f22b1 93 accord

[kurtis93]

alright so i got the engine and everything wired up right in my car, now i got one problem, when the engine is cold the idle sits at about 2,000 untill it is warmed up, if i hit the gas pedal the rev will fluctuate. its anoying the crap out of me, i have checked everything but am now down to one last thing i just found on the internet. i heard there is a screw that you can adjust in the fast idle valve to bring the idle down. what do you all think of this?
thanks.

[kurtis93]

tried it

alright, so i twisted the thing down in the fast idle valve and my engine idles at 1500 now when cold but when warmed up the idle will still fluctuate like when i am sitting in park, i know i dont have any vacuum leaks, i cant figure it out. if anyone can put in a word that would be great.

[slammedEX]

i have the same problem but its because my throttle cable is messed up...clean your IACV and check your TPS

[snailin91]

either somethin went wrong with your MAP center hook ups, or your throttel postion sensor could be bad. or maybe your EGR valve is crap. i have the same swap in my 91. kinda a fun lil motor when you get the kinks worked out.

[kurtis93]

map sensor

yeah i still have the firewall mystery box with the map sensor. i was thinking about wiring up the map sensor off of the f22b1 but am not sure. today i will check the tps, i still have the old one from the f22a so i can put that on there, i have tried about two iacv now and they all do the same thing. also one more thing i notice is my rev is really slow and the trottle response isnt what it should be, i think that may have to do with the map sensor. let me know what you guys think.

[kurtis93]

i swaped out the egr valve and the tps, still has the problem with the idle fluctuation and the lag with the thottle response. i wish i knew what was going on. i went to emissions the other day and i am running to rich during idle any ideas?

[ACCLUDE91]

Does your car run cold? Do you have a thermostat installed? Are the radiator fans working correctly? Have you tested the ECT sensor and both ECT switches? It seems like a temperature thing, but it could be a IACV or TPS/MAP thing. I'd check all aspects of the cooling system.

[kurtis93]

My car is running at normal temp, the radiator fans are working correctly. whats the ect sensor and ect switches? i am still thinking its the map sensor because of the lack of throttle response. my timming if right so i know its not that. thanks for the help.

[ACCLUDE91]

I updated this thread with all the correct wiring info:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...698#post305698

Make sure yours is wired the same. I KNOW THIS WIRING IS 100% CORRECT!

As for the MAP, as long as it's plugged into the intake manifold it should be fine. The 4th gen MAP works fine with the B1. Make sure it is wired correctly as listed in the thread above.

Test your TPS. Put the multimeter leads in pins D11 and D22 at the ECU plugs. Withe the ECU plugged in and the key on, engine off, the meter should read .5V when closed and 4.5V at WOT. Adjust the TPS until it reads within this spec and then tighten her down. Make sure that it does not get out of whack when you tighten it down too.

Check all that and get back here with the results.


If your cooling system is working correctly, and the gage works fine too then it's not gonna be ab issue with the ECT sensor or switches so focus on the stuff above.

[kurtis93]

wires

"8.Pin D19 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D20.

9.Pin D21 used to be a shared sensor wire but now goes directly to the MAP sensor. All previous sensors sharing this wire now go to Pin D22"

i am a little confused with this part. with pin d19 did you take off the other sensor wire than the map sensor and put it on d20?

and with d21 did you change the other wires than the map sensor and put them to pin d22?

basically i am wondering if you changed any wiring around, i dont think i am understanding these two steps. thanks for the help

[kurtis93]

i now have the wiring the same i think except for the two steps up above. problems with the engine still are that when warmed up, after i rev the engine it goes back down to about 1,000, then jumps up to 1,500, for a little then back down to idle, 800. and also when warmed up sometimes the idle likes to fluctuate. and i am still having a problem with the reaction of the gas pedal and my tps is set. i am still thinking its in the map sensor area. any ideas? thanks

[ACCLUDE91]

Alright.....the D19-D20 and D21-D22 wiring isn't a big deal. It *should* still work fine. But basically yes, I cut the wires at the map sensor and ran them directly to pins D19 and D21. The old wire that went there (and has other sensors wired to it) was cut and run directly to pins D20 and D22. Shouldn't make a big difference....but it could possibly be the cause of your problems so I think it's worth spending the 10 min. to do it.

If you get a new MAP, keep in mind that the plugs are different between the 4th and 5th gen. I'd get the 5th gen one if you have the old plug laying around otherwise, get the 4th gen one for simplicity but it *should* work fine with either.

Before breaking down and buying a new one, test your current MAP. Probe the signal wire (blu-wht wire I think) with a multimeter. It should read about 2.5 or 3V at idle and about .5V at WOT. It's best to use a vacuum tester instead because you can get accurate readings of the exact voltage per in. Hg but using the engine will give you a rough idea whether it's working right or not. Also make sure the voltage wire reads 5V or close to it (red-wht wire I think).

Otherwise, you might have a subtle vacuum leak somewhere. Or...out of curiousity......does your master cylinder work fine? Any weird brake pedal action or a loose pedal feel? Sometimes that's enough to fluctuate the idle like that.

Sometimes if your car runs slightly cooler than what the ECU "expects" it will fluctuate the idle like that until it senses "proper operating temp" so it may be worth replacing the ECT sensor.

EGR shouldn't cause it.

Startin to run out of ideas.....get back here with any new info you can.

[kurtis93]

now that i think about it, my brake pedal does feel a little funny, i can floor it when i am at a stop, and if i remember right the idle fluctuation is mostly after i have breaked and then put the car in park. hmm. anyway, i will get those wires swaped tommorow and see if its doing any better. let me know what you think about the master cylinder. it was working fine when the old engine was in. sort of wierd dont you think? thanks for the help.

[kurtis93]

i got all of the wiring the same as you now so i know that all of that is good. i checked one thing, my iacv, when i rev the engine when warm the rpms come back down then bounce up and slowly go back to idle. when i unplug the iacv and rev the engine, the rev comes back down and stays down. i think something is fishy here. i know there is nothing in the screen, i wonder whats up. get back to me when you have a chance.
thanks

[ACCLUDE91]

Well, you don't have to have the IACV if you don't mind extremely low revvs durring the warm up period, but I chose to keep it because it gets pretty cold around here. The function of the IACV is controlled by the ECU and bases the IACV operation off the engine temperature (fron the ECT sensor) and also input from the VSS to determine whether you're moving or sitting still. The IACV normally will bounce the idle back up if it sees the RPM's are dropping too rapidly based on the temp and speed so that's normal, but it means that the ECT or VSS may have something to do with it. Beofre replacing any of that, I'd replace the master cylinder. That will deffinitely cause some idle issues. At least your issues is starting to get narrowed down. Get back here with your results after the M.C. is replaced.