the fix the a/c thread...

[FishyMan]

so i am thinking bout really fixing the a/c....

i have to first diagnose the problem, i have a 90 ex, and the a/c is not cold. it has wierd type of smell too.

at the same time, i notice a 91 lx parting out, should i pick up some of his stuffs? or will that be just a waste of time? and waste of money?

i remember that my a/c compressor is hashed, but anything else, i don't know. i dont' know if other things could be broken too, or if the llines have a leak. i know that perhaps i should go to the shop and have them charge it and see, but i don't like the fact that if i already know the compressor is hashed, and have them charge just to tell me that, would be just wasting money.

i guess i am trying to do all i can before taking it to the shop, can someone help me? thanks..


can someone point me to the resources so i can research the a/c system? maybe what manual i should buy or what not?


thanks..

[i_love_cb7]

Lots of posts here on a/c, most didn't solve the problem just telling those with a/c to take it to the pros.
I would try to find one of those gages that tell u if ur R12 is low. ( i think u can find them in the U.S , i, myself live in canada and i can't find one so, i am just waitting for the winter to come frist.) If the R12 IS low u need to retrofit it to r134a or this :duracool 12 ( new thing but maybe EASY to do it urself)

If u know for sure ur a/c compressor is hashed then replacing it can fix ur problem. the a/c will not work without it..

I am going to try the new duracool 12 stuff and i THINK it can be used with the old r12. when retrofiting to r134a u HAVE TO take out all the old r12, meaning taking it to the pros cuz they got the macine to do the job.....

thats all i can think of for now. lets keep this thread going, i think most of us want to fix it.

[FishyMan]

i think i would rather replace the whole dang thing... i talked to almost everyone and they suggested so, i only have 78k on this baby, and i think it's gonna last a while.. maybe i'll stop the aesthetic thing for now like ambers, etc, etc, just make it a nice daily driver.

i don't want to dump money on just one piece and have another piece hash up...

first i need experience i guess, tools, manuals. i am thinking i will remove the old a/c system. i honestly dunno if a noob like me can do it or not, but what is experience if i never touch it???..

anybody can recommend some useful manuals or links or pics that will help me??

i will start by picking up a haynes manual, god i keep procrastinating.. does anyone know that if i order from amazon.com or etc, that they ship it new? or do they just call the local border or whatever and ship via that way?

thanks..

[xScott]

Do you still have R12 in your lines?

If you do, dont blow it. Its extreamly expensive. Either rent an evecautor, or take it somewhere to have it evecuated.

If you dont, and like you said, your Compressor is shot, then replace it. Speaking of which, is you compressor even turning on?

If your not sure, then turn on the A/C and start feeling your A/C lines. The High pressure line coming off the compressor should be hot as hell, and the low pressure should be uber cold. If you dont have any temp on either side, then your empty.

Check that out, and get back to us.

A/C really isnt as hard as everybody makes it out too be. And no, you dont have to replace everything. Shops say that to get more money out of you. It is possible to diagnois AC problems, it just takes some time. Mostly feeling of lines and stuff.

In case your wondering how I know all this, well, I went to Votech for a semester for AutoTech, and it just happened to be the A/C and Heating semester. I did drop out after the 1st semester though (career change, I dont want to fix other peoples problems for the rest of my life. plus the automotive industry dosent pay that well)

[FishyMan]

thank you very much

will the haynes show where the lines are?.. i see the tire valves of the line ?? i think, but ya ill get the haynes and try then get back to everyone, thanks

i've heard that if one thing goes other thigns will as well, i also heard someoen tell me most of the time teh evap will leak and etc.. but what do i know.. thanks for the words of hope, ive been 2 years w/o a/c and saving slowly and surely... and now finally i can attempt it.

[xScott]

The compressor is actually towards the bottom of the engine bay. Usually the high line has the bigger plug thing on it. Its also the one going towards the condensor (in front of the radiator.)

[i_love_cb7]

i think the high end will have a red cap on it and the low end is a white cap.

O yeah i going to try the duracool 12 thingy also because the gas atoms are bigger and if u do have a leak ( most likey cuz it is made to not let any r12 out) the duracool 12 may stop it.

Is there any other way of checking if the compressor works? i know for sure the fan is not turning on all fuse r good.

[FishyMan]

just thought i'd bump this up.. hmm.. so much dilemnas in life that stray me away, contemplating if i should invest it in fixing the car, or bolt out.....

anyhow.. the book (haynes) is coming in, so im sure that will help me alot visually with things..

car is nearing 80k, so i want to do an oil change, tranny flush and change, and what not... hopefully the book will help, but main thing is the a/c so i can really be more attached to it..


