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    What else will I need?

    I was just browsing and I found this. Maybe next year I'll be saving enough to get a swap. If I let's say get this one:

    http://www.osakajdmmotors.com/honda/h22a/index.html

    what else will I need? Can I use parts from my F22A6 for it? Just curious.

    Thanks
    + '93 Accord EX - CB7 - Frost White w/ Dark Blue = teh s0ld (ilikebigbutts)

    2006 Cobalt SS - 2004 Monte Carlo SS - 1990 CRX Si

    . Snail Squad .




    #2
    dont order from osaka i have heard bad thing abut them. buy from hmonline
    cb7 sold
    2002 mineral gray mustang gt not stock
    95 accord lx daily driver

    Comment


      #3
      hmonline?

      Comment


        #4
        hmonline.com comes with everthing you need and the garantee start up. I know some of the people on the board have bought from hmoline and they will tell you they do great busniess.
        cb7 sold
        2002 mineral gray mustang gt not stock
        95 accord lx daily driver

        Comment


          #5
          i typed in hmonline.com and i got this medical website:

          HM specializes in business process automation for workers' compensation and auto liability bodily injury medical reimbursement.

          ?

          Comment


            #6
            http://www.hmotorsonline.com/

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah. Osaka is crap (take a look in the Off Topic forum. There's a thread in there about em at the moment...). Their rep sucks, and they are very unprofessional.

              Steve from HMO (hmotorsonline.com) is great. He's a real nice guy, and his prices are the best you can get (from any reputable dealer). He'll even replace any smashed sensors for free (which is good, since the knock sensor almost always breaks in shipping).

              Be sure you get paperwork from him though. I never got mine, and I'll be in trouble if the legality of my engine ever comes into question...

              And don't call on Mondays... they're the busiest for Steve, and he won't be very helpful. Any other day and he's cool.


              You should be looking at like $2400 shipped for the whole swap, and a bit less for the less complete packages. Personally, I think the whole swap is best.

              If you just get the longblock, you'll have to get an ECU somewhere. You could use the Accord transmission for better gas mileage (at a loss of acceleration... longer gearing). The Accord fuel rail can be used, or you can run a custom fuel line for the Prelude one. You can also keep your current exhaust, though a custom flange will be needed for the Accord piping. You're better off with 2.5". I feel like I'm forgetting something... Still, that's the basics. Read the stickies for more detailed info. They're pretty good.






              Comment


                #8
                So Osaka isn't good? Alrighty then. What you're basically saying is that if you buy a "complete" package you basically get everything you need? I heard that if you use the Accord stuff for the Prelude H22A that you'll lose a little bit of power due to the smaller items...such as the header and piping and stuff, correct? If I get a swap I would just be putting a whole new system on it anyway, exhaust that is. Also, I know that a high compression is good for power but sorta makes daily driving worse...is that true? My F22A6 makes an 8:1 and the H22A is a 10:1 I think. How is the H22A for daily drivig and some track days scattered throughout? I heard it's a strong engine. The low end is ok but it has good high end I think. And lastly...how hard is it to put the enging i your car? My uncle has a cherry picker and a bunch of jacks because they rescently built a Cobra...that should help a little.

                Let me know!
                + '93 Accord EX - CB7 - Frost White w/ Dark Blue = teh s0ld (ilikebigbutts)

                2006 Cobalt SS - 2004 Monte Carlo SS - 1990 CRX Si

                . Snail Squad .



                Comment


                  #9
                  the swap is strait forward you use all the accord mounts and the motor drops right in the only modification that is need is to the trans mount which has to be drilled and tap the match up to the accord tranny mount. As for the wiring you use the accord wiring harness and extend a few wires but you have to ad 4 wires for vtec. you use the accord axles too but it rather easy from what i hear i will atempt it when i get some money together. here is a link for some swap info on wiring and stuff
                  http://board.hondasociety.com/showthread.php?t=61998

                  also H22.org has alot of swap info for ya so if your looking for some more info they have alot of shit to assist ya

                  jay
                  cb7 sold
                  2002 mineral gray mustang gt not stock
                  95 accord lx daily driver

                  Comment


                    #10
                    thanks guys!
                    + '93 Accord EX - CB7 - Frost White w/ Dark Blue = teh s0ld (ilikebigbutts)

                    2006 Cobalt SS - 2004 Monte Carlo SS - 1990 CRX Si

                    . Snail Squad .



