CB7 V6 Swap Parts List & Methods

[Tnwagn]

I cant wait...I want a K'd coupe and a V6 Wagon....

Fuck that, I'd rather buy a Lexus (given the time and money needed to do the swaps it's probably comparable).

Anyway, here is what I got. The engine bays of the two cars I looked at are fully loaded so it is difficult to see exactly what the hell is going in with the mounts. I can get a general idea of where they are and their size.

First, the V6 engine bay mounts

Passenger's Side Mount






Driver's side Mount


Front Mount


Now the 4 cylinder mounts (F22B)

Driver's side mounts


Front Mount


Driver's side again




I have measurements but I am fairly sure that they aren't going to work.

[SuperTuner12010]

It looks like the side mounts are exactly the same. Or almost at least.

So im guessing that those 2 mounts might bolt up, and the rear mount also looks very similiar.

Although the front mount...I think that may need to be custom...

[Tnwagn]

It looks like the side mounts are exactly the same. Or almost at least.

So im guessing that those 2 mounts might bolt up, and the rear mount also looks very similiar.

Although the front mount...I think that may need to be custom...

Almost is very far from exactly. This isn't a part I would take lightly or go to beating with a hammer to make it fit. I'm not ready to rule out anything, but I'm sure as hell not going to say that anything is the same until I either am told that by a reputable source are actually get in an empty bay for myself.

And yeah, front mount is going to have to be custom. That's the only one I'm willing to actually go ahead and put on paper.

[owequitit]

Ok something else im going to be needing, my car is an auto...

So I know I will need the clutch master clyinder and the pedal assembly. What esle am I going to need though? I know I will be using the 6 speed shifter assembly, will the one from a cl bolt up? As well as the 6 speed shifter cables.

Im just not sure whay parts I need for the hudralic part of it...Thanks

You want to be 1st and dive headlong into this. You are going to have to figure 90% of it out, because it has never been done before.

You are asking detail question that nobody has the answer to, because it has never been done. That leads me to believe that perhaps you should not tear your car up. It is going to very much be an expensive, long, and tedious process developed by trial and error.

We can't answer the questions that you are asking.

[OwninUSince1902]

The easiest way to figure out what you need is to either get a donor car so that you will have almost everything that you will need. Almost nothing on this swap is going to bolt up easy and whats harder is you have no reference because it hasn't been done.

[lokuputha]

Lets get a Honda parts guy on this, I am pretty sure Tommi can help us out with matching parts and finding out critical dimensions.

[Tnwagn]

Lets get a Honda parts guy on this, I am pretty sure Tommi can help us out with matching parts and finding out critical dimensions.

Yeah, Tommi get your ass in here

But even still, I think this kind of project calls for a donor car. Even one that is wrecked all to hell, just something with a decent engine bay. After the engine is in place, a lot of these other questions are going to get figured out or you will see exactly what will or won't work.

[SuperTuner12010]

Im going to use my car...Fit the engine in there, and do everything.

In the mean time Il be driving my brothers civic or if I can get my z6 mini me in my other civic I could drive that. Im not worried about not being able to drive it.

The mounts shouldnt be to hard, The side mounts ook very similiar, although cutting them out and rewelding them or making new brackets wouldnt be a problem.

The wiring is going to be very time consuming but shouldnt be too hard.Just to clarify, the J-series is an OBD2 so all I will need is the conversion harness for like $100 and then repin the J-series harness into the stock accords harness, and then run anyadditional wires.

Custom axles shoulkdnt be too expensive either.

Spindels are still getting to me, has anyone put the oddysey spindels on there car? That way both cv shaft sides will have the same spine count and diamiter. Then only custom length shafts will be needed. New rims would be needed if the oddysey spindels are used because of the 5-lug. I think 16's are the smallest wheels that will fit so that should all work out fine.

Someone was saying that the cb7's tach might not work, how might we go about fixing this?

These are the only things im really wondering about....Thansk guys...I guess the shifter problems and the hydralic stuff can be gotten at a junk yard...

[owequitit]

Im going to use my car...Fit the engine in there, and do everything.

In the mean time Il be driving my brothers civic or if I can get my z6 mini me in my other civic I could drive that. Im not worried about not being able to drive it.

The mounts shouldnt be to hard, The side mounts ook very similiar, although cutting them out and rewelding them or making new brackets wouldnt be a problem.

