i cant get it in the hole H23 tranny swap

[Turbo Dave]

Ok so im swapping in an h23 tranny in my car *5spd* and i heard something about using a brick and some wood pieces or something to hold up the engine level however that prevents me from being able to get an angle on sliding the tranny in.

i know im supposed to turn the crankshaft when pushing the shaft in but i cant get an angle on it, im coming from underneath as well.

i thought thier was a wright up on how to do this but i cant seem to find it. any advice?

[trickedaccord92]

hmmm i dont know ill be doing my h23 tranny swap next week but im pulling the whole motor out and putting it on a hoist like i did when i put my last tranny on down in florida

by the wya what motor are you putting it on? mine is going on a h22

[zeroice]

swapping the tranny while the motor is in is hard, but can be done, you have the let the motor down some so you can get the tranny in there, you have to turn and twist is some till you get it in there and then like the splines up it isnt fun doing it with the motor still in the car you just have to work with it... goodluck

[Turbo Dave]

yeah mine is going on an h22.

i pretty much knew it was gonna be a pain in the ass. maybe i should just drop most of the entire motor down enough to put in th tranny shit then ill still need a chery picker. danm this is gonna be a pain in the ass.

[WiKKeDV16]

LOL.. told ya u should of waited for me..

since u got the stocker out.. then im assuming u have the tranny mount and the front dogbone mount lose/out?

that should be more than enough room to get it back in there.. please dont bend the spline.. lol.. would make ur tranny worthless.. did u get the new throwout bearing like i told ya?

[trickedaccord92]

yeah im gonna yank my hole motor since when it was put in the car the previouse owner didnt much care for looks he just wanted it in to drive ... little did i know at the time that i would eventually end up in this car so i figure ill pull the hole motor out clean it up paint the block, strip and repaint the valve cover, clean the engine bay do some rewiring so it looks cleaner. basicly doing everything that wasnt done originally that should have been done properly. You cant rush perfection which is why it took me 3 weeks to do everything i wanted with my other swap before actually putting it in. Sorry i got a bit off topic but if your gonna use a cherry picker i would say just go ahead and pull the engine i feel it is much easier that way other wise you are probably gonna be wresting with it for a while trying to get the splines to line up.

[Turbo Dave]

this is killing me man i got it in but everytime i get one bolt in the other wont lign up and i got to take it out to get the others in....

advice help im a horrible noob.

[d112crzy]

get the shaft in, wiggle the bitch around and get it all the way in.

It should go ALL the way on before you even start putting bolts in.

DO NOT pull the tranny and engine together by tightening the bolts.

[dbsharp]

like d112 said do not pull the tranny to the motor with bolts. I pulled the tranny about 1/4 inch to the motor when I first did my auto -> manual swap, and it made my clutch go out of alignment. it was almoast undriveable, and now my clutch is about the worst clutch Ive ever seen as far as chattering goes. I should make a video of it. I found that with the slave cylinder off and with one of the studs off, my transmission goes on and off alot smoother with the motor in the car.

[trah]

Ahh i did this when I changed out my clutch on my F22 and it was a B!TCH to do basically what you need to do is level back your engine with a jack and have a 2x4 on top so it waont damage the oil pan/oil pan gasket.(you don't need to take out the wishbone aka front motor mount to do this). ok after that get the tranny in the space between the motor and the wall on the left side of the car let is sit on the radius rod i think thats what is called. after taht have someone on the bottom and have someone on the top to look at it. since I'm assuming you used the alignment tool you should have space to plug it in. the trick is to have the bottom guy hold the back of the tranny and you hold the tranny hole ( remove the started and use that hole to grab it) after that place the 2 hole pings and get it in a little bit. after that you would have to pull up on the tranny and he wouold push up on the back and wiggle the SOB around until it will get about 1-1.5 inches in then get all of your front bolts and bolt them on and ALIGHN it get all 4 on the get the 2 or 3 on the back. then little by little tightening each one inch by inch and that should make it aligned. let me know if you need any other help

[trah]

like d112 said do not pull the tranny to the motor with bolts. I pulled the tranny about 1/4 inch to the motor when I first did my auto -> manual swap, and it made my clutch go out of alignment. it was almoast undriveable, and now my clutch is about the worst clutch Ive ever seen as far as chattering goes. I should make a video of it. I found that with the slave cylinder off and with one of the studs off, my transmission goes on and off alot smoother with the motor in the car.

did you use OEM throw-out bearing if not thats your problem with the chattering. even if you use the throwout bearing from a clutch kit it will vibrate and chatter like a MOFO even the freaking Nachi brand from Exedy did this and NACHI makes the same throwout bearing for honda i dunno maybe honda Packs in more grease hell if i kno. Also if you don't use the OEM slave clutch cylinder it would make a high as$ squeal since it won't add enough pressure as the OEM one

[japspecb7]

heres how i did mine, take down both side axles and half shaft. crossmember and bolt off the rear bracket off the tranny should be two 17mm. take out the starter and the remaining tranny bolts and pull off the tranny while the is on jackstands. when putting it in just lower the tranny side i shimmy it on. for the s.cables just bolt out the bracket that holds it to the tranny, 3 10mm. and of course the pins, and bolt off the dampner hose, one 12mm.

[heylookitsdylan]

i just finished putting mine in tonight and i had to have my dad turn the crank pulley back and fourth while i kicked the shit out of it twards the motor.

[dbsharp]

I was using an aftermarket TO bering, but im using a oem one now. made no diference, except the aftermarket TO bering was making noise after 5k miles.

[Turbo Dave]

this bitch just wont go in, when i put her in, the bolts on the block lign up somewhat, but the rear mount dont at all.

so i bolted the rear mount in, but it wont slide in or line up.