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    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote
    To get the tranny back in, you have to lower the engine a bit... loosen the mounts and support the engine under the oil pan with a jack (and something to pad it... cpmike and I used a good book). Once the engine is low enough to allow the transmission to clear the side, it'll go right in place. The splines of the input shaft probably won't be perfect, so get someone to turn the crank pulley slowly counter-clockwise while you push it in. It should slide right in then. It took me and Mikey 3 hours of benchpressing and cursing to learn that... then we got his mother out to turn the crank. It was back on in 5 minutes.
    Even just changing the clutch on my car (born a 5spd) I had alot of trouble using a trans. jack...it just got in the way most of the time...after struggling for about 5 hours by my self, I lost my temper and got a friend to help me manhandle the tranny in (no jack)...it only took like 5 mins at that point. If you do what deevergote says and turn the crank to line up the splines (good idea) make sure you lock the tranny into a gear so that the input shaft is not so likely to keep spinning while you turn the engine. after you get it in, put it back in neutral.
    "I can imagine no more rewarding a career. And any man who may be asked in this century what he did to make his life worthwhile, I think I can respond with a good deal of pride and satisfaction: 'I served in the United States Navy." --President John F. Kennedy



    ASE Master Automotive Technician
    ASE Master Med/Heavy Truck Technician
    US Navy Electrician
    Contact me if you need help on the side.
    '92 Accord DX (For Sale)
    '01 Civic LX
    '00 Tahoe

    Greatest Rally Video Ever

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      #17
      ya the trannys are the worst thing, i bought my car with no clutch from what i was told, than after taking a couple of very flustraiting days to figure how to get it off and then back on after a brand new clutch was put in i started it up and it put it in gear and it still didnt go nowhere -the tranny was bad!!! so i had to buy another tranny and replace the old one, this was by far the most flustraiting thing i had ever done on a car...BTW loosening the motor mounts really does help, never had to rotate the crank pulley tho

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by deevergote
        To get the tranny back in, you have to lower the engine a bit... loosen the mounts and support the engine under the oil pan with a jack (and something to pad it... cpmike and I used a good book). Once the engine is low enough to allow the transmission to clear the side, it'll go right in place. The splines of the input shaft probably won't be perfect, so get someone to turn the crank pulley slowly counter-clockwise while you push it in. It should slide right in then. It took me and Mikey 3 hours of benchpressing and cursing to learn that... then we got his mother out to turn the crank. It was back on in 5 minutes.

        yeah i did plenty of cussing and resting inbetween for about 3 hrs. this is whats holding me up now. i can't do the axles. i am doing this all by myself and don't really have help. the tranny isn't to heavy. its the shape that makes it hard. the shifter arm keeps getting in my way so i zip tied it down. i assume its in the middle. the arm pushes in and out a little. so do i untie the arm and move it back or foward to prevent the shaft from moving. what about the mount. i paritally had the tranny in but i forgot about the mount. do i install the mount on the tranny and put it in or have the mount already on the bracket. i was gonna take the studs out and have the bracket already on the bracket. whats the easiest way. i will try again tonight. also i bolted the top rear mount bolt. do i need to take this out and try again. is this making it harder. and which mounts need to be loosedl. the only one seems like would make a difference is the drivers mount. the rear and front don't have a north and south bolt.
        Last edited by flight50; 12-27-2006, 06:28 PM.
        91 Ex CB9
        JDM h22 auto swap, now w/H23 5spd conversion, short ram intake w/K&N filter, DC ceramic header, 2.25" custom catback exhaust, AMR Engineering coilovers, 205/50/16's Enkei RS5's, front slotted rotors, Xenon body kit.

        W.I.P.
        p72 ecu on Hondata

        To Come
        Weight Reductions
        R33 or R34 front end

        Comment


          #19
          okay. scratch my previous post. i got it. i think i always had it. i was getting it close to the dowel pins and was almost there yesterday. today, i had just enough strenght to try it all over again. so i pull the tranny down, after i loosened a few bolts but i level out my engine being support under the oil pan. i got it right against the dowel pins. i think its too tight to muscle on to the pins so i used the housing bolts to get the tranny onto the dowel pins and it worked. even though i had to muscle the thing up, i don't think i really forced it into the clutch. how would i know if i did. will the clutch not grap or would i hear a clunk when i try to start it or will the car just not move. considering the tranny works. i don't really know the condition on the tranny. i got it from a guy on ebay who said it was pulled running from his freinds car. so i had to use it to see if its any good.

          anyways now i just have to get the bolt into the tranny mount some how. seems as though the whole motor needs to shift about 3/4-1" to the drivers side. i know the crank pully is suppose to be a pretty tight. right now i think i have about 1/2-3/4" clearance.
          91 Ex CB9
          JDM h22 auto swap, now w/H23 5spd conversion, short ram intake w/K&N filter, DC ceramic header, 2.25" custom catback exhaust, AMR Engineering coilovers, 205/50/16's Enkei RS5's, front slotted rotors, Xenon body kit.

          W.I.P.
          p72 ecu on Hondata

          To Come
          Weight Reductions
          R33 or R34 front end

          Comment


            #20
            I haven't done one in awhile, but I think I remember using a long pry bar to grab the tail end of the tranny and pry against the fender (use a 2x4 in between) and that should give you the clearance you are looking for. Do not pinch the clutch hydraulic lines.
            "I can imagine no more rewarding a career. And any man who may be asked in this century what he did to make his life worthwhile, I think I can respond with a good deal of pride and satisfaction: 'I served in the United States Navy." --President John F. Kennedy



            ASE Master Automotive Technician
            ASE Master Med/Heavy Truck Technician
            US Navy Electrician
            Contact me if you need help on the side.
            '92 Accord DX (For Sale)
            '01 Civic LX
            '00 Tahoe

            Greatest Rally Video Ever

            Comment


              #21
              oh okay. that makes sense. and seems as though it will do the trick perfectly. now i can't wait to try that. won't be til saturday when i get back to it. for the most part this swap has been time consuming but very very fun to do alone. I am also install my new coilovers at the same time though. a friend helping can speed up the process though.
              91 Ex CB9
              JDM h22 auto swap, now w/H23 5spd conversion, short ram intake w/K&N filter, DC ceramic header, 2.25" custom catback exhaust, AMR Engineering coilovers, 205/50/16's Enkei RS5's, front slotted rotors, Xenon body kit.

              W.I.P.
              p72 ecu on Hondata

              To Come
              Weight Reductions
              R33 or R34 front end

              Comment

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