well my engine is stock f22a ... i just recently swapped a f22a1 in there because the original motor was fubar. its throwing a cel code 6 which is the coolant temp sensor. I still have the bad engine siting here so i swapped the sensors and it is still throwing the code. I know the sensor should be good because even though the engine was bad it ran and no codes were present before I did the swap. The car dose not cold idle it starts up fine and idles at about 650 -700 at first then it go's up to about 850 when warm. I don't mind that I just hate having the check engine light on on my dash its annoying. And yes I reset the ecu after I changed the part and still a code.
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sounds like a coolant issue
id check the coolant level and made sure theres no air in the system. question what intake manifold you using. also look into the air boost valve. also another possibilty could be the fast idle since you say it doesnt idle cold. did you possibly switch a fan swith connector.
also just get a new switch, they are like 30 bucks.
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Follow the wiring and make sure its not cut or crimped on anything.
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Originally posted by xfactortype1id check the coolant level and made sure theres no air in the system. question what intake manifold you using. also look into the air boost valve. also another possibilty could be the fast idle since you say it doesnt idle cold. did you possibly switch a fan swith connector.
also just get a new switch, they are like 30 bucks.
In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.
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Originally posted by AccordReborndude i just had this same problem. It ended up being that i plugged in some plugs in the wong spot.
Rear coolant neck plug = blue and black wires
i forgot the other two colors but they are in the wiring schematic in the manual.
This is another thing its doing which I believe is related. when I turned it on in the morning after it warms up the idle will stay hovering the 1000 rpm mark and the cel stays on. If I turn the car off and on again and continue to drive, the cel tuns off and rpms drop to 750-800 like normal. But only when I turn the car off and on again and continue to drive...
In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.
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thats what i mean
the switch im talking about is the ecs sensor/ its cheap and why not just replace it rather than headache and waste time debating on whether its bad or not.
the air boost valve is the valve on the end of your upper intake manifold drivers side thats aids in idle on startup.
also check the fast idle valve as that is responsible for cold idle. make sure the plunger is tight. searh for fitv fix.
then bleed the system good.
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Originally posted by xfactortype1the switch im talking about is the ecs sensor/ its cheap and why not just replace it rather than headache and waste time debating on whether its bad or not.
the air boost valve is the valve on the end of your upper intake manifold drivers side thats aids in idle on startup.
also check the fast idle valve as that is responsible for cold idle. make sure the plunger is tight. searh for fitv fix.
then bleed the system good.
Ill check the air boost valve...
fast idle has been replaced and no code coming up for that ...
its been cleaned and new gasket ....
In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.
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Originally posted by kapone
This is another thing its doing which I believe is related. when I turned it on in the morning after it warms up the idle will stay hovering the 1000 rpm mark and the cel stays on. If I turn the car off and on again and continue to drive, the cel tuns off and rpms drop to 750-800 like normal. But only when I turn the car off and on again and continue to drive...
In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.
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