                    Comment


                      #11
                      As far as I know the Accord manifolds (intake and exhaust) will not fit on the H22... I think I even asked about the exhaust manifold in a thread on here... The Accord exhaust piping will work (from the downpipe/flexpipe back) but it's way restrictive for the H22. I felt like I gained 20hp by replacing it with 2.5"... I may have!

                      As for compression, it doesn't affect daily driving any. There really isn't any difference in the way the engine accelerates, aside from doing it faster... The only thing the greater compression will do is make it less practical to use any kind of forced induction. The H22's high compression, coupled with the fragile sleeves, makes the engine very easy to break under boost if it's not prepared properly (strengthened and lower compression). The USDM H22 is 10:1... The JDM H22, which is what you're looking at, is 10:6 (and also 10hp more)






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                        #12
                        osaka sucks stay the hell away from them they will rip you off bro they will sell you junk just get it from hmotorsonline. remember theyll try to get you with their cheap prices many people have fallen victim to them id hate to see this happen to you bro.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          So the lower the compression ratio the better for boost? I'm not going turbo anyway but I'm just curious.

                          Yeah, there's a more or less car junkyard local to me that sells only imports. They don't have any H22's in now but I'm going to see how much they want for one when they get one in...whicfh will probably be never. I won't need to pay for shipping then. But the thing is that they have F22A6's there with the manual and everything for like 400 bucks... I could just keep the F22 set-up...but I don't know. What I like about the H22 is that I won't really need to do anything to the engine to make it fast...200HP sounds good to me. But the F22A6 is a torquey mo' fo'. I like that.
                          + '93 Accord EX - CB7 - Frost White w/ Dark Blue = teh s0ld (ilikebigbutts)

                          2006 Cobalt SS - 2004 Monte Carlo SS - 1990 CRX Si

                          . Snail Squad .



                          Comment


                            #14
                            Lower compression is definitely better for boost. Only bad things (detonation) happen when you boost a high compression engine. OF course, with proper tuning, it IS possible to push a decent amount of boost from a properly built high compression engine. I think I read once about an 11:1 H22 running upwards of 10psi... still, that was race only, and most certainly with high octane race gas. Not for a daily driver!

                            A USDM H22 that you would most likely find in a junkyard would probably have more miles on it than an imported JDM one. That means less life left... Of course, that also goes hand in hand with my philosophy: "When something breaks, upgrade!" If you take decent care of it though, it shouldn't be a problem. Who knows what the Japanese guy who may have owned an imported engine did to it. A USDM engine with 140k well maintained miles on it is technically better than a JDM engine that was beat to hell for 35k before the guy wrapped his Lude around a Tokyo stoplight...


                            Messing with the F22A6 isn't a bad idea either. Personally, I like VTEC. I also like having 2 cams (and I will even more when I get to tuning the thing...). I also like to have 200hp out of the box. However, the F is torquey (tq/hp ratio is greater than the H22, I believe, though the actual tq is still lower...). It is also lower compression, has stronger sleeves, and is MUCH cheaper (1/6 the cost of the H22... and you already have one, right?) The auto to manual swap usually runs like $800 with parts and labor, or so I hear. For less than (or about) the cost of an H22, you could probably boost the A6 to 250hp easily. Possibly without any internal modification... Those stronger sleeves and lower compression make that a better candidate for someone on a budget.

                            The aftermarket isn't quite as good, but you can find enough for the F to make it worthwhile.


                            It's funny, I actually find myself recommending the F22 to people more often now. I'm contemplating buying another CB7 to work with, so I can have a boosted F series Of course, I'm getting way off topic here, so I'll cut it short.

                            Bottom line: If you're on a budget and happy with roughly 200hp, get an H22. If you want boost, and are on a budget, then the F is the way to go. Both are respectable. Both are fun. And both should be fairly reliable (with a little more in the reliability for the stock H22... if you get a good one.)






                            Comment


                              #15
                              your absolutley right deever good for boost higher compression as for us is gonna make it harder but i find my motor to be less of a worry i dont wanna be lookin over my shoulder everytime having a turbo you have to monitor those babies alot.

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