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some people say u can run 4ga, decided to run 2ga(sound system, hids, etc)
u'll need good 8-10 feet of the wire mine i took it from a mercedes sl230
u can use any europan battery wire (has battery in the back of course)
FIRST
start throwing ground wires: tranny to case, block to case head to case(at least have 2)
the run the wire (DO NOT PLUG ANYTHING YET)
make the battery mounting location
for the ground in the battery side, i used the hole where the spare goes, its already threaded, and also used the FACTORY GROUND CABLE
as some can see some steps might be backwards, i did it this way, so the people that need to be running to the store, in the middle of the procees cna go without any problems
NOW
put the battery in the back, conect the negative side,
remove all attery power and ground wires from the batt, remove old battery holder
connect 2ga wire to starter and use some 4ga wire and trace from the starter to the fuse box tighten everything up, make sure that the 2ga wire does NOT touch the starter solenoid, tape exposing wire, and start
I still have a spare, so what I did (an a couple other people on here), is just connect the ground to the bumper nut underneith the passenger side taillight.
There is actually a hole already there lol. I just enlarged ita bit so the wire wouldn't kink
Maple50175 - you're annoying =P
Brandoncb7 - I don't mean to come across like an ass but I see why you irritate Aaron now.
JoshM - Crotch rocket = chick magnet.
I bought a Taylor battery relocation kit for 80 beans. It came with a battery tray and tiw down, but this is a daily driver, and I didn't want to risk having a metal lawn chair be the cause of my death. So I went to napa and for 10 beans I bought a Marine battery box.
The kti comes with:
new positive wire with a terminal
New Negative wire with a terminal and an eyelit.
Battery tray and tie down
And a couple more eyelits and bolts and such.
I stripped the end of the positive wire and crimped on the new eyelit, and then had to fab up a new positive lead from my fuse box to the starter. Not hard at all. I just spliced together the existing lead from the fuse box to an extra wire I had laying around with an eyelit already attached. (the same gauge of course).
Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the splice...but you get the gist.
This is the new positive lead and the spliced fuse box lead sharing the same jacket to the starter.
This is where she sits neatly in my trunk, in the marine box.
This is where the negative wire is bolted to. If you look under your tailight, there is a plastic plug...that is covering the nut and stud I used for my ground. About an inch or two above that I cut a hole for the negative wire to slide through so it didn't have any crazy bends and kinks in it.
I ran the positive wire behind the side liner, and if you pull back the side liner, and then pull back the seat (I removed the top of the seat for better access), you will see a wire harness for the taillights. I just followed that harness all the way to here:
That's the ecu plate, and there was actually already a plastic plug covering a perfect sized hole. I drilled a hole through the plug, fed the positive wire through it, and plugged up the hole.
The plug fell out, so now when I start my car I can hear it from under the dash lol.
Maple50175 - you're annoying =P
Brandoncb7 - I don't mean to come across like an ass but I see why you irritate Aaron now.
JoshM - Crotch rocket = chick magnet.
I have a local performance shop down the road that orders from major companies. I'm sure it'd be relativly the same price if not cheaper if you bought it online.
Summit and Taylor make the two popular kits. I'm sure there are hundreds out there
ill be doing this within the next few days. i have to redo all of my wiring for the battery anyway. the terminals dont stay still like they're supposed to. my trunk is stripped anyway so it wont be too hard finding a sport to drill some holes for a battery tie down. ill look around for a box to have the battery in too.
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