CB7 V6 Swap Parts List & Methods

[SuperTuner12010]

Also another thing, if you use the obd2 ecu used to run the motor you run into the immobilizer problem...

Were as with a chipped ecu you dont have that problem. I think using a chipped ecu or other stand alone system.

[Tnwagn]

just got in talks with a friend; he is getting his dealer license soon and he will have access to all the crashed Honda's with the J-series 6-speeds.

Let's see where this goes; hopefully we'll be able to setup a full V6 swap package for anyone interested.

Aim for the stars right.

That's pretty much the only practical way to get an entire setup without wasting a ton of time or money. Just find one that was involved in a serious rear end collision or got T-boned behind the fenders and you should be good. Not like we care about the frame of the parts car.

Someone get me a V6 with a 6 speed, and we will do one here at work.

I have a wiring harness and an E8 that would work wonders.

I knew you would pipe in Mike. What harness are you talking about? Just the standard E8 universal everything harness? If so, what would you want to do in terms of connectors? Do you all stock them or would you want/need to pull some off of the stock motor?

IF I ever get enough money and balls to do this and I'm still in the TN/KY area I will definitely see about heading your way

I am TELLING u guys, it will be much easier to mate the K-series tranny through an adapter to the motor

Man I wish I had the $$$$$$$$$$

I don't know about all that I agree with foamy on this one. Provide some reasonable response and I'll think about it, but there are going to have to be custom axles and shift linkages either way. The only possible easier part is the fact that you'd most likely be stuck with a 5-speed K-series tranny and be able to use the stock shifter bucket. The loss of an extra gear doesn't seem worth the gain of retaining the stock bucket. Plus, welding in a new bucket should be cake if you have everything else figured out.

Also another thing, if you use the obd2 ecu used to run the motor you run into the immobilizer problem...

Were as with a chipped ecu you dont have that problem. I think using a chipped ecu or other stand alone system.

The immobilizer would be very simple to bypass, give the requirements it needs at startup and what-not. It only locks you out if it doesn't get some certain voltages/currents when you try and start the car. It would be easy enough to trick the ECU into believing everything is still fine.

Although, a standalone system would probably work fine too. A chipped ECU would be a pain in the ass given you would have to design EVERYTHING yourself because I doubt there are tuners out there that would want to work on this thing. With standalone, the people tuning would know what's up and would have the knowledge to get it done without having to create an entire new Engine control system(i.e. Mike and the people at Haltech). Their modules apply to a much larger range of applications (such as OBD-II V6 swaps). Not saying it wouldn't take work on your part along with tuner, but it would greatly simplify them.


And oh yeah, the V6 swap fund after one day has grown to $1,300. Lol

[chessboxer]

I knew you would pipe in Mike. What harness are you talking about? Just the standard E8 universal everything harness? If so, what would you want to do in terms of connectors? Do you all stock them or would you want/need to pull some off of the stock motor?

IF I ever get enough money and balls to do this and I'm still in the TN/KY area I will definitely see about heading your way

Yeah, I wish I had time to pipe in more, but I have been very busy at work as of late, and the Racepak support has been rocking me.

But yeah, an E8 long flying lead harness would cover pretty much everything you would need to connect, and in all honesty, we see more sales to guys doing engine swaps than we do from our plug in harnesses.

That being said, I was talking about our long flying lead harness, unterminated style. The wire in could work a number of ways.

You could cut the stock wiring out for the most part, leaving only pig tails on most of the sensors. You would then use the connectors we keep in stock (You name it, we have it) to create connectors from the harness and to each connector for each sensor you needed.

You could leave the stock wiring harness on the engine, run the stock harness into the car, then remove the stock harness connector, and make your connections there with a short harness.

You could leave the main wiring to some of the bigger main connectors inside the engine, find the corresponding male or female plugs to said plugs, and wire in that way.

There really are a lot of ways to go about it, so long as you were to go with a standalone. With a stock ecu, you are much more limited, as well, you have to retain the factory wiring.

We see our ecus used for lots of these swaps (Not this one in particular of course) so this is something that the wiring would be the least of anyones worries.

I do not know the stock crank trigger pattern, so you might have to go with a custom crank trigger by using an S3 or S4 Hall Effect signal along with a flying magnet setup, but that would be relatively easy to do. One could do a scope trace of the stock setup to see what the crank trigger pattern was.

Thus, the wiring wouldn't be the hard part, it would be fabbing new brackets and everything else.

Thus, someone donate me an engine and tranny, and we will make it happen! ha.(I know this won't happen, but if you get the urge and you want to, just let me know)

[Tnwagn]

I do not know the stock crank trigger pattern, so you might have to go with a custom crank trigger by using an S3 or S4 Hall Effect signal along with a flying magnet setup, but that would be relatively easy to do. One could do a scope trace of the stock setup to see what the crank trigger pattern was.

Dude, you alright? I think you left Earth there for a second

Anyway, it sounds like an E8 with unterminated condutors sounds like the way to go from your end. If you had to do this yourself (which very well might happen), what route would you go? Given, you would have access to all the parts you wanted and a full engine harness and everything.

