valves leaking

[PR CB7]

well i pulled yesterday an a1 from the JY and since i worked there i took the best f series engine there where in the yard (most where fucked up) also the people that put the car there, told me that they'd started the car before processing it so in other words the engine was good, (plus it was wrecked on the side)

anyway i pulled the motor and started putting seals and shit, all gaskets, cleaned it up real good, swaped the oil baffle from the a6, also the cam, after i did the whole timing belt on it, i put some WD-40, through the intake ports and spined the engine, come to notice, that when they're in the compression cycle, the WD-40 starts bubbling in other words, the valves are not closing fully,
i didnt changed the HG cuz i didint have a TORQUE WRENCH at the time so, i dont know how the inside looks,

im guessing it could be 2 things
1 the valve seats are dirty or rusty
2 since it had the a1 cam after putting th a6 the cam doesnt let them close since they are not adjusted

what u guys think

[wed3k]

both are possibilities, id check the valve lash first before digging into the valve train.

[PR CB7]

is not vavle lash guys

i decided to open the motor up,

everything looks good, except the valve seats, they had dirt, and carbon,

i'll probably have the machine shop put the a6 springs and have a port and polish done

how much would a machine shop charge for something like that?
thats for the people that have had that done, i know machine shops, prices vary, but i would like to know like something in between of how am i gonna spend

[wed3k]

the springs shouldnt be extra but they'll charge you for new valve stem seals. it is also recommended that you get it surfaced while it is off anyways.

we charge 185 for a valve job, 55 for a surface and start at 500 for a port/polish. with a stock block and cams i wouldnt do much. just take the casting off and fluff the intake. so upgrade to the A6 or H23 manifold.