Help! RPM's dropped to zero and died, now the car won't start

[RustBucket93]

Did some more testing.

Did some tests that my repair CD suggested. Here's what it said to do, and what I found.

Ignition coil power source- disconnect ignition coil primary leads. Turn ignition on. Using voltmeter, check voltage between ground and black/yellow wire terminal of ignition coil harness. Battery voltage should be present.

There are 2 wires on the harness, a thick yellow one, and a skinny black with yellow stripe. Battery voltage was present on the thick yellow one but not the skinny black/white one.

Igniter power source- Turn ignition off. Disconnect harness connector at distributor. Turn ignition on. Using voltmeter, check for battery voltage between ground and black/yellow wire between ignition and harness connector.

Now here is where I'm sorta confused. Which connector exactly do they mean? There are 2 connectors close by....one multi connector one, and one 2 prong connector. I tested both, and found voltage on the thicker wire of the 2 prong connector (forgot which color) and voltage, although 2 volts lower than battery voltage, on the yellow with green stripe wire on the multi connector.


Ignition coil resistance- Remove primary and secondary leads from ignition coil. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between primary terminals A and C of ignition coil. Resistance should be .6 to .8 at room temperature.

Here is a pic of the terminals

click to see

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mytoyo...PLMuBBKnRls0In


My meter beeped for continuity and read .01. So does this mean it is bad? I probed around and found .8 on some other terminals, but I don't know what that means.

Check resistance between terminals B and D of ignition coil (tach circuit). Resistance should be about 2090-2310 ohms at room temperature.

I got NOTHING.

Check secondary resistance between terminals A and secondary output terminal (coil tower). Resistance should be 14,400-21,600. Check for continuity between terminals A and B. Continuity should exist. If readings are not within specification, replace coil.

I got 18.32k. And had continuity.

So what does all this mean? Bad coil? I might go to AutoZone and test out a new one they have and see what specs I get.

[TampaLou]

FYI

Autozone can test both the ignitor and the coil. I think it's the ignitor

[91accord4door]

hey the coil and ignitor are the same thing silly. and yes sounds like the coil.

[RustBucket93]

No they are not the same thing. The coil is an external device and the ignitor is inside the distributor.

[91accord4door]

coil on my car is inside the dist.........i just replaced it. the 90-91 accords have an internal coil. the 92-93 accords have an external coil wich is a wire. the 90-91 have a little box inside the dist. so your saying my car has a coil and a ignitor? lol oh ya my cars a 91 i have an internal coil. trust me there the same thing.

[TampaLou]

Clarification



A=Ignitor also know as the ignition module
Coil=Coil

Two seperate however connected parts.

[RustBucket93]

I have a 1993 Accord. I never said what YOUR CAR HAD. IN MY CAR, the COIL resides OUTSIDE of the distributor. The IGNITER resides INSIDE of the distributor. They are 2 different parts.


Quote from my repair manual

"Battery voltage is supplied through the ignition switch to ignition coil and igniter unit. ECM triggers igniter unit based upon signals from TDC, CRANK, and or CYL and other sensors. High voltage from ignition coil is distributed to each spark plug by distributor."


Ignitor.....$90.99

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=194&PTSet=C




Coil.....$63.88

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...pe=190&PTSet=C

[TampaLou]

All good

Exactly, let us know if that fixed it. I'm replacing my ignitor too

[RustBucket93]

Had some good luck last night. I was at a friends house at a party. We decided to make a run for White Castles :barf: and we go out in the parking lot and one of my friends gets into an Accord just like mine......hmmmm.... so I find out it is a 1993, and i look under the hood and it's got the same distributor/coil setup as mine.....so I asked her to come over tomorrow and I would swap her good parts for my bad parts.

So I began swapping parts, starting with the part I figured was bad, the coil. Installed it, and it still wouldn't fire. Next up, the igniter. I noticed her igniter was a different make than mine, and shaped a little differently. Installed it, and she fired right up! Yeeeeehaaaaw! That saved me $70 that I would have wasted on a coil. I love having friends!

Now I just have to wait until payday to buy a new igniter. They go for about $75-$90 bucks at the parts stores. I'll call around and find the best deal!


Man, am I relieved! 308k and she's keeps on tickin! :kewl:

[Cactus]

Congrats on getting your baby up and running again!

[kidd262]

What a CB7 for.

To help each other man!!!