4 no a/c w/ heavy rain

[ACCORDianate]

Purge/evacuate/reclaim/recover the old R12, added 4oz of conditioning oil, add 2 cans of R134a, and thats it. Cold, cold a/c.

[FishyMan]

so i should charge it up w/ r134a + the oil for the compressor?

where can i get the oil and fittings?



so the main thing now is to rid the r12, and the oem compressor and what not should work? thanks..

[ACCORDianate]

I still have my original compressor in the car. It seems to work just fine with the R134. The thermometer in my center dash vent regularly reads 40 degrees with the a/c on.

[FishyMan]

k.. winter is finally here, just really busy and life took a different turn ... was not able to get to the things i wanted to do, but looks like during winter i can get back to attempting to fix a/c?

i want some honest opinions regarding this car, if its worth it. i borrowed the haynes book while back, but still lacked experience and time. i will reborrow it and plunge into the a/c.

i want to know if i should invest into the car anymore or just ride it out as long as i can. i love my cb7 even though.


it has 80k, and during winter break i can do a whole lot of maintenance as i can devote a lot more time to it.



let me know what you guys think. i need the a/c, cuz when it rains its really really foggy and bad.. thanks..

any tips pointers or links to pics i can print out? and what not?

[FishyMan]

bump.. okay i was pressing on one of the gauges near the 'condensor'? by the radiator. and it had a very faint hiss...

our fam is remodeling the kitchen during this winter time, so i have not goten to it yet =I.. man i wish time would turn back...

so should i try to add 4OZ conditioning oil (can i pick it up at checkers'?) and 2 cans of r134a to the compressor? what procedures and what not should i do? get rid of the r12 and attempt to put r134a in compressor and go from there?

i am still trying to learn and locate things, the haynes manual was sold out at borders >:| and i am just doing search when i have time. any diagrams to locate things? kinda difficults for the noob.. thanks..

[onsoku]

same problemo! i know how ya feel...

FishyMan, glad to see another fellow 808 cb7 enthusiast. You got a rare jewel there huh? 80k... I've had a 90 ex for about 5 years til it died. Now I have a 92 lx I'm fixing up!

As for your problem, I know exactly how you feel! Gotta wipe your damn windows when it rains hard at every stoplight! Everyone thinks your crazy! It sucks... I haven't had a/c in my car til about a couple of days ago! I've just converted my cb7 from r12 to r134a. Your a/c doesn't really sound like its broken to me, just empty like mines was.

Heres what YOU can do...

1) Check the current low-pressure line (in front of radiator, facing car; covered with thermal wrap, has white cap) for visible leaks, breaks, corrosion. You can follow that line along to the condenser and hi-pressure line (near reservoir, going vertical) in the right bottom corner of the engine bay and also check for problems there. Like cb7deathride said, the lines of low-pressure should be cold and hi-pressure, hot (when running a/c). Theres also a reservoir you can check (while a/c is running) in that corner, that has a glass porthole. Greener the better. Shouldnt be empty, foamy or white. That means you have no refrigerant.

2) Assuming you have no other problems, take it to a Honda dealer (or someone you can trust [i went with honda windward]) and ask them to only evacuate/empty your a/c system. That way you wont have any old r12 and oil contaminating your new r134a and oil.

3) If there are still no other problems, your last stop should be napa carquest, or checkers or some auto store. Get the r134a conversion kit (comes with hosing connection, 2 oz. starter oil and r134a refrigerant, new fittings [no modding needed], and new color caps.) AND an additional can of r134a refrigerant. You may want to invest in an a/c pressure gauge also.

4) Follow directions on kit CAREFULLY! Basically after fitting the... er, new r134a fittings and shaking the cans, you hook up to the low-pressure port; after the car is started and a/c is on full blast, puncture the can with the valve stem and re-open. Shake the can, it should get cold and empty within a minute or two. reverse process to remove can when empty. Repeat process with addtional r134a refrigerant. Be careful not to overcharge! Use gauge to measure. If you put too much it will cause leaks or you'll over strain the compressor with extra oil/liquid/pressure. I believe normal is about 45 psi on low-pressure end.

TOTAL COST: $40

Hope that helps! SORRY, no pics!

[accordaffair]

if you're low on refridgerant the compressor won't come on at all, i had my mechanic convert my r12, check for leaks, then refill with r134 for $40.