My H22 hits limiter @ 7800....

[NAiL05]

yeah I dont notice anything not running right , but then again I dont know what to look for ... I did read somewhere that all you need to do is remove the R11 , and put it on R12 or if R12 has one on it just simply remove R11 , im not sure this is right but its for a P13 wich is what Ive got ... I need to find more on converting from auto to manual ... does ur friend want to share his method with me ?? I would appreciate it greatly LOL

He found the write up on some forum. I think it might have been pgmfi.org. He just took out a resistor and something else.

[Noxidea]

He found the write up on some forum. I think it might have been pgmfi.org. He just took out a resistor and something else.

Nice I came up with the same one , I beleive I will be doing this tonight to see if it makes a difference at all .. I dont know for sure but we will see .. it must do something to protect the trans or whatever , I hope it makes it quicker a little ... Thanks

Bottom line is it will be running right on the manual setup... so thats better either way ....

Thanks again

[v4lu3s]

do you have a code 19 showing when you check your check engine light ? if so then it is an auto ecu
if you do not have a code 19 it is a manual ecu
the manual ecu and 5 spd ecu use the EXACT SAME PROGRAM. the only difference is a pair of resistors. thats it.

i even just double checked as well. i have copies of the edm p13, the jdm p13, the jdm auto p13 and usdm p13. all have the exact same oddball rev limiter right about 7600rpm. now the 8 or so after market programs i have DO have different rev limiters.

[blazen_accord]

since a stock JDM H22A (it JDM since no number after the "A") you would not make any more HP then 7000rpm and are asking to float your valves at 8k rpm and more.
Even with Nitrous setup and a chiped ECU to remove the rev limiter or to move it more your hurting your own performance when reving past 8k on stock head setup. Now getting a pair of Camshaft design for Nitrous that move your powerband up higher in RPM and valves and spring work on the head you can rev to 8500rpm and make good power with a good tune for the Chiped ECU. Just remember high rpm(8k+) create a lot of heat and it reduce your engine/tranny life.

[NAiL05]

Valve float on H22A occurs around 8500 RPM on a stock head. Plenty of prelude people take it to 8k even though its pointless.

[Noxidea]

Oh Im not lookin to go that high RPM I just want the limiter kinda away from 7600RPM just cause I know on nitrous if u for any reason hit that limiter its more like kaboom than anything , I dont think ill ever rev passed 8k in my life but it would be nice to know I can hit 8k or just before and not have to worry , My H pulls hard right up to 7600k No question , so im happy shifting there I just dont want any issues so I wanted to make sure I convert to Manual Trans, on the ECU to make sure nothing is different , and I just went and soldered the jumper onto 12 and took the 11 off if u know what im talkin about suposedly thats all I needed to do to fix my Trans Code ... We shall see in 1/2 hour when I can leave work , Thanks again peeps ...

[NAiL05]

Technically speaking if you want to run nitrous as long as you keep your eye on whats goin on, listen, and use your head you shouldnt need a limiter.

[Noxidea]

Technically speaking if you want to run nitrous as long as you keep your eye on whats goin on, listen, and use your head you shouldnt need a limiter.

right thats my point , I dont want a limiter at all cause if the limiter cuts fuel then thats when there is a problem all nitrous no fuel and kaabooom ...
So im sayin I just dont want the limiter there for safety reasons but if its gotta stay it wont effect me that much I will just be careful ... I soldered it and it seems to run fine , the code for automatic trans it gone ,, thanks to all of you that helped me figure that out , it didnt change the limiter at all sooo ... a little info for people ..

[NAiL05]

A limiter is there for safety reasons. Even if it leans out its only a couple of seconds unless you keep your foot on the limiter for like 5 min then thats when trouble starts. Bounce it off once or twice your fine.

[Noxidea]

A limiter is there for safety reasons. Even if it leans out its only a couple of seconds unless you keep your foot on the limiter for like 5 min then thats when trouble starts. Bounce it off once or twice your fine.

Yea I know but not when ur on the juice LOL

[NAiL05]

Doesnt matter. Ive seen people with turbos do it. They just dont keep it on there all day.

[v4lu3s]

get an msd window switch, set it so the spray starts at 3k rpm and turns off at 7400rpm. never have to worry about it again. cheap insurance for 45-75 dollars...and it sure beats accidentally over revving to say 9k rpm and dropping valves.

[Noxidea]

get an msd window switch, set it so the spray starts at 3k rpm and turns off at 7400rpm. never have to worry about it again. cheap insurance for 45-75 dollars...and it sure beats accidentally over revving to say 9k rpm and dropping valves.

Well the problem with that is I have the Zex kit that only turns on at wide open throttle , I dont know for sure but I think it has something in it that will shut it off if i hit limiter or something ut im not sure need to read a little more of my instructions manual ... LOL

[shawn.hayden]

I have my limiter set at 7950 and I made power all the way to redline on a basemap tune

you can make power up to 8 with a bone stock H, but anything much higher than that and its pointless like everyone said.

[v4lu3s]

Well the problem with that is I have the Zex kit that only turns on at wide open throttle , I dont know for sure but I think it has something in it that will shut it off if i hit limiter or something ut im not sure need to read a little more of my instructions manual ... LOL

the brand of the nitrous does not make a difference. all zex does is use voltage rather than a switch to determine WOT.
there is NOTHING that will turn the zex off when you hit the rev limiter. jsut like any other basic nitrous kit.

If you want the nitrous to turn on at full throttle you floor it, and it WILL engage at 1000rpm. that is BAD. it will stay engaged as you bounce the rev limtier too. that is also bad. if you put a window switch on it the nitrous CANNOT be engaged below the start point or above the stop point. the MSD window switch sits on the ground for the nitrous kit and just does not let it engage unless it is within the specified range. I am not a pro on nitrous, but I have installed multiple kits and have had 3 diff kits on several of my cars over the past 7 years.