H22 swap is killin the wallet

[JDMa22ord]

so i get EVERYTHING done this weekend and pull out of the garage and notice that the clutch disengages really late...so i take off down the road and everything works good(shifts good, sounds good, no codes)...after driving for a while i decide to hit VTEC and the damn clutch sticks!!!!! it just revs up when WOT so i take the tranny out and remove the clutch and pressure plate and both were in bad shape. the clutch had very little pad left....moral of the story is that when doing a swap, be prepared to dig into the wallet (i mean way more than just the cost of the swap)!!!

anyone have an H22 clutch kit for sale? let me know ASAP please

[Ilikebigbutts]

so you did a swap w/ out even checking the clutch?sorry man but

xtd sell pretty good 12lb flywheel plus stage 1 clutch kit for pretty fair price at 230 shipped found on ebay.I'm running it and its a pretty good setup.

ILBB

[DhN]

thats your fault homie


anyone witt common sense doing a swap..needs to be prepared./.and this is for any project

[NAiL05]

A new clutch is a definite whenever doing a swap same as seals and redo timing since motor is already out of car and its safer to do that IMO. But yea XTD sells a stage 3 and a 12lb fly for like 260 or something like that just go on ebay.com and type in Prelude XTD Clutch Kit or Prelude XTD CLutch something like that. That should help you out.

[phatdoughnut]

so i get EVERYTHING done this weekend and pull out of the garage and notice that the clutch disengages really late...so i take off down the road and everything works good(shifts good, sounds good, no codes)...after driving for a while i decide to hit VTEC and the damn clutch sticks!!!!! it just revs up when WOT so i take the tranny out and remove the clutch and pressure plate and both were in bad shape. the clutch had very little pad left....moral of the story is that when doing a swap, be prepared to dig into the wallet (i mean way more than just the cost of the swap)!!!

anyone have an H22 clutch kit for sale? let me know ASAP please

like everyone else said. Anyone who knows what they are doing, will even replace the clutch if its halfway bad just because it is out and can be done easyer.

and duh for the second part, everone also knows that the swap isnt gona cost as much as the swap, there is so many parts that need to be replaced anyways for the warrenty to be inplace from most of the importers..

This warranty applies to USED, JDM and USDM motors only...

All motors sold on hmotorsonline.com come with a 100% start-up warranty only and is sold as is.
Motors come with all sensors intact unless noted or notified to the customer or ad description.
Start up warranty is only valid on USED, JDM & USDM motors and is unconditional when changing the following engine components:- spark plugs, spark plug wires (leads), rotor, timing belt, water pump and tension pulley. All of the previously mentioned have to be changed on JDM & USDM motors to become legible for the 100% start-up warranty.
The startup warranty is only vald if the engine is installed within 30 days of delivery.
Purchaser/user assumes all costs and risk to the motor and components if prior mentioned items were not changed, the 100% start-up warranty becomes void.
H.M.O reserves the right to change this warranty at any time without any prior consent or notification.

[koolkoreanked]

Wow you guys are harsh... You live and learn I guess. At least you saved on labor by doing it yourself.

[phatdoughnut]

How are we harsh? isnt that why everyone hates doing the H swap? cause its so expensive? well yes and no, if you want to do it the right way yes, if not then i guess it wont be AS expensive.

atleast he didnt damage his motor.

[NAiL05]

How are we harsh? isnt that why everyone hates doing the H swap? cause its so expensive? well yes and no, if you want to do it the right way yes, if not then i guess it wont be AS expensive.

atleast he didnt damage his motor.

Thats true. Yes doing yourself will save on labor costs. Replacing the seals and all are easy with the motor out and timing. If you wanna do a manual tensioner conversion for the H now is the best time to do it. But with the motor in thats a different story its harder than with the motor out obviously. But still it should have been common sense to replace those items. You never know how long the engine has been sitting in the warehouse so things go bad.

[Blk EX Coupe]

So whats a good amount of "just incase" money to have saved on the side when doing a swap?

[wed3k]

if i didnt sell my clutch kit to a local, i would've sold it to ya for like 40 shipped.

[OnE eYe GuY]

a good amount of just in case money? enough money to seperately buy every piece of your swap again.

[deevergote]

When swapping in a used engine, you're dealing with used components. Things like the clutch, belts, sparkplugs, distributor cap and rotor, CV boots, various gaskets and seals, vacuum hoses, mounts, etc... the list is quite long. Each component requires at least a thorough check to make sure it's capable of doing its job. Run through a list of things that get worn with age (within reason... the pistons get worn with age, but I don't expect the weekend swapper to check those!) Determine what is most in need of replacement, and spend your money accordingly. Most of that stuff is cake to do on a motor when it's out of the car, so why not?

[tweeaks]

$3500 covered my swap from HMO. I ordered only the motor and used an F22 tranny though. This price included JDM h22, JDM ECU, XTD clutch and flywheel, all seals and replaced, water pump replaced, timing belt replaced, H23 tensioner, ngk wires and platinum plugs rotor and dist cap replaced, basically everything thats easy to do while out of the car and a pita while in the car, this also includes the 5 speed parts car I used for the auto->manual swap. I had to buy a new master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch dampner as the parts on the parts car were bad. Everything was replaced with OEM stuff. This doesn't include the extra i'm out for my exhaust setup. I used the JDM header, had to order the downpipe. The cat didn't bolt up so I had to order a prelude which to my surprise also doesn't bolt up. And the catback I had to order. Don't forget oil and fluids oil filter which will run another ~$50-$75 if using OEM or another quality oil and tranny fluid. Then just to be safe I drained all of the fluids after~150 miles and replaced them and the oil filter. Alltogether I spent over $4K and I am still F22 trannying it.....

[NAiL05]

When swapping in a used engine, you're dealing with used components. Things like the clutch, belts, sparkplugs, distributor cap and rotor, CV boots, various gaskets and seals, vacuum hoses, mounts, etc... the list is quite long. Each component requires at least a thorough check to make sure it's capable of doing its job. Run through a list of things that get worn with age (within reason... the pistons get worn with age, but I don't expect the weekend swapper to check those!) Determine what is most in need of replacement, and spend your money accordingly. Most of that stuff is cake to do on a motor when it's out of the car, so why not?

Yep what deev said. When my friends and i did my swap i replaced mounts, all belts, water pump, plugs/wires, cap/rotor, Clutch/Flywheel, Changed some parts from the old A6 to the H22 (broken sensors etc etc), All my seals (so much easier with engine out), New Accord Crank Pulley (my old one broke), and t-stat. Id recommend flushing out the motor, pulling off the oil pan and cleaning it out (mine had some filmy stuff inside), Turn the motor with the motor with a 19mm just to check if it aint siezed up, and do a compression test. It sounds overkill but basically you know you have a "new" motor.

[4GAccordH22]

When I did my USDM H22A1 swap (actually, I paid someone to do it), I got new timing belt, water pump, seals, clutch kit, axles, clutch damper and full tune up among other random parts. Then I had to replace the pistons and rods as well for smog purposes. Had to get a new header as mine didn't come with the exhaust manifold or downpipe and I got a new AEM CAI with bypass valve. The valve cover was ugly (painted green and yellow) so I got a clean black one off of ebay. Then there were all the parts to do the auto to manual swap and I ended up doing a full custom exhaust with a new cat. It adds up quickly and you have to be prepared for just about anything, but I found it to be worth all the expense in the end. I now have what amounts to a completely new engine and full drivetrain so I won't have to do anything to it for a long while other than regular maintenance and it runs beautifully!