planning an H swap obd1 to obd2

[ukemike]

If you follow my racing thread you'll know that we ran our f22 really really hot at the last race. We are looking for a replacement engine. I have found a 1998 prelude with an h22a4 2010125 that is not doesn't have the ATTS. It was recently in a fender bender that bent the front clip, radiator, hood, fenders, and broke the lights, so it is for sale for cheap. I think the engine has been driven calmly, but I don't think the maintenance has been super diligent. The outside of the motor is oily.
I like the idea of getting the whole car because then ALL of the wire harness, ecu, sensors, and accessories are there. It'll be hard because it'll be more than just a bolt in engine swap. Ah, also the donor car has an automatic transmission, while we will keep our current manual transmission.

Thoughts? Am I missing something? Is there something else I should be aware of before pulling the trigger?

[SSMAccord]

The only real concern would be if it has abnormal oil consumption that would be problematic for long term reliability. You’ll also need to consider how to maintain oil pressure for track use. Accusump is likely the best route as the baffled pans available seem to have mixed reviews.

[Raf99]

I think you'll always have a check engine light on as the body harness doesn't have all the OBDII stuff. From what i remember it's knock sensor, oil pressure sensor in a different spot, and of course emissions related wiring. I'm also thinking the engine is already 30 years old. Best to do the oil pump and other stuff too. And agree with SSMAccord, an baffled pan is a must. Personally I'd hold out and just get a OBD1 H22. Easier to hook up (3 extra wires) + other small items.

[ukemike]

Turned out that the prelude's h22a4 had low compression on cylinder 3. I didn't buy it. If someone else stumbles on this thread in the future the h22a4 preludes had an immobilizer that could be bypassed, but it would still be an extra hassle. It is NOT the same immobilizer as most hondas. It is inline on the body harness, and so is easier to bypass than the chip-on-board immobilizers.


H22s have gotten really expensive. Now I am looking at other options. F20Bs seem to be a price to performance sweet spot. Still the different obd challenges, injector challenges, and I think these had an immobilizer in the ecu. I hear you can remove the chip but that you'll have a CEL forever if you do. I'm now going to start trying to learn about f20b swaps. But I wonder if tracking down a donor cb7 is in my future.