CB7 V6 Swap Parts List & Methods

[owequitit]

Ok so the easyest way is to have a cv shaft made, the regualar end that the accord already has and then the J's side?

Ding ding ding.

You will have to talk to them about there policies. I edited your post for lack of common sense.

If they aren't responsive, you either a) asked the wrong question b) they could tell you weren't serious c) you never tried again or d) they never got the message.

If you don't like their service, try one of the other shops.

[lokuputha]

I dont know anyone else who could do it. There arnt many shops here, Even if they did. Even though wouldnt it be better to use the bigger shafts

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/

The shop will ask for certain criteria in order to get the custom shafts made: type/size of spline, length of shaft and minimum torque capacity. After that, you'll get some really nice gifts in the mail.

[Losiracer2]

well it looks like they swapped a J35 into a EG chassis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcnaoVuhr0w

[lokuputha]

well it looks like they swapped a J35 into a EG chassis http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcnaoVuhr0w

cool...he said it was a "a bolt in" job

[steelbluesleepR]

No you really aren't. They make hybrid drag axles all the time that not only have to withstand 1000+HP for an entire racing season, they have to do it while having the clutch dropped against racing slicks.

When you cut a shaft, the part that is left is STILL solid steel. machine a new end, and voila, an axle that is shorter but just as strong. In fact, theoretically, a shorter shaft would be stronger, because there isn't as much length for the twisting force to act over.

umm... driveshafts are heat treated with a very specific process. welding it will create a weak point right arount the weld area (the heat affected zone, or HAZ). the driveshaft will be weaker than stock, and will very likely have a bend in it at the weld from not being able to get the shaft PERFECTLY straight when welding (not to mention warping). not a good idea any way you look at it.

[Tnwagn]

umm... driveshafts are heat treated with a very specific process. welding it will create a weak point right arount the weld area (the heat affected zone, or HAZ). the driveshaft will be weaker than stock, and will very likely have a bend in it at the weld from not being able to get the shaft PERFECTLY straight when welding (not to mention warping). not a good idea any way you look at it.

Yeah, the "welding" method works, but isn't exactly something I would trust a swap of magnitude with.

Bottom line: Get it made by a quality Custom Driveshaft shop.

[Tnwagn]

Bump one of the most interesting threads on the board. 2 questions:


First: People have mentioned upgrading to the Odyssey knuckles in order to utilize the larger bearing that they use to account for the large amount of power this swap will output.

However, there are plenty of accords on the board running boosted cars with much more power and torque than any of the J-series will put out.

So, to those on this board that have more knowledge than I do, is this a part of the swap that can be overlooked? Or is it something that you would definitely recommend?

EDIT: Looked above at Scott's post and kind of think the Odyssey knuckles are something that can be left off the list.


Second: People have also mentioned upgrading the brakes to deal with the new power that's going to be put out. For stock lx cb7's this is definitely a needed part to the swap.

However, cb9's already have larger brakes with larger calipers. Would this set up, possibly with new rotors and pads, be enough to handle the swap effectively?

[owequitit]

Bump one of the most interesting threads on the board. 2 questions:


First: People have mentioned upgrading to the Odyssey knuckles in order to utilize the larger bearing that they use to account for the large amount of power this swap will output.

However, there are plenty of accords on the board running boosted cars with much more power and torque than any of the J-series will put out.

So, to those on this board that have more knowledge than I do, is this a part of the swap that can be overlooked? Or is it something that you would definitely recommend?

EDIT: Looked above at Scott's post and kind of think the Odyssey knuckles are something that can be left off the list.


Second: People have also mentioned upgrading the brakes to deal with the new power that's going to be put out. For stock lx cb7's this is definitely a needed part to the swap.

However, cb9's already have larger brakes with larger calipers. Would this set up, possibly with new rotors and pads, be enough to handle the swap effectively?

I think the knuckles could be overlooked. From an OEM perspective, they went with larger bearings for more load bearing on the Odyssey, but I don't think it would honestly be a problem.

As for brakes, personally, I recommend ROH for ease of maintenance, and you can then access any ITR or Prelude brake upgrades as you are essentially setup with the same parts. For a stock J series, I think you would be OK with the Prelude 11.2" rotors and a set of aggressive pads. The car is a lot lighter than most of the J series powered cars, and since stopping is based on F=MA, you can either create more force to stop a heavier car, or with lighter mass, an equal force will work better in stopping.

Of course being on the leading edge, you have some experimenting, but personally, my Prelude discs have never struggled to stop the car.

[Tnwagn]

[SuperTuner12010]

Also the thing about the J series compared to the heavily modified boosted h22's and F22's...

The J series has a nice power curve and the reliability is a lot better than any boosted or highly modified engine. I dont care how well the tune is.

There is also the possibility of etting the j37 and with a few bolt ons achieving 300whp and still be reliable as stock. There is also the possibiliity of the comptech supercharger. I dont know what the gains are from that but im sure you could be well over 350whp easily.

[SuperTuner12010]

I wish that were real

[lokuputha]

good stuff...may all our manifestations come true.

[SuperTuner12010]

good stuff...may all our manifestations come true.

It wont be that much longer before its done. I am still going to do the swap...I have been talking with the guys who built the j series crx.

They used a tuned p28, and seeing as how the tuning abilities are there. Thats the way to go. The only other thing that was never officialy figgured out was the mounts, whitch the rear may be bolt on along with the driver side and tranny mount in theory. Although the front mount has to be custom no questions asked. And then how to get the speedometer working...

After I get my H22 in I will start saving up for this swap

[Tnwagn]

It wont be that much longer before its done. I am still going to do the swap...I have been talking with the guys who built the j series crx.

They used a tuned p28, and seeing as how the tuning abilities are there. Thats the way to go. The only other thing that was never officialy figgured out was the mounts, whitch the rear may be bolt on along with the driver side and tranny mount in theory. Although the front mount has to be custom no questions asked. And then how to get the speedometer working...

After I get my H22 in I will start saving up for this swap

How in the world did they use a p28?

I'm going to go ahead and say that all the mounts are going to have to be custom.

[SuperTuner12010]

How in the world did they use a p28?

I'm going to go ahead and say that all the mounts are going to have to be custom.

They got an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness plugged in a p28 and tuned with I think crome pro.

I cant be sure what program they used I have it all in an email I will go look later. But crome pro has the ability to add cylinders...