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Cheapest HP gains for H22 after I/H/E

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    Cheapest HP gains for H22 after I/H/E

    How's that for a descriptive subject?

    I did my H22 swap, added an AEM CAI and a custom 2.5" exhaust. I plan on getting a 4-2-1 header next... After that, I don't know what else I should be looking for.

    Any ideas for the next steps to take? I'm looking to spend as little as possible (I just bought a house, so money is VERY tight...). I also want to keep as wide a powerband as possible.

    Seems like the "Swaps" forum is turning out to be the "Hybrid" forum as well...







    #2
    Well basically, In terms of mild to cheap applications, you've gone as far as you can go. At this point it depends on how far you want to take your h22. F/I, Nitrous, or N/A build up. Unfortunately all three require decent chunks of money. Nitrous is certainly the cheapest route (if you choose to do a safe/mild application with no internal work). But I'm speculating that's not the route you want to take, since you want power all the time. What are your plans in the long run?

    ... and yes the swap forum is the hybrid forum of our site. Thanks for mentioning that; we might go ahead and change the name for this sub-forum.

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      #3
      Yeah, I don't think I'll ever want to go n2o...

      I've heard that the JDM Type S header is just about as good as any aftermarket, but does the same go for the regular JDM H22 header? I wasn't sure on that, so I saved buying the header for last.

      Any suggestions on cams? I haven't looked into them much, other than I know I would want fairly mild cams (since my car is a daily driver, and I don't spend all of my time in the 6K+ RPM range...). As far as cam gears go, I was thinking AEM, since their prices are decent, and they have a good reputation.






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        #4
        i would stay away form aem cam gears because they only have 3 bolts.. stick to something that has 5 or 6 bolts... skunk2 has some nice 6 bolt gears.. skunk2 also makes some quality cam shafts...
        DD: 1998 Honda Civic EX Coupe
        PC: *searching*

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          #5
          Originally posted by Deevergote
          Any suggestions on cams?
          Skunk2 Stage 1 (mild set up good gains mid and high) but I thought you were concerned about budget? Internal mods are expensive. A cam set for an h22 will typically run about 700+ not incl. labor if you don't do it yourself. Also, a Skunk2 Int. manifold would be good mod... about $350-400.
          Last edited by Lithium92; 08-08-2003, 09:21 AM.

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            #6
            Cool, thanks!
            Yeah, I am on a budget, but I want to do it right (if that makes any sense...) I'll save for 6 months to buy the right part, as long as I know I'm getting my money's worth! I guess "cheapest" was the wrong word to use...

            I'm just looking at the cost-to-power ratio. If I can spend $300 on a part that will add roughly 10 hp (random figure...) and $700 on one that will add 12, I'll go with the $300 part. Then, when I can save up for it, I'll get the $700 part






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              #7
              i'd build up the internals and then get a SMSP or HyTech header that'll be built to the specs of your engine... best 2 headers made

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                #8
                yeah they are upwards of 8-900, but it's well worth it especially if you're already making the investment in internal mods.

                typical pre-built headers are built for the power band of a stock engine, but once you start doing stuff to the engine you leave that power band, which makes the header less efficient, that's why it's worth it to buy a custom header that's built for the mods you have done to your engine.

                it is a hefty chunk but it's the best finishing touch for a built engine

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                  #9
                  Definitely for a finishing touch, I'd say!






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                    #10
                    just remember if you want to go skunk stage 2 or 3 camshafts you will have to upgrade your springs and retainers

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                      #11
                      I would just get a vtec controller and get the car tuned properly, cause you can add all the parts you want but it will never run right and maximize power until properly tuned

                      F/S:Pioneer Premier Deh-880prs w/ ipod adapter $220

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                        #12
                        um....well what do you wanna do with your car? drag? autoX? quick daily driver?

                        drag: nitrous (cheap) or strip it (free! haha)
                        autoX: strip it (still free!)
                        daily driver: I/H/E is plenty
                        Four rods enter, one rod leaves...

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                          #13
                          Also have a good quality suspension set up is a key factor in going fast. It's also a very over looked component in racing now a days. Have good springs and adjustable shocks can help greatly in launching a car.

                          F/S:Pioneer Premier Deh-880prs w/ ipod adapter $220

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by hybrid90accord
                            Also have a good quality suspension set up is a key factor in going fast. It's also a very over looked component in racing now a days. Have good springs and adjustable shocks can help greatly in launching a car.
                            Cool. That was actually my next plan (well, that, and assembling a turbo setup a piece at a time). I plan on getting some Koni sport (yellow) shocks, which are adjustable, and Eibach Pro-Kit springs (I don't want to slam my car, just lower it a bit). I also plan on getting some strut tower bars and anti-sway bars.

                            As far as the those go (strut tower and anti-sway bars) what should I be looking for? I've seen strut tower bars for as cheap as $30 and as much as $250, and sway bar kits for about twice that. I know a cheap bar could break, causing major damage.

                            Could I just get a front strut tower bar to start, or would it be a better idea to buy front and rear at the same time? I hear the sway bars should both be done at the same time or handling feels a little strange...






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                              #15
                              Skunk2 intake manifold is a waste of money. It produces power in a range that your car would never use and a port and polish would work out better anyway. As suggested to have your engine running its best just get a vafc and get it tuned. That will probably increase your power throughout the rpms more than any other mod you would want. The suspension is very important and often overlooked as said and what you had in mind sounds very good. As for strut bars, you get what you pay for. I have heard that most people feel no difference with a $30 strut bar. From what I have heard doing one at a time can produce under/oversteer.
                              Last edited by Fearit22; 09-08-2003, 09:43 PM.

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