2 end pistons/rods installed but crankshaft aint turning

[jyoungblood87]

just the title says i installed the end pistons... after i torqued the rods down, i tried to turn the crank by hand but the crank isnt turning... but when the bolts are just tighten(not torqued) the crank can turn... i used 35ft lb or torque on the rod bolts... i have an F22a motor...the connecting rod bearing are honda bearing, straight from the dealer ship...they are same as the original bearings...

my buddy suggested that i should install all four pistons first before torquing the rods, then try turning the crank...but says its a wierd problem...

need help ppl...let me kno u guys or gals need pics or vid...

[C91BLX7]

I don't really understand what your doing/trying to do.

[HondaFan81]

You lack information. Be more specific on what components you are using aftermarket or stock. How do you know the torque specs you are using are proper?

By end pistons you mean cylinder # 1 and 4. Since you fail to indicate, I'll assume that with crank installed and piston/rod assy in cylinders # 2 & 3 installed, the crank turns over fine. This would indicate your main bearings and # 2 & 3 rod bearings seem fine.

Therefore, something is obviously wrong with the # 3 & 4 rod bearing and/or corresponding crank rod journals. I would plasti-gage both and share with us the results. I would also inspect the crank rod journals for these both for any nicks, etc. I also assume you aligned the rod bearings correctly.

[jyoungblood87]

i just installed pistons 1 and 4...
2 and 3 are not installed yet...im using wiseco pistons with cat H-beam rods...the rod journals are not scratch, they are polished... so its just the two pistons installed on the crank as of now, but having the issues with....on the manual that came with the rods, it told me to torque the arp bolts to 65ft lb...i tried that and the crank wont turn...then in the haynes manual it said to use 35ft lb...i tried that and it still didnt work...i havent use pastigage yet though...

[C91BLX7]

i just installed pistons 1 and 4...
2 and 3 are not installed yet...im using wiseco pistons with cat H-beam rods...the rod journals are not scratch, they are polished... so its just the two pistons installed on the crank as of now, but having the issues with....on the manual that came with the rods, it told me to torque the arp bolts to 65ft lb...i tried that and the crank wont turn...then in the haynes manual it said to use 35ft lb...i tried that and it still didnt work...i havent use pastigage yet though...

Did you lube the journals?

[jyoungblood87]

i lubed the bearing with assembly lube...should i have put a handful of lube on the journals themselves???but imma try that also...thx...


anymore suggestions...

[d112crzy]

so....you didn't plastigauge at all?

sounds like a smart way to fuck another motor up.

[foamypirate]

anymore suggestions...

Take it to a machine shop and have them build it. It sounds like you have no idea what you're doing.

[HondaFan81]

i just installed pistons 1 and 4...
2 and 3 are not installed yet...im using wiseco pistons with cat H-beam rods...the rod journals are not scratch, they are polished... so its just the two pistons installed on the crank as of now, but having the issues with....on the manual that came with the rods, it told me to torque the arp bolts to 65ft lb...i tried that and the crank wont turn...then in the haynes manual it said to use 35ft lb...i tried that and it still didnt work...i havent use pastigage yet though...

This just proves my point, that you're asking questions without providing enough information. Add everything relevant you can think of.

Anyhow, go with your ARP torque specs since you have aftermarket components (which you did not mention before) and do NOT go with Haynes as it is stock specs.

Since you did not have 2 or 3 cyl piston/rod assy installed, and get crank bindage with 1 & 4 cyl piston/rod assy installed.

1) With no piston/rod assy installed, does the crank turn?

2) Do you have the main girdle/bearing caps installed with main bearings?

3) You should have plasti-gage in your presence if you installed the main bearings, so use the plasti-gage for the rod bearings as well. If you did not use plasti-gage for main bearings, disassemble it and check it, seriously.

4) Specifically state everything you have done up to this point on your engine assembly.

[jyoungblood87]

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...i kno...it just that i got it balanced at a machine shop and i thought they checked it out with the pastigages...but looking back on some of the guy's work, raises an eyebrow...

but any suggestion d112crzy...imma do the pastigage...

[HondaFan81]

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...i kno...it just that i got it balanced at a machine shop and i thought they checked it out with the pastigages...but looking back on some of the guy's work, raises an eyebrow...

but any suggestion d112crzy...imma do the pastigage...

You obviously do not know what work was done at the machine shop and its purpose.

Balancing has nothing to do with checking bearing clearances, nor does it imply they checked them for you.

You need to do more research on the basics of assembling a motor, much of this can be accomplished by actually following instructions on a good manual. You have not proved anything so far that you've done anything nor has any other source to verify your bearing clearances. That is why you are having problems with it and you don't know why, because you have not measured them. You see, to appropriately size engine bearings, you must measure the components related to the bearings, like rod large bore diameter, crank main & rod journals, block main bore diameters. If you had done this, you would have already determined if something was machine improperly because it would have not met factory specification, which you can reference in a good manual.

Plasti-gage will verify what range you are in for bearing clearances. They are in .001, .0015, .002 and .003 inches. You should be between .001 and .002 inches max on both rod and main bearings.

However, all you can do to potentially fix your issue is verify you assembled everything correctly, all components are in place in the correct order and all torque specs properly achieved. Have someone verify this that is more experienced than you, don't let your EGO get in the way. Only then, if all checks well and you still have this issue, can you say something is actually messed up. Then, you will have the fun task of finding out which component(s) is the cause of your problem....anything from a burr, a bend on a part, wrong torque specs, warped components, improperly machined component(s), improperly made aftermarket component(s)....could be your problem.

[d112crzy]

He's also not using a stretch gauge for the rod bolts.

[HondaFan81]

He's also not using a stretch gauge for the rod bolts.

However, this will not cause a bindage issue if you follow ARP's instruction. They have instructions for with and without use of stretch gauge. It is a nice tool, but not completely necessary for a build. You just have to verify the torque spec is met appropriately, not prematurely due to initial friction on fresh surfaces.

[champagneaccord]

I had this problem.

Bearings were oversized.

[HondaFan81]

I had this problem.

Bearings were oversized.

That could be a potential problem, but this guy does not provide us with this information, he lacks details.