Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

H22 not getting fuel

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 6
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 template Next
    #1

    H22 not getting fuel

    I have been working with Nic (90cb7sleeper) swapping an h22 with h23 5 speed tranny into his previously automatic 92 CB7.

    The motor is in not problem. WE are not exactly sure what kind of injectors came with it, so currently we have f22 injectors in it. WE did not cut the wiring harness, just added the VTEC harness stuff. It has a chipped p06 with vtec added in it. Fuel is going through the rail. We have swapped injectors, injector resistor boxes, fuel pressure regulators. Motor is getting spark. Oh, swapped distributor, plug wires, coils too. When the spark plugs are pulled there is not any fuel on them after cranking the engine MANY times. The timing is believed to be correct. Everything switched came from either a previously running motor, or currently running motor. The 5speed wiring is exactly the same on his swap guide. IF anybody has any ideas please chime in. It is not throwing any CELs when we are cranking the motor.
    Last edited by The G-Man; 08-19-2007, 12:01 PM.
    Gary A.K.A. Carter
    [sig killed by photobucket]
    Tags: None
    #2
    Take a spark plug out of the fuel rail and crank it. See if squirts. Does he have the stock p13?

    Try starting it with a stock accord ecu. It should start up, or at least try to start. You'll throw a few codes, but it should at least start up in limp mode.

    Doing this will let you know if it's the ecu. The ecu itself works because I tested it in my car. But it could very well be the map.

    What type of weather do you have over there? Crome is weird on start up, mostly when the weather changes dramatically.

    Also, did you unplug the tcu and do the correct wiring for the manual swap?

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by d112crzy
      Take a spark plug out of the fuel rail and crank it. See if squirts. Does he have the stock p13?

      Try starting it with a stock accord ecu. It should start up, or at least try to start. You'll throw a few codes, but it should at least start up in limp mode.

      Doing this will let you know if it's the ecu. The ecu itself works because I tested it in my car. But it could very well be the map.

      What type of weather do you have over there? Crome is weird on start up, mostly when the weather changes dramatically.

      Also, did you unplug the tcu and do the correct wiring for the manual swap?
      There wasnt any fuel, or even the remote smell of gas on the spark plugs when we pulled them out... fuel is indeed getting to the top of the rail and the top of the injectors (the tops of the supposed h22 injectors were wet with fuel when we pulled them out to switch to the f22 ones) its just not going through the injectors...

      The engine harness was only modified in one place, i lengthened the coolant sensor plug so that it could reach the sensor on the thermostat housing, everything else is left stock, the harness still even has all the plugs on it for the automatic. No modifications to the fuel injector wiring what so ever

      as gary said, we are getting spark i.e. we pulled the spark plug out and held it to the shock tower and the spark jumped from the plug to the shock tower....

      I dont have a stock p13 as this is an obd2 h22, I did, though, plug the PT3 back up and tried that but it was the same symptoms... So I am almost certain its not the chipped ecu...

      All the five speed wiring is to CPmike spec... (neutral safety switch wires are soldered together, and the black and green/white wires are connected together to make the car think it is in park... and yes the tcu ws unplugged.

      Now, with all these no fuel symptoms, we decided to pull the spark plugs out,
      and to pour gas in each hole and put the spark plugs back in and attempted to crank it but it didnt even pop... so that got me on the whole timing thing...

      I have checked the timing at the crank and cam gears and it appeared to be off by one tooth at the crank, so now i have all of that taken off and lined back up but i cant figure out how to let tension off of the auto tensioner to put the belt back on... ill do a search and see if i can figure that out

      any help is GREATLY appreciated...
      thanks
      Nic

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by owequitit
        You can also use the weird bolt that sticks out with a cotter pin in it.

        1) With the belt still on the car, use an open end wrench to break it free (it shouldn't be very tight.

        2) HAND loosen it just until it stops.

        3) this will lock the tensioner arm in place, so that when you remove the belt, the auto tensioner will not be able to extend.

        4) Installation is the reverse of removal, but the belt will be tricky to get on.

        Honda has a little tool that you stick on the end of the exhaust cam gear. It is like a rounded ramp that allows you to slide the belt back onto the exhaust cam. It goes on the intake cam easily.

        Alternate method #1.

        1) Remove the timing belt

        2) Remove the tensioner.

        3) Loosen the bolt on the bottom, and use a vice to recompress the tensioner.

        4) Get the braket like cp said, and lock the tensioner down with the bracket.

        5) Reinstall, and pull the bracket out.

        6) The tensioner will do the rest.

        I have used both, and they worked fine.

        I personally don't like to reuse auto tensioners, so if I were to pull it off, I would just replace it with a new one.

        Cheap insurance IMO.
        this was a post i found, so im going to go and try this to get the belt back on....

        Comment

          #5
          all right i tried that shit and now i have a fucking water leak, tightened the bolt back up and the leak persists....

          Comment

            #6
            did you guys replace the water pump with a new one?
            F22a1-->F22A-->H22A-->auto-2-5spd-->K20 6spd-->F22C 6spd RWD-->4G63 6spd AWD-->K24 6spd????



