Project: butt dyno

[cb9tuner]

are your measurements correct on the ring clearance to cly. wall? thats the only thing I can think of since you already eliminated the possible cause of valvetrain leakage

bump for needed info

[almostJDM]

are your measurements correct on the ring clearance to cly. wall? thats the only thing I can think of since you already eliminated the possible cause of valvetrain leakage

bump for needed info

when i poured some windex in the cyilinders they didnt leak either, and the ring end gaos are well within specs

[d112crzy]

Not sure if you mentioned it, but is it sparking?

[almostJDM]

Not sure if you mentioned it, but is it sparking?

i dunno i didnt even check cause i checked the comp first, but im going to test it once i put it all back together

[d112crzy]

Damn.

That should be the first thing you ever check when troubleshooting a car that won't start.

Spark. Fuel. Air.

If you have spark, make sure it's sparking in the correct order.

[almostJDM]

Damn.

That should be the first thing you ever check when troubleshooting a car that won't start.

Spark. Fuel. Air.

If you have spark, make sure it's sparking in the correct order.

yea i know i know and i should have, now im thinking it could be the map and or the spark, since the fuel pump only primes for a split second

[almostJDM]

ok now i can answer your question d112crzy and its no it was not getting spark lol, see i knew there was supposed to be aground on the thremostat but i couldnt find one on the harness so i just added a wire from the fender well to the thermostat, but just now as i was bolting the thermo back onto the head i saw the ground lol that would probably explain the darker then normal cel

[d112crzy]

so does it start now?

[almostJDM]

so does it start now?

dunno i still have to put the plenum on and a few other things then im gonna put a different map on the chip, im going to put the map i had on it b4 back on it

[almostJDM]

ok its getting spark and fuel but still no start

[almostJDM]

ok either i have a hell of a lot of leaking in the pistons or my guage is broken or theres a leak somewhere else, like the headgasket but its new hmmm, cause the valves arnt leaking and i poured a cap full of oil into cylinder #1 and the comp still read 0 and it didnt sound any different so im gonna start spraying around the head gasket, also would there be anything else i might have forgottem that could be causeing the 0 compression if it doent have any?

[bruno8747]

Try a different head gasket and see what happens.

[almostJDM]

ok ill see what happens with my old one cause thats the only one i have and itll take a week to get a new f20b one, but i also noticed one thing tho i dont know if itll affect then compression, but i made sure my crank was at tdc on cyl. 1 then i put my timing belt on my cams then i retested to make sure it was at tdc still and i noticed that right as the piston starts going down then arrows are strait up, would that affect the comression?

[bruno8747]

ok ill see what happens with my old one cause thats the only one i have and itll take a week to get a new f20b one, but i also noticed one thing tho i dont know if itll affect then compression, but i made sure my crank was at tdc on cyl. 1 then i put my timing belt on my cams then i retested to make sure it was at tdc still and i noticed that right as the piston starts going down then arrows are strait up, would that affect the comression?

That should not affect anything. Something is def wrong though, Try spraying the old headgasket with the copper spray and putting it back on. Also try installing the head without the dowel pins and see if your results will be better.

[almostJDM]

That should not affect anything. Something is def wrong though, Try spraying the old headgasket with the copper spray and putting it back on. Also try installing the head without the dowel pins and see if your results will be better.

ok ill do that, good thing i have head studs lol or my head may just slide right off