire the wire will get hot because of the amount of energy passing through it the 2awg wont heat because the diameter of the individual copper wires are sufficiant enough to pass the amount of energy
i say go to lowes or homedepot and pick up some 2awg and be safe

[Flatline]

Im going bump this instead of making another thread.

I just move my battery to the trunk. i used 2 awg wire from an old set of really long jumper cables. I used my old battery positive wire as a ground on a bolt under the taillight. That worked fine the car started, was charging 13.8 as usual.

I drive out to pick my girl up literally two streets over, and come back without trouble. When i go to drive her back to work, the motor is cranking a little slow. Not seriously slow but noticeably, but it still started fine. The ALT was putting out 11.9-12.9 but no more and no load at all.

Came back and checked all my connections and everything seems fine. waited a few hours and went to get her again and it was charging at 13.3 and slowly but steadily went down to the 11.9-12.5 range.

I went to move my car out of the drive way this morning and it was at 11.5 off and 12.8 charging. im not sure if i have a draw on the battery somewhere, or if the ALT is taking a shit again. i have gone through 4 alternators in the past few months because advance sell crap and didn't have a denso anywhere for me.

im going to go over my connections again and see if anything is wrong and im going to get a load test at advance and see if they find anything wrong with the alt. hopefully it is the alt that has the draw in it. had that happen before. I really hate electrical troubleshooting.

[Shadow1]

dont worry. i hate trouble shooting on electrical stuff on the cb too. lmao.


you got any pics of your set up?

[Flatline]

dont worry. i hate trouble shooting on electrical stuff on the cb too. lmao.


you got any pics of your set up?

Haha, don't we all. I can do it. I just don't have the patience at the moment.
But i went to the parts store to get a load test. It tested good but had a 4.91 on the drain test. The paper said "suspect" but it was charging at 13.8 again while he was in the trunk so im thinking it has something to do with the cables at the battery. as soon as we were done it was charging at 12~ again.

I fuckin knew it was going to charge fine so i couldn't get a replacement ALT.

So how does one fry an ALT without hurting anything else? I want to get i warrantied because it has been givin me trouble since day 1.

an ill get pics up after i clean everything up a bit. have to tuck a few wires and clean up the battery spot in the bay. It was soooo gross under there.

[Flatline]

Well it looks like i got it all fixed no thanks to you bastards.....

I would up getting the ALT warrantied and it didn't fix the problem. the Volts were more consistent but still low.

So i had some slack on the battery cable. Cut that off.
Cut both ends of the Alt - Fusebox cable and ran a 6 (i think) instead.
I also put in an open battery tray instead of just setting it on a piece of wood in the trunk and strapping it down.

Viola. Has anyone heard anything about batteries dying while on concrete floors? I wonder if the same goes for wood. Or i had a draw in the Alt- FB cable.


Ill get some pics up first chance i get.

[rvaldez0781]

Viola. Has anyone heard anything about batteries dying while on concrete floors? I wonder if the same goes for wood. Or i had a draw in the Alt- FB cable.


Ill get some pics up first chance i get.

yes

wood shouldnt drain you battery. i say this because it is recommended to lift your battery off of a concrete floor and setting it on a 2x4 or such.

[IridiumCore]

you want it you got it

I bought a Taylor battery relocation kit for 80 beans. It came with a battery tray and tiw down, but this is a daily driver, and I didn't want to risk having a metal lawn chair be the cause of my death. So I went to napa and for 10 beans I bought a Marine battery box.

The kti comes with:
new positive wire with a terminal
New Negative wire with a terminal and an eyelit.
Battery tray and tie down
And a couple more eyelits and bolts and such.

I stripped the end of the positive wire and crimped on the new eyelit, and then had to fab up a new positive lead from my fuse box to the starter. Not hard at all. I just spliced together the existing lead from the fuse box to an extra wire I had laying around with an eyelit already attached. (the same gauge of course).

Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the splice...but you get the gist.



This is the new positive lead and the spliced fuse box lead sharing the same jacket to the starter.


This is where she sits neatly in my trunk, in the marine box.


This is where the negative wire is bolted to. If you look under your tailight, there is a plastic plug...that is covering the nut and stud I used for my ground. About an inch or two above that I cut a hole for the negative wire to slide through so it didn't have any crazy bends and kinks in it.

I ran the positive wire behind the side liner, and if you pull back the side liner, and then pull back the seat (I removed the top of the seat for better access), you will see a wire harness for the taillights. I just followed that harness all the way to here:

That's the ecu plate, and there was actually already a plastic plug covering a perfect sized hole. I drilled a hole through the plug, fed the positive wire through it, and plugged up the hole.

The plug fell out, so now when I start my car I can hear it from under the dash lol.

And now you have no more battery in the front

Dude what happened to your cruise control?

[Madpol]

so would something like this...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batte...Q5fAccessories

OR this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...Q5fAccessories

be ok for the relocation?

other wise im paying about $30-$35 per meter of wire in NewZealand plus the sost of the eyelets and terminal clamps

[nate'sCB7]

Bumping this because all the info is here,

except for details on how to actually mount the battery box in the trunk.

And pictures are a plus!

[Accrdwgnguy]

Bumping this because all the info is here,

except for details on how to actually mount the battery box in the trunk.

And pictures are a plus!

Drill into the floor and bolt it down. This isn't rocket science.

[nate'sCB7]

Drill into the floor and bolt it down. This isn't rocket science.

Well of course its not.
I just couldnt mentally picture it.