Hope Racepak isn't completely pwning you too much

[chessboxer]

Dude, you alright? I think you left Earth there for a second

Ha, remember the time I said that most of the time I don't know what I'm talking about? Always remember that.

But yeah, the way an ecu knows where the engine is in the cycle is generally through a combination of a crank position sensor and a cam position sensor.

With our ecus and with many other, there are multiple combinations of these built into the software that you can choose from. These, or sometimes as is the case, 1 of these (the crank position sensor) acts as the trigger.

Take for example our Hondas.

Inside the distributor we have a 24 tooth wheel, a 4 tooth wheel, and a 1 tooth wheel. There is the issue of tooth offset and trigger angle, but I will get into those another day.

We use the 24 tooth wheel as the trigger, and the 1 tooth wheel as the home counter. The ecu sees the 24 teeth and the 1 tooth for each engine cycle. The home trigger shows us when 1 cycle is over, and since we have a 4 cyl engine, we know that once every 6 teeth, we have one cylinder at TDC.

Inside the software, we set this to Multitooth general(24 teeth, although can choose other numbers of teeth in other apps), with a cam home reference.

There are multitudes of other choices here inside our software, and most of the most popular styles of crank patterns are in our software. These include 60-2 wheels seen in VW's, Audis, many Chevy's, the LSX engines, and nearly any engine run by a Bosch ECU, the Ford 36-2, and the Toyota 36-1. There are many, many more, but those are just some that we have built in already.

Thus, if one of those is not in the software already, it would be a case of using one of our hall effect sensors with a custom setup.

Now, perhaps I am just being a geek here, but when it comes to these sensors you have two main types, hall effect and reluctor style.

A Hall effect sensor is great. It produces a square wave. A reluctor sensor will produce a sine wave, which most companies use, but is not as nice as a square wave. With a square wave you see a definite rising and falling edge to a signal, whereas a sine wave isn't so clean with the rising and falling edge of the wave.

here is a more technical explanation of all the things, and more, than I just talked about. This is in regards to ECUs we no longer make, but the basic principles remain the same.
http://www.hitman.hm/ignition_guide.htm

[Tnwagn]

So let's assume that we have a 36-1 tooth configuration for out setup. Basically, just something you already have in your software. Then it would just be a matter of applying the correct timing in the software to make sure it knows what is going on at different points in the cycle?

Also, if the engine uses a reluctor style sensor then would it be possible to replace it with a hall effect sensor? Judging from the description I would think it would be possible, but it would be difficult to find one that would properly in place of the other.

Also, what are the kinds of things you would like from whoever you would be doing this swap for? Main in terms of wiring information. I can start compiling a list of all the different sensors and the voltages/currents they use for I/O to the ECU. This would make things simpler when it comes time to mate up the engine to the Haltech unit.

Wow, this is actually starting to look like it might work

[zack_odom]

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guys? WOW...Crazy this thread is STILL going and no body has even attempted this yet....

[Tnwagn]

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guys? WOW...Crazy this thread is STILL going and no body has even attempted this yet....

Find a complete J32 and 6-speed then get back to us.......

Availability of the 6-speed is just about 0 right now. You either have to know people or be very lucky to find one.

It's very do-able, just not very easy to source the right parts now.

Sure, someone could do it right now with an auto-trans, but that would hardly seem worth the effort.

[Clueless]

Find a complete J32 and 6-speed then get back to us.......

Availability of the 6-speed is just about 0 right now. You either have to know people or be very lucky to find one.

It's very do-able, just not very easy to source the right parts now.

Sure, someone could do it right now with an auto-trans, but that would hardly seem worth the effort.

not exactly zero, you can order one from the dealership but you'll pay through the nose for it.

[Tnwagn]

not exactly zero, you can order one from the dealership but you'll pay through the nose for it.

I doubt a dealership would go through the trouble of finding a spare motor to sell to you without it being a replacement going into an existing J-series equipped vehicle that they were doing the swap on. I can't rule it out fully, but from my dealings with Honda dealerships, they don't do that kind of thing. If anyone knows otherwise, let us know.

And I can't even begin to imagine buying all the parts online and piecing it together like that

[lokuputha]

......
guys? WOW...Crazy this thread is STILL going and no body has even attempted this yet....

The J-swap is going to happen soon.

[Tnwagn]

The J-swap is going to happen soon.

It would make me feel much better if this read

The J-swap is happening

[chessboxer]

Working with a guy now to do our E11v2 on the j32a, woot

[Tnwagn]

Working with a guy now to do our E11v2 on the j32a, woot

Saaaa-weeeeeet!!!!! Probably has some ungodly turbo setup or doing something with the Competech kit I bet.

Although I highly doubt it's for a CB application, this is great news because it means that Mike is going to learn exact what is needed in terms of wiring and connectors for the J32. I'm sure there are slight differences between that and the J30, but I'm sure they wouldn't be any problem for you to figure out.

I know you're busy, but let us know how progress goes on that build. What is the project car?

[npor]

i built a v6 accord 2 weeks ago but sold it..