Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

H22/h23 build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    H22/h23 build

    Iv asked many similar questions about this and i just want to make sure what would be best.

    I have a full h22 in the car now that has a warped cylinder. It has alot of blow by and has low oil pressure. It has never ran right from the start.

    I recently purchased a full assembled h23a closed deck bottom end. It has some km's on it and i decided to rebuilt the h23 bottom end and put the h22 vtec head on it. Id be putting new rod bearings in, headgasket, rings and a hone.

    I have done alot of reading and im getting mixed answers about it where ever i ask. the h23 should handle the same rpms as the h22 as long as i put the oil squirters in the h23 block.

    My main questions is. Should i do the h23 vtec build or should i just take the h22 block thats in the car now, bore it .20 over and rebuild it.
    The h22 block was boosted and i am almost certain one of the cyl walls is out of round.

    The h23 block looks mint and from what i heard worked perfect.

    i just havent done anythin lik this before and would like to make sure i do the right thing.

    Thanks
    Adam
    1990 h22 accord ex-r

    #2
    oil squirters wont save you. having it properly tuned and timed will.

    h23 vtec. do it.

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

    Comment


      #3
      yes just put the oil suriters in and MAKE SURE YOU TAKE OUT THE OIL JET FROM THE BLOCK (the one in the center top of the block if you don't vtec will not work right and you will have vtec codes
      da9b16 is a great seller very quick shipping and great parts

      Comment


        #4
        really? i thought the oil squirters will help it handle the higher revs. it would be tuned and set up by one of the best local engine builder/tuner.

        i mean the h22 limiter is 7800. i wont be too upset if i loose like 500rpm but i dont wanna risk blowing it up. id love to be able to take it to atleist 7200rpm just so if i do by chance over rev it i dont break the crank.

        i just want it to be a reliable build.
        1990 h22 accord ex-r

        Comment


          #5
          it should be able to take 7200rpms as long as timing is good.

          oil squirters aid in cooling the pitons/rods.

          do you know what causes main/rod bearings to go out? and it has nothing to do with oil.

          CrzyTuning now offering port services

          Comment


            #6
            Having built Frank motors, and being friends with Shadetree customs. there have been long conversations on how to keep the frank motors alive. they seem to keep spinning the bearings, we feel that it is due to a lack of oil pressure. the next franks that roll out of our shops will have high volume oil pumps in an attempt to help with the reliability of the motor. so i would suggest start there.
            Out in the driveway building something

            Comment


              #7
              ya. ill see if i can find a good oil pump
              1990 h22 accord ex-r

              Comment


                #8
                If I were in your shoes; in addition to what you are doing with the oil pump and squirters I would also get custom pistons ( forged) with a smaller pin bore and a higher compression height so you can use a rod the same length or longer than the H22's.
                Life is wide, limitless. There is no border, no frontier ~ Bruce
                My Page!

                Comment


                  #9
                  the f22 h23 and f23 all have a longer stoke than the h22 and depending on you plans for the motor you might wanna go with a lower comp piston
                  F22A1:blew up
                  F22A1/H22:blew up
                  F22A6/H22: " "
                  F22A4/H22: " "
                  H23A1 boosted:blew up
                  H23A1:traded
                  H23A1/H22 built:still in progress (getting my feet wet)

                  drive it like you stole it
                  FCB7(FRANKENSTEIN CB7 CLUB)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    how about you take the h23 block and transfer the h22 crank and head over to it and get some forged slugs and rods? your gonna boost the motor right?

                    "do you know what causes main/rod bearings to go out? and it has nothing to do with oil." so if I were to drain the oil out of my motor my bearings would not get damaged if I ran it any decent amount?
                    spin city

                    Comment


                      #11
                      it has everything to do with oil were starving them of oil not enough volume
                      F22A1:blew up
                      F22A1/H22:blew up
                      F22A6/H22: " "
                      F22A4/H22: " "
                      H23A1 boosted:blew up
                      H23A1:traded
                      H23A1/H22 built:still in progress (getting my feet wet)

                      drive it like you stole it
                      FCB7(FRANKENSTEIN CB7 CLUB)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I know the H23 needs oil squirters, but i was also told that the crank of the H23 was also a weak link. Is that true?
                        Vouches: Bruno8747, 1badwag, Excalibur02, Bliz07, Slick, Gloryaccordy, H23CB7.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          its only a weak link if you rev the piss out of it.
                          but i wouldnt rev past 7200rpm.

                          it doesnt NEED oil squirters, that only aids in cooling from the bottom. Just dont starve it of oil or go too aggressive on the timing.

                          CrzyTuning now offering port services

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X