Also check your compression bro. I bought a jdm f20 and it didnt have shit for compression. I ran around kinda like how you are now and it ended up being a shit motor. I wouldnt spend much more money until you figure out what the compression is at.
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i spliced the black and black/yellow wire together on the coil plug...all my grounds should be good...i put them all back on...i havent checked my fuses or the compression yet...if the compression is bad what do i need? rings? or is the motor bad? could i check compression my self?Comment
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if u have bad compression it could be valve seals or usually your rings, or worst case your pistons but not unless the valves hit them in that case your engine is shit but that's proly not the case. ----u can go to advanced or some carshop and tell em you need a compression meter/tester.Originally posted by accord93racer
--i pick up my engine today (h22a w/lsd) and i think im more scared that its not gonna be in as gooda shape (low miles) as i was told than how hard its gonna be to put in
who needs a manual anyway
JDM is the way to play, all day every dayComment
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bad compression does NOT = NO spark......
No spark = fuses, ecu fuses, ecu, no ground on engine harness etc...
what do you mean you spliced the coil plug wires? Not for ground I hope.... that does NOT ground the engine harness..... check your ecu fuse under the hood too and oh yeah last but not least.... check your ecu for codes????
WAGONS
94 ce1- f22b DOHC auto swap, ROH 11.1" 99 cl brakes, rear disk swap, dual plenums, aem cai, tein ss, OEM stanley one piecers, OEM stanley yellow fogs, OEM 96 Oddy roof rack, Yakima basketcase, some wheels, some tires.... etc.Comment
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Just because you bought a brand new distributor doesn't mean it works
You'd be surprised how many parts come brand new especially electronics that are bad parts
Start from one end of the circuit and work backwards, check your plugs(condition), wires(resistance), cap(resistance, condition), rotor(condition), coil(resistance secondary and primary), Ignitor(voltage to, voltage out, reference signal, resistance)crank/cam sensor (this one is fun, bust out back probes and probe the blue wire of the 3 prong connector coming from yoru dizzy with a circuit tester, check for a flashing reference signal during crank) connector, fuses, If none of the above tast badly, check all your wires and their condition, check your grounds, and finally your ecu.
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ive never done an engine swap before and it only took me like 3 days to get the f22 out and the h22 in...thats pretty much by myself...as long as you have the tools handy and the manuals handy it wont be that hard...Originally posted by AccLuDe12x2if u have bad compression it could be valve seals or usually your rings, or worst case your pistons but not unless the valves hit them in that case your engine is shit but that's proly not the case. ----u can go to advanced or some carshop and tell em you need a compression meter/tester.
--i pick up my engine today (h22a w/lsd) and i think im more scared that its not gonna be in as gooda shape (low miles) as i was told than how hard its gonna be to put inComment
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I'm not saying that buddy. I'm saying that he can have all the spark he wants but if his motor doesnt have significant compression then it will not run. You can rent a compression tester from you local automotive store. Checking your compression really isnt hard. You just disable the igniton system and remove a spark plug. Thread the compression tester into the spark plug threads. Crank the engine and record reading. Repeat process on each cylinder. Compare results to factory spec.Originally posted by da9b16Comment
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