            Sold to: blackice, Myothercar, Rennat, Ilikebigbutts, HA91, DA92CB7, accord91lx, Cb7GHOST, Gemini, whiteaccord92,Warudakumi, jhondayaaj
            Bought from: 93twodoorLX, Datmofo, g7kobayashi, accord_inspire, Accord SiR, Kurobei, UK-Accord, phreakish93, RENR, k-mart

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by SMseagren83
              did you guys replace the water pump with a new one?
              Yeah, the guy that i bought it from was putting it in a civic, he put the h23 tranny on there, had the head rebuilt, and put a new timing belt, water pump, and balance shaft belt all on it.... inspected this when i bought the motor....

              i had the thought at one point that maybe he put d/b series injectors in there to get around the injector resistor box wiring but i dont know to much about the whole civic h22 swap thing...
              then i read a post that cisco (hondafan81) had made that saturated injectors in a peak and hold car worked, it was the other way around that didnt work.... but that doesnt matter now.....
              i still have the little trickle of water coming out from when i loosened that special bolt, i need to figure outhow to get this timing belt back on so i can bolt/hook everything back up and tryit again...so i dont know.... im just pissed off a little right now.... i even considered dropping the old motor back in... lol
              Last edited by 90Cb7sleeper; 08-19-2007, 04:57 PM.

              Comment

                #8
                loosening the service bolt wouldnt cause a drip leak from the water pump...

                was the motor ran with the new pump? if not, i know sometimes new pumps take a bit of heat for the gasket to seal up properly. sometimes i know the guys in the shop use a lil bit of some sealant around the gasket to aid in sealing properly.

                its an actual honda sealant. i forget what it is exactly.

                i wouldnt worry too much unless its already been ran and what not..
                F22a1-->F22A-->H22A-->auto-2-5spd-->K20 6spd-->F22C 6spd RWD-->4G63 6spd AWD-->K24 6spd????



                Sold to: blackice, Myothercar, Rennat, Ilikebigbutts, HA91, DA92CB7, accord91lx, Cb7GHOST, Gemini, whiteaccord92,Warudakumi, jhondayaaj
                Bought from: 93twodoorLX, Datmofo, g7kobayashi, accord_inspire, Accord SiR, Kurobei, UK-Accord, phreakish93, RENR, k-mart

                Comment

                  #9
                  no, i was he first person to ever turn this motor over since the rebuild, he ran into isues with child support something and had t sell it for the money....

                  ill go see if it stopped dripping, but water was not leaking until i loosened that bolt, i assure you, lol i did it and i was like oooo shit and tighened it back up really quick...
                  brb going to go and take a look again....

                  Comment

                    #10
                    well yeah from trying to turn it over coolant should make its way to the pump...... so prolly at first it didnt leak, but now that coolant is going through the motor its got a slight leak.

                    it will take a few heat cycles to seal up if its not now. that is if it seals from heat.....it should though.
                    F22a1-->F22A-->H22A-->auto-2-5spd-->K20 6spd-->F22C 6spd RWD-->4G63 6spd AWD-->K24 6spd????



                    Sold to: blackice, Myothercar, Rennat, Ilikebigbutts, HA91, DA92CB7, accord91lx, Cb7GHOST, Gemini, whiteaccord92,Warudakumi, jhondayaaj
                    Bought from: 93twodoorLX, Datmofo, g7kobayashi, accord_inspire, Accord SiR, Kurobei, UK-Accord, phreakish93, RENR, k-mart

                    Comment

                      #11
                      ok, foud out the source of the water leak, its coming from the back side of the tensioner, i started loosening the bolt that goes through the middle of the tenisoner pulleys and the leak got worse, soooo, do i need to take this bolt all tehway out and put some rtv on the ends of the threads to get it to seal back up?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        i have gotta stop talking to ya when i'm drunk so I know whats going on..things such as an H22 swap!
                        -1992 Accord EX H22 234whp 185wtq
                        -1993 Accord EX SOLD
                        -1995 Accord EX Wagon Daily Driver
                        -2012 GMC Canyon V8 4x4

                        Comment

                          #13
                          well apparently when i loosened that bolt, i cracked the side of the block, so its coming back out and i guess i will put the h23 back in and do a build up on the h22 if my friend still has that h22 block... fuck im so digusted right now... well atleast i got the five speed?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Actually I think you could still get away with this block. The adjusting bolt is NOT supposed to be loosened all the way because the adjuster bracket is preventing it from being removed. With that said, you most likely broke the water pump and not the block. If that's the case then just replace the pump and adjust the belt again.

                            ...adjust accordingly

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by LinX
                              Actually I think you could still get away with this block. The adjusting bolt is NOT supposed to be loosened all the way because the adjuster bracket is preventing it from being removed. With that said, you most likely broke the water pump and not the block. If that's the case then just replace the pump and adjust the belt again.
                              lol at second look, thats what i did, i was relieved, now i just gotta pick up another water pump,
                              now my question is, will i have to have that bracket to compress the auto tensioner to get the belt on? ive never delt with the auto tensioner, on the f22 ones, so i was wondering how to get the belt back on...

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 template Next
                              Working...
                              X