The wiring is going to be very time consuming but shouldnt be too hard.Just to clarify, the J-series is an OBD2 so all I will need is the conversion harness for like $100 and then repin the J-series harness into the stock accords harness, and then run anyadditional wires.

Custom axles shoulkdnt be too expensive either.

Spindels are still getting to me, has anyone put the oddysey spindels on there car? That way both cv shaft sides will have the same spine count and diamiter. Then only custom length shafts will be needed. New rims would be needed if the oddysey spindels are used because of the 5-lug. I think 16's are the smallest wheels that will fit so that should all work out fine.

Someone was saying that the cb7's tach might not work, how might we go about fixing this?

These are the only things im really wondering about....Thansk guys...I guess the shifter problems and the hydralic stuff can be gotten at a junk yard...

The Odyssey knuckles fit fine. 15" wheels will clear them. The brakes are only 11.2" in diameter, and they came stock with 15" wheels.

[owequitit]

What size are our stock brakes. Either way I will need 5lug wheels. But my brother just got new rims again on his mazda 3 and is going to give me those util I have the money to spend on rims and tires..

The thing is they are 18" with low pros, not sure of the offset...Im hoping they will fit with my neuspeeds springs on there...

10.2" and the tach uses a pulsed signal just like any other Honda tach. The issue will probably come in that it reads incorrectly because the engine is a 6 cylinder and the tach (or ECU) is designed to read a 4 cylinder. Since it goes based on the number of spark events, it would indicate incorrectly. I think it would indicate higher with a V6.

Of course, if you figure out a way to use a V6 ECU, such as the AEM one for the NSX, it would probably be fine.

[chessboxer]

If the v6 is obd1, you could use our new pnp full standalone to run it.
/shameless self plug.
The stock ecu reads 4 different signals to determine engine position and rpm. Crank position(obd1 distributors have 24 teeth on them), tdc no. 1 cyl, and tdc for each cyl. I dont know which combination of these the stock ecu uses to determine rpm, but I know how an aftermarket unit like a haltech reads it.
It will utilize a home signal, which is the tdc #1 cylinder, and also it will utilize the crank sensor to know where exactly the engine is durings its rotation. Each time it sees a home signal, it knows that the engine has completed 1 full rotation. It uses the crank sensor and the teeth on it to know when to fire, and based upon the offset of the teeth and the trigger angle, it knows when to fire.
Regardless, the point is that it will read rpm based on two things, the home signal and the crank sensor. If the stock ecu is setup to read 1 home signal and 4 events for the cylinders, but is instead seeing 6 events, and as mr quit it stated, it is not going to read correctly. This is one of the hardest things to setup when dealing with full standalones.
Its late, and I inhaled a lot of fumes at work today, so I appologize if this post makes no sense.
Holla!

[SuperTuner12010]

Like Owequitit stated, you really are asking questions we can't answer.


Don't forget that any OBD2 J series ECU is likely to have an immobilizer, and you are going to have to work around that.

An immobilizer? What is it exactly?

[SuperTuner12010]

Ok after googling a bit I found out how they work on the newer cars...I think getting the immobilizer on our cars to work would be a lot harder. I was thinking about it but a few kill switches and a good alarm should take care of security issues so Im not worried about it.

I read on a lude forum that a guy got an ECU and H22ax from a 99 prelude. He took the chip off of his ECU anbd the one off the new ECU and resoldered his old immobilizer onto his new ECU and that worked for him...So im guessing if we just removed the chip entirely that will hopefully take care of it.

Im going to go read if anyone has bypassed it before ad I will be back on to tell everyone...

[SuperTuner12010]

After reading, to have the immobilizer you would have to run the wires from the ECU to the ignition.

How would we do this? You would need the ECU with the corresponding key that hold the code.

Fit the immoblizer into around the ignition, and take the key apart, and take out the device it uses.

I remember seeing somewere they put a honda key into a toyota corolas key, which has the alarm part. You could do that or something similiar and put te immobilzer device into it.

Although I dont know how hard it would be to get the key with the ECU. It would be nearly impossible. And if you were to run a different ECU you might run into the same problem again.

[SuperTuner12010]

Do you think it would be possible to take the ECU to the dealer and give them my key, get a blank from them with an immobilizer in it and have them program the key for the ECU?

I know we have some certified honda mechanics on here. Can you tell me if this would be possible?