h22 VTEC OPS Issue (Code 22)

[cyclonus_cb7]

I've had my H22A OBDI swap now for a few weeks but I was on the freeway do'n 70-80mpn & I threw a CEL. Turned out to be CEL # 22. I know it's for the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch but so far that CEL didn't come back on.

Motor still runs & VTEC kicks in fine when I tried it yesterday. Any ideas? Are some CEL's like this show up intermittently - ?!?!?

Since I'm not getting the CEL right now, is the switch bad/need replacing? If I replace, how will I know that was the problem? Should I reset ECU now & wait to see if I get the CEL again someday?

NOTE: I checked all the wires/plugs & connections to the ECU - everything is firmly seated/connected. Wires are clean and I don't see any visible frays. I've ran a search on this but not real helpful.

Thanks.

[deevergote]

I would replace the switch just to be safe. If the CEL came on, it came on for a reason. You don't want to lose oil pressure in VTEC! This isn't something I know a hell of a lot about, but I wouldn't tempt fate with something like that.

[ACCLUDE91]

It probably just got low on oil which could kick the code 22. If it happens again, check your oil level. If it doesn't happena gain, then don't do anything.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[cp[mike]]

OT: god how cool is it to see pat answering tech questions again

[ACCLUDE91]

Hey buddy, you just stay on topic and worry about your own posts lol


also while I'm in this thread, do you know what the oil pressure is reading? Maybe you had plenty of oil, but not enough pressure.

And just so you know and don't get all worried that you'll blow the motor or something like that....this is not a major code. In fact, once the code is triggered, your engine will run rich to prevent internal damage, lower your REV limit so that you cannot over-REV the non-VTEC cam lobes (starve your motor of air), and prevent VTEC from engaging at all until the next time you start the engine and the ECU recognizes that everythings ok. So basically, even if this code is triggered again, you will not damage your motor. If anything I'd be worried about damaging your motor due to lack of oil pressure. And, this code will not be triggered again unless the oil pressure is not reading correctly at the time that VTEC is engaged. You can test the VTEC press. switch if it makes you feel better, but 9 times out of 10 if it this code is triggered, it has to do with your oil pressure.

[cyclonus_cb7]

ACCLUDE91: Thanks for all the input. You mentioned something about testing it? What's the method?

deevergote: I agree, I would change it too but being that I just did this swap I'm kinda tapped $$. I changed out my clutch, timing belt, balancer belt, water pump, replaced almost all my motor mounts, etc. etc.

But your right, I want to make sure I do it all now so she's running right and I don't have to worry about her later. Plus running rich on expensive CA gas prices are f***ing ridiculous so I'd like to avoid that.

Note: Since I just got the motor installed I've been watching my fluids. The only issue I have is a very minute leak coming from what seems to be my clutch steel line to the trans (where it connects to the cylinder and then to the trans.). I think it just needs to be tightened. Aside from that my fluids are all pretty level, including my motor oil level (5W-30 ).

Anyone? Let me know.

Thanks.

[ACCLUDE91]

To test it, first of all, verify that your connections from the sensor to pin D6 at the ECU are good and it's not intermitently failing. Pull the electrical plug off the press. switch. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the light blue wire in the press. switch electrical plug and pin D6 at the ECU. You should have continuity at all times. Try wiggling the wires (to simulate that you're driving and hitting bumps and shit) and see if the continuity stops. Then use a multimeter to test for continuity between the light blue wire in the press. switch electrical plug and chassis ground. It should not read continuity. Again, wiggle the wires and see if it does make any connection to ground but it should not. If all that checks out, look at the connection that the ECU plug makes at the ECU it might be loose or not making a good connection when you plug the ECU plug back in it. So double check that's making a good connection and repair if necessary. Then you want to use the multimeter to test for continuity between the black wire in the press. switch electrical plug and chassis ground. It should read continuity at all times. Again wiggle the wires and see if the continuity stops. If that's good then you know at this point that all connections and all wiring is good. That means that the issue is either the switch or the oil pressure at the switch. To test the switch, you kinda need to drive it and see what it does when VTEC engages. You want to use the multimeter and test for continuity between pin D6 and chassis ground. You already did this in an earlier step and it should not have read ground then. Howere, this time start the car and go take it for a drive. When VTEC engages, you should get a continuity reading. When RPM's drop and it's out of VTEC the continuity reading should stop. Basically, when there is enough oil pressure at the pressure switch (at least 65 PSI) then the switch makes a connection to ground. When there is not enough oil pressure then it does not make a connection to ground. If all of this checks out, then I would start to be concerned about the possibility of a blocked/clogged oil passage that is prohibiting proper oil flow to the head and press. switch. Hope that helps out.

[cyclonus_cb7]

ACCLUDE91: Wow. Thanks for all that. I'll give your method a try & see what I come up with. So far this whole swap has been a good learning experience all around. This time I'll be diving into electrical stuff more ...

If all works out maybe the switch itself just needs to be replaced (I hope). We'll see. Thanks again for sharing & the detailed post (it really helps).

[93ACCLUDE]

I DONT KNOW IF THE LINK WILL WORK BUT HERE IS THE ALLDATAPRO DIAG. ON CEL 22...
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PR...20912/99969017

[Accord Type R]

My car has the same problem

My car has the same problem and runs extremely rich with the H22 swap. Today I am going to compare a working CB7 H22 and my half ass working CB7 H22. I have been trying for weeks with this guy. Because we have already checked oil pressure, changed out the solenoid, etc.. and still can't find out the problem. As soon as I fine out, I'll let you know.

[MADMAXX]

Did you test the oil pressure by the head?

[ACCLUDE91]

I DONT KNOW IF THE LINK WILL WORK BUT HERE IS THE ALLDATAPRO DIAG. ON CEL 22...
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PR...20912/99969017

What's the login name and password? lol!



Also forgot to mention...if you want to test the press. switch off the car (tons more accurate cause it tests JUST the switch) pull it off, and hook it up to a regulated air supply line. Test the switch as you increase the pressure. Record what pressure it is "switching" at and repeat testing it several times just to make sure it is consistent. Then test the oil pressure in the head where the switch would normally hook up to. See if the same (or greater) pressure as the "switching point" is being supplied at the correct RPM. It should be AT LEAST 60 PSI at around 5k or so and should rise as RPM's rise. Check that shit and get back here.

Or just go ahead and replace the switch and see if it makes a difference. Your call on that one.