Plan(s)

[SuperTuner12010]

Ok I have decided to try and pull 160HP out of an F22 with minor modifications that can be done with hand tools and little knowledge. It will take me a while to get all these parts and get it done but in the end I will Dyno and see if it could be done at a semi low cost...

:My Current Setup:
-F22a6(IAB's) constantly open
-DC Sports Header
-Stock Exhaust
-Cold Air Intake
-Royal Purple oil

:Plans:
-Secondary F22a6 butterfly plate with butterflys taken out and plate stacked under or over working IAB plate
-P12 ECU
-IAB black box hooked up to a window switch to activate IAB's
-Delta 272 Cam
-H23 upper plenum and Throttle body
-Custom exhaust(2.5" no cat with a resonator and a Apexi or similiar muffler)
-A/C pump removal
-Unorthedox underdrive pulley
-Full tune up

:Possibilities:
-I have 2 HKS cam gears sitting in my room so I may use one but I heard they dont give any power? I always thought you could get 1 or 2 HP but I heard it only changes the power curve.
-5spd swap to take advantage of 5 speeds and a light weight flywheel
-I was thinking of removing the power steering pump, I have it installed but the boots on my steering rack are tourn and all fluid put in leaks out...
-Port matching intake manifold and 3 angle valve job

Any one want to add anything that would help or can answer any questions posted above?

Thanks Alot
Derek

[NAiL05]

Read cisco's red project he pulled 157whp with it. And that was on a mustang dyno which reads lower than most.

[SuperTuner12010]

Then I could possibly be lookin abut 170...I remember hae had almost everything I stated even the port match and valve job

But I cant recall if he had the a6 with a plate stacked on the other, I was also thinking of a bisi intake manifold gasket.The only dyno in my town is an AWD dyno and its the only one in town. I think its $60 an hour and I would be doing 3 runs and taking the average from that...

[MikeW]

Damn. You just listed off $1000 worth of parts and all you're gonna get is 160-170HP?!?

[MikeW]

Maybe not a grand, but $500(including the DC header you already have).


You might also look into removing CC components...maybe even P/S..

[NAiL05]

As I said read up on Cisco's build. He layed the ground work for the possibility of breaking 157whp. Your list of mods is too basic. If it took him that much work to crank out 157whp what makes you think gettin some minor parts are going to help? As mentioned there can be modifications to what cisco did to maybe extract similar power levels cheaper but still...He already layed the groundwork. Dunno how much he spent exactly but everything I have seen in his threads are quality. Other than that crappy kamikaze header he has.

[SuperTuner12010]

Well if the P12 is supose to give about 10 horses, and stacking the plates is another 5...And thats still maintaining the low end torque...

I can get a port and polish for free, and a 3 angle valve job for $150.
I am looking into the H23 upper plenum with throttle body, and the guy at the junk yard said $70 for the whole intake mani+throttle body...
Underdrive pulley is what? 150?

It wont be that expensive as how I am getting a great deal on everything im getting. Thats 15 estimated hp tat e could put into his build to put him over 160 possibly, stacking the IAB plates has already been dyno proven 5 horses.

[NAiL05]

Well if the P12 is supose to give about 10 horses, and stacking the plates is another 5...And thats still maintaining the low end torque...
I can get a port and polish for free, and a 3 angle valve job for $150.
I am looking into the H23 upper plenum with throttle body, and the guy at the junk yard said $70 for the whole intake mani+throttle body...
Underdrive pulley is what? 150?

It wont be that expensive as how I am getting a great deal on everything im getting. Thats 15 estimated hp tat e could put into his build to put him over 160 possibly, stacking the IAB plates has already been dyno proven 5 horses.

Most of these power numbers are estimates. I wont believe them until I see charts. An ECU wont give you 10 horses. maybe at the crank but definitely not at the wheel. I would say it would give you more like 2 whp if even that. Have you baselined your car yet? That would tell you if you improved on it or not. Go to a dyno day they charge 50 for like 3 pulls or so without tuning. If your gonna go modding IMO a p12 is useless.

[Losiracer2]

yeah x2 on that Bisimoto Phenolic intake manifold gasket. That one gasket cools the intake temps by like 50 degrees and Bisi says it nets about 7hp. So that could get you up to your goal of 160.

[NAiL05]

yeah x2 on that Bisimoto Phenolic intake manifold gasket. That one gasket cools the intake temps by like 50 degrees and Bisi says it nets about 7hp. So that could get you up to your goal of 160.

If hes thinkin about starting at whatever the motor is rated whether it be 125/130/140 that isnt an accurate way to gauge it. In reality you have to get a baseline and I wouldnt be surprised if the engine hp rating was around 115-117whp with around 120wtq. Those were on manuals I dunno about autos. After he gets that baseline he can go from there. Crank hp is easy. WHP is not.

[SuperTuner12010]

I know that, thats why I want to match his redcar and then do things he didnt and try to pass it.I want the p12 because I dont plan on tuning with this motor...After I reach my goal if I do, In the near future I would like to throw an H22 in. But im still debating if I should go with an H22 tranny or F22 tranny for the 5spd swap.

[NAiL05]

If you want your 160hp I would steer away from a p12. Factory tunes are limited.

[Granite CB7]

...After I reach my goal if I do, In the near future I would like to throw an H22 in. But im still debating if I should go with an H22 tranny or F22 tranny for the 5spd swap.

Honestly, I'm a bigger F series fan than anything, but if you plan to swap to an H, I wouldn't even bother w/ this F project. If you have plenty of cash to throw at it, then great, another F22 w/ some decent #'s is nice, but most on here are on a budget. I think it'd be best to pick 1 route and just go w/ it.

If it's an F or an H, the H tranny would be best.

[rexload]

You don't really need cam gears, underdrive crank pulley, and royal purple oil.
If you are all about performance, IMO the first thing you should do is convert your Accord to 5spd. H23 tranny is a good bang for your buck if you can find one is good condition.
Removing A/C and P/S is good and almost 50lbs
I would look into a Blacktrax intake manifold spacer, that thing works.
With a 272 cam, your DC header, wider exhaust, good intake manifold/throttle body set-up, and a full tune up, you should definately be able to make 160 flywheel horsepower. However, a stock ECU will hurt your performance. I would definitely stay away from using a stock ECU. You will need to get a chipped ECU and tune it if you want to get the maximum power with that set-up. If you can get good porting, and find a good tuner, you are probably going to be way over your 160 peak hp goal.
But think about it, you could just get a JDM F22B and be at 160hp stock for around the same amount of money.
Depending on where you get your parts and where you tune your car, you may end up spending almost as much as you would on a low mileage JDM H22. Something else to think about. It may not be a better option if you are an F-series fan, but it may be a better bang for your buck.

[Losiracer2]

Would you really be able to FEEL that extra 20hp after doing all those modifications? and will it be useable? Idk if doing all those mods and the labor involved installing them would be worth it. b/c our engines come w/ 140 hp stock? So I would say tally up how much everything would cost for parts, the labor cost if you don't know how to do all this yourself and see where you're at.