Project: butt dyno

[almostJDM]

ok im going back to the head bolts, when I took off the head i wanted ot check the tightness of then and sure enough I could loosin them with my fingers this is probably due to the fact I couldnt find an allen socket to fit my 1/2'" torque wrench so I just tightend em as tight as I thought I should go which wasnt enough, so im going to remove the studs and recheck the flatness of the block even tho it was milled and im going to check the flatness of the head also, and i checked the headgasket and its still in one piece none of the material is missing and theirs no kinks in it

[cb9tuner]

that may be possible the head was'nt torqued right due to the head studs, recomend to fine an allen big enough for a 1/2 inch and retorqe to spec I always thought about the arp studs personally never seen them always thought how do you tourqe them?

[almostJDM]

that may be possible the head was'nt torqued right due to the head studs, recomend to fine an allen big enough for a 1/2 inch and retorqe to spec I always thought about the arp studs personally never seen them always thought how do you tourqe them?

yea im thinking that the nuts wer hitting the end of the threeads on the top making me think it was torqued, also the head bolts are about an inch shorter then the studs

[almostJDM]

ok i poured a cap full of oil against the exhaust side of the cylinder and watched it make its way around and its not leaking any where in the cylinders, so pistons are sealing enough, now ive been thinking, even if the nuts on the tops of the studs wer hitting the end of the threads, and its still not as tight it would tighten the rest of the stud also so i think they wer getting torqued tight enough, which brings me back to the valves, and brunos test see air can get into places liquds couldnt even dream of getting into and the h22 valve are only sitting half on the seat since the seat area on the valve is cut shallower then the f20b valves, and imagin 180-200psi pushing against a vlave thats only seated half way it would get through alot easier then one thats fully seated, which makes me really think that its the valves leaking, cause both the block deck and the head are flat as flat can be, plus theres no fuel or oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, so im gonna look it over once more

[almostJDM]

then ill reinstall the f20b valves

[bruno8747]

So you are saying that the valves in general are not flush with the head? I dont really understand what you are talking about when it comes down to the valves and the valve seat.

[almostJDM]

ok the h22 valve seat area on the valves are not cut at as sharp of an angle as the f20b valves are and im thinkiong they arnt seating all the way causing them to leak

[bruno8747]

So let me get this straight. You are using H22A valves in the F20B head. With the stock valve job?

[almostJDM]

So let me get this straight. You are using H22A valves in the F20B head. With the stock valve job?

.....yup

[bruno8747]

.....yup

You know what, Hit me up on AIM and we shall discuss this more in depth.

[almostJDM]

ok

[almostJDM]

Woot!!!

I knew it I knew it I KNEW IT, it was the valves leaking all along, i put the old ones back in, and reinstalled the head and cranked her over and it cranks slow HELL YEA!!!, im going to test the compression and ill let you all know the numbers

[bruno8747]

I knew it I knew it I KNEW IT, it was the valves leaking all along, i put the old ones back in, and reinstalled the head and cranked her over and it cranks slow HELL YEA!!!, im going to test the compression and ill let you all know the numbers

Get the leakdown tester and see how it is

[almostJDM]

ok once i go get my suby ill grab one if any place has one, but heres the numbers

1: 130
2: 135
3: 130
4: 135

[bruno8747]

Eh they are low numbers but they are within spec. Could be the gauge. It should start with those numbers