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    car wont turn over, battery, cel lights

    i got the car running the other day, so today i went out to attempt to fix the quick overheating problem, and tach problem. the car started right up again no problem but felt a little more rocky and eventually shut off. figured it was grounding somewhere becuase nothing was working. the clock wasnt working, the heater wasnt blowing, and when you would turn the dome light on the cel light and battery light turned on. i have no idea what the hell is going on and i am getting really frustrated with this car.

    if anyone has any suggestions at all please let me know. when you turn the key over it just clicks, and sometimes it goes to turn over but wont start. any information will be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.

    Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

    Originally posted by d112crzy
    So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

    #2
    new battery will fix that
    USDM [H] PiMP

    iP0P VTEC
    WhiTE B0Y!!!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by imismyh0nda
      new battery will fix that
      its the battery from my subaru and it doesnt cause me problems in there. could it still be the battery? i was about to go get one and start grounding shit too. becuase the only grounds i know connected right now, is the one big wire from the battery, the two plastic box thingys on the side, the thermostat ground is connected, and the fuse box ground is connected.

      ima go get a battery here in a second, after i eat something.

      anyone else with some ideas??

      Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

      Originally posted by d112crzy
      So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

      Comment


        #4
        There is a ground behind the passenger side kick panel inside the car. It is right next to the blue connector to check you cel. I don't know if you have taken your car apart or taken the dash out but its a quick check you could do.
        -1991 Honda Accord LX H22a-

        Comment


          #5
          Also check the negative battery cable for signs or corrosion/deterioration.


          Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

          My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

          A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

          If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

          Comment


            #6
            i got a battery, still no interior dome light, and clock. the car now turns over but doesnt start. have a feeling its the fuel pump. i dont hear it prime when i turn the key over. i have to get a multimeter or something. is there a fuse for this?

            Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

            Originally posted by d112crzy
            So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

            Comment


              #7
              Have you checked the main relay?


              Car Safety / General Servicing Checks --------Basic suspension checks

              My 5.7 LS1 Holden Ute

              A "Finished" project car is never finished until its been sold.

              If at first you don't succeed, Try again. Don't give up too easily, persistance pays off in the end.

              Comment


                #8
                would the main relay keep the fuel pump from priming? i dont hear the fuel pump prime when i turn the key over.

                ***edit...i found that the main relay controls fuel, but was confuse about what else it does. i dont have interior lights, clock, hazards, nothing. does the main relay control that as well?
                Last edited by bagoon316; 03-08-2008, 10:58 PM.

                Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

                Originally posted by d112crzy
                So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

                Comment


                  #9
                  could be your ignition switch or the wires that go from ignition switch down to the kickpanel fuse box. My switch went bad, and it confused me, because position III worked (starter engaged), but none of the interior lights/accessories came on, nor did the engine catch (which you need position I and II to function). So I say, if it cranks (and you're sure you have a fully charged battery/working alt), but doesn't catch AND you have no interior lights/accessories, it's the IGNITION SWITCH.

                  take a look at this:
                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...nition+removal

                  You may not have to replace the entire cylinder, just the switch (with wires attached to it) in the back of it.

                  As for your cel, you should jump it to see what the code is.

                  One thing this also could be, is what I have witnessed on my own CB and heard of with others: on mine, the Ignition Control Module went out exactly the same time that the ignition switch went out AND the main relay need resoldering. And a few short weeks to follow, my alt ANd starter went out together as well. Common theme: the electrical stuff is shyting out
                  Last edited by BlackPearl2006; 03-08-2008, 11:17 PM.
                  My Ride (Click here)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Check your fuses.
                    wat?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      under hood fuses are all good, i have to check kick p
                      anel fuses. i know for sure i am throwing a cel for an O2 sensor becuase there is no O2 sensor plugged in. hopefully the whole electrical system isnt take a shyt on me. i am hoping it could just be the ignition swith or the main relay.

                      the battery is brand new, bought it today and still the same thing. i will run the cel jump tomorrow, i am sure there will be multiple codes.

                      typical ignition switch price?
                      typical main relay price?

                      ***my f20a dohc jdm swap came with the complete dash wiring harness. i just thought of this, can i use the main relay and if the ignition switch is there that also from a jdm engine? its still an accord engine.
                      Last edited by bagoon316; 03-08-2008, 11:32 PM.

                      Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

                      Originally posted by d112crzy
                      So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        ignition switch usually I see at around $50, even used. Every accord I've come by at the junkyard already has the switch pulled because it's such a commodity. Check to make sure the wires themselves are not loose or broken (does your car have an alarm? Usually the alarm is tapped into the black ignition wire, and sometimes a poorly crimped butt joint connector can cause the black ignition wire to come loose. Also make sure the plug for the ignition wire is plugged in securely at the kickpanel fusebox.

                        Main Relay: No sense buying a "new" main relay, because all the oem main relays have the inherent problem of having poorly soldered joints straight from the factory. Even the new ones have this problem. You might get away with just pulling one from a junker and hope that one works better than the one you already have. Otherwise, you can resolder it yourself (search for it in the DIY section).

                        I'm betting it's the ignition switch. That's my best guess. Try that and go from there. If you buy a new switch from Autozone and it doesn't fix the prob, as long as you keep it intact, you can return it at least.



                        Originally posted by bagoon316
                        under hood fuses are all good, i have to check kick p
                        anel fuses. i know for sure i am throwing a cel for an O2 sensor becuase there is no O2 sensor plugged in. hopefully the whole electrical system isnt take a shyt on me. i am hoping it could just be the ignition swith or the main relay.

                        the battery is brand new, bought it today and still the same thing. i will run the cel jump tomorrow, i am sure there will be multiple codes.

                        typical ignition switch price?
                        typical main relay price?

                        ***my f20a dohc jdm swap came with the complete dash wiring harness. i just thought of this, can i use the main relay and if the ignition switch is there that also from a jdm engine? its still an accord engine.
                        My Ride (Click here)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i will look into it, and maybe my dash wiring harness i got with my swap came with one. i am also going to check the ignition fuse under the hood. i will also check to see if it came with a main relay and replace that for shits and giggles.

                          Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

                          Originally posted by d112crzy
                          So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            i checked my dash wiring harness here is an update.

                            main relay, swithced them out and went to start the car. same thing, no dash lights, no clock, no dome nothing. just turned over like before, if it did catch, it only ran for a few seconds before it shut off.

                            went back to the wiring harness to look for the ignition switch in hopes it would be there. sweet...found the interior fuse box with the switch plugged in still. traced back through my pile of wiring and find that they cut it before the switch/cylinder....SHYT!!!

                            so anyways...should i just buy a used ignition switch for now...with a key, cylinder, switch, and wiring to fuse box, its only 70ish shipped. brand new those things are a good 200 bux. screw that. will used suffice for now? i have seen others just replace with used. can i replace the cylinder so i keep one key? or not worth the time/trouble?

                            **another quick question. does it matter on transmission. i found one i can get and replace the door/trunk locks but its for an automatic and i have stick????
                            Last edited by bagoon316; 03-10-2008, 01:32 PM.

                            Hola, tengo tres patas. Me llamo tripod.

                            Originally posted by d112crzy
                            So you're throwing a bitch fit because some other girl at school has the same nail polish and skirt as you do?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You dont need to replace the cylinder when you replace the switch. Just get the switch.

                              CrzyTuning now offering port services

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