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    Attention ALL trunk battery relocator members

    I was curious if anyone felt a power loss starting the car with their battery converted to the trunk. I have a AVIC so a voltage meter is built in. It used to run around 13-14 volts until I threw the battery back there. It was staying at a constant 12.6 while driving.

    I found that you need a washer behind the ground to help in charging. I didnt put it the first time but when I did throw the washer on, it did increase the charge a lil better. That and it helps when the car is vibrating, preventing it from getting loose.

    However, my starts feel a little weaker. Almost like a battery dying. I know it makes sense it would be slower since its a longer cord from the starter to the battery. I am using a 2 gauge kit.

    Has anyone experienced these symptoms as well?
    Would an upgraded alternator up the cracking?
    What about a ground kit?

    Any input is appreciated. Still monitoring its status. So far a better charge with the washer. Any advice?


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    #2
    12.6 with vehicle is running? its probably running off the battery.
    also check the voltage from the source and then check it from the starter terminal. if the wire has lots of resistance than it would show a lower voltage at the starter.

    i hope i got that right, im learning starting and charging systems at school right now :o
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      #3
      I know its not that long of a distance from the trunk to the engine bay, and I know most amps still read the same voltage as the battery. I could say it has a slight voltage drop, which is what wed3k is relating to as the resistance. VD takes into account the resistance of the wire and the distance. Usually a bigger wire is needed to make up for the distance it has to travel.

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        #4
        Make sure your connections are all very good and that especialy your ground is bolted down to a clean location on the chassis where there isn't paint or anything.

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          #5
          Where did you wire the power cable into?
          Also did you upgrade your alternator wire at the same time?


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            #6
            What gauge wire are you running? I have mine in the trunk, but voltage is well over 13.0 once the car is started and running according to the E8.
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              #7
              Originally posted by wed3k View Post
              12.6 with vehicle is running? its probably running off the battery.
              also check the voltage from the source and then check it from the starter terminal. if the wire has lots of resistance than it would show a lower voltage at the starter.

              i hope i got that right, im learning starting and charging systems at school right now :o
              While running, probably 12.6-13.1 @ the most. I used to hit 14 prior to the relocation. I will check it from the source and the starter.

              Originally posted by bagoon316 View Post
              I know its not that long of a distance from the trunk to the engine bay, and I know most amps still read the same voltage as the battery. I could say it has a slight voltage drop, which is what wed3k is relating to as the resistance. VD takes into account the resistance of the wire and the distance. Usually a bigger wire is needed to make up for the distance it has to travel.
              So you are saying I need to run a 0 gauge instead??? The battery relocation kit had 2 gauge. I think all that I seen on ebay were 2 gauge wires.

              Originally posted by F22HB View Post
              Make sure your connections are all very good and that especialy your ground is bolted down to a clean location on the chassis where there isn't paint or anything.
              Yes I sanded it down to bare metal. I'm using one of the filler panel garnish bolts underneath the outer corner tail light.

              Originally posted by evil_demon_01 View Post
              Where did you wire the power cable into?
              Also did you upgrade your alternator wire at the same time?
              Im not quite sure I got your question clearly but I wired the positive from the starter to the battery. No I didnt upgrade the alternator but I was curious if that would be a solution to the problem as stated on the opening post. Do I have to upgrade my wire gauge on the alternator?

              Originally posted by chessboxer View Post
              What gauge wire are you running? I have mine in the trunk, but voltage is well over 13.0 once the car is started and running according to the E8.
              I am running a 2 gauge ground and positive. Could the fact that my relocation throw my AVIC voltage meter off?

              Im going to do some more testing tomorrow. We will see what happens. Again, a weaker start. I want to solve this solution without having to convert my battery back to the front.

              Thanks to all who responded. Much appreciated.
              Please more feedback. This is helping me a bunch. I love this forum.


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                #8
                Check all your grounds. I personally grounded mine in the trunk and it does fine. No problems.
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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 12gage View Post
                  Check all your grounds. I personally grounded mine in the trunk and it does fine. No problems.
                  What did you ground it too? Where did you ground it as well? Does your car sound like it struggles to start a lil?

                  Thanks.
                  Ant


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                    #10
                    i would just go hit up a stereo shop and pick up some 0 gauge to run the power, and make sure you sanded all of the paint off of the ground under the washer, make sure its contacting properly, and make sure all the terminals and stuff are clean.
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                      #11
                      Originally posted by bmxfelon420 View Post
                      i would just go hit up a stereo shop and pick up some 0 gauge to run the power, and make sure you sanded all of the paint off of the ground under the washer, make sure its contacting properly, and make sure all the terminals and stuff are clean.
                      Do you honestly thing that a 0 gauge is safe? I don't want any "surging" to happen. Anyone using 0 gauge???


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                        #12
                        Originally posted by jdm_inspired View Post
                        What did you ground it too? Where did you ground it as well? Does your car sound like it struggles to start a lil?

                        Thanks.
                        Ant
                        I took the carpet out of my trunk. I have my battery mounted to the spare tire hole. the negative cable runs about 2 feet to the right of it theres a hole in the trunk base that i sanded and found a bolt for, works fine, starts fine, no fluxuations, the only downside is that my whole trunk is starting to corrode I just started my wire tuck and went crazy, as you can see in my sig lol.

                        edit: I believe i used 2 gauge.
                        Last edited by 12gage; 06-09-2008, 10:40 AM.
                        Wife: "Why do you get G power platinum and i only get V power?"
                        Me:"Cause i have the high compression 93 octane only H22 and you have the bullet proof F22."
                        Wife:........................"But yours are prettier"

                        ---------------------------------------------------
                        Wife:Baby, not everybody wants to do the 93 conversion"
                        Me:YES THEY DO, THEY JUST DON'T KNOW IT YET.


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                          #13
                          Theres one thing I DO remember. When I removed the negative from the engine bay, I remember a 2 gauge being connected to the alternator and a 8 gauge wire connected to a hole below one of the fender bolts. Does it need to be grounded in 2 locations???


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                          93 'til infinity

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                            #14
                            crap does that mean my 4 guage power/ground cable not big enough to carry the volt/amp? btw I have my battery in the trunk as well, and most often get a blinking battery light while waiting at a red light, as soon as I am driving the battery go away.
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                              #15
                              one thing i'd do is make sure that when the wire is running foward that those other grounds that are supposed to be connected are still hooked to your main wire running back to the battery. Voltage fluctuations/weak starts are often because all of your grounds arent hooked up.
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