h23 blue top swap questions

[pcggattnc]

so I have two newly acquired motors. one is a h22a and was casted in 94. this h22a has a spun bearing from what I was told. this motor came with IM and M2B4 LSD trans with act clutch and fidanza flywheel.
the other motor is an H23a casted in 99. this H23a came with IM and alternator. this motor appears to have not been installed after imported.

I am looking to swap the Blue top into my 90 cb7
*From my research I have found that...
*I can use my stock axles
*I can use my stock mounts except the timing cover mount in the H23a which needs to be swapped for any H22 motor is this correct?
*If I chose to keep power steering I would use a 4th gen accord power *steering bracket and pump with a custom belt. I don't know the size tho.
*if I choce to keep ac I would use the F22 AC bracket and pump
*H22a4 fuel rail with OBD1 injectors from H23 non v-tec
*OBD1 Distributor from an H23 non v-tec
*upper intake manifold plenum from H23 non v-tec.
*OBD1 ecu
*wires need to be pinned to ecu and ran to v-tec solenoid
*wiring harness needs to be unwrapped, rerouted, and rewrapped to accomidate for H23a.
*my questions are
*can I use the injectors from the 94 H22a?
*can I use the IM from the 94 H22a?

if I left anything out please let me know.

I do not plan on building this motor. just belts and gaskets tensioners.

I have most of the parts due to the fact I have been building my 2000 prelude for 10 years now and have extra H series parts left over. so the swap should happen soon.
I just need to make sure this is all I need. thanks to all reading.

[Jarrett]

If you want to use the H23A VTEC then you'll want the injectors and distributor from the JDM H22A. Either header will work but you may want to purchase a new one depending on what you have attached to each engine.

The power steering from your Accord won't work without a lot of rigging. Just use a pump, bracket and line from a '92-'96 Prelude and you're fine. The H22A may even have the P39 backet attached to it still.

Use your Accord fuel rail and just swap the H22A injectors into it. If you want OEM fuel pressure then you'll want the fuel pressure regulator from the H22A rail. The Accord FPR is actually 4-6 psi higher, though.

Use your Accord engine harness. If you want to unwrap it and add the VTEC and IAB wires, that's fine. If not, just run those wires in their own loom and zip-tie them to the existing harness.

[pcggattnc]

I am headed to the pik n pull now. the power steering pump should it come from a 92-96 lude with an f22 or an h23?

[pcggattnc]

ok I didn't get anything worth while at the pik n pull. but I got back and cleaned each motor up and started the process. pics soon.

[Jarrett]

The pumps and lines are all the same. The F22A1 Prelude uses a different bracket than the DOHC engines. You may already own that one, though, as that's what was originally attached to the H22A.

[pcggattnc]

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]the pulleys are chipped for some reason. the alternator is the only one im worried about
[IMG][/IMG]why do the headers look exactly the same. the other is the h22a4 from my 2000 lude.
[IMG][/IMG]extra spark plugs for my H22a4 now in good use the length looked like a mil shorter though.
[IMG][/IMG]I hope to have this mount swapped soon
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]didn't have fuel rail or injectors, anything comparable that I can use as far as injectors??
[IMG][/IMG]hope its a good tranny
[IMG][/IMG]will this plenum work on the H23a?

thanks for looking and please inspire me with your comments and what I should probably do next. this is a "backyard" style project so im not looking to spend a lot. just the basics.

[Jarrett]

There are lots of injectors you can use if you're running on a chipped and tuned ECU. If not, and you're running a P13, you need some OBD1 H22A 345cc injectors.

[wildBill83]

The H22A IM won't work on the H23A, but steal the black box for the IABs from the bottom of the runners for the other motor. Also being that these motors seem mistreated you really need to do a full seal replacement on all gaskets and seals and possibly check your internals out for their wear and tear.

Going cheap now will cost you 4-10x more if you don't do preventative maintenance now.

[pcggattnc]

so wildbill I know theses motors sat under tarps sitting on the ground for more than 6 months maybe being mistreated. the H22 for sure. but the H23 might not have been mistreated just forgotten. either way how far of a gasket change should I go? a full head gasket and up? what sort of parts should I change in your opinion.

[wildBill83]

If the motor hasn't ran in more than 3 months and has been exposed to the environment you need to replace every gasket and seal on the block and the head. Especially the cam seals, balance shaft seals, main rear seal and crankshaft seal on the harmonic balancer side, as well as oil pump and water pump seals.

It's a good idea to go through the motor with a fine tooth comb if you expect it to be anywhere near reliable for an extended amount of time.

My definition of mistreated is not being used and sitting in the open unprotected and not oil fogged before storage. Who knows how much rust has accumulated on the internals. Pop the valve covers off and feel for lubricant of any kind. I would assume the fluids have been drained prior to letting the motors sit idle.

[pcggattnc]

as far as I know I can use H22a4 gasket kit right or am I wrong? if there is rust on the internals do u recommend a full rebuild?

[wildBill83]

as far as I know I can use H22a4 gasket kit right or am I wrong? if there is rust on the internals do u recommend a full rebuild?

To rebuild the H23 I would use an H23 kit. I personally have not rebuilt one of the H23's yet. But I do believe there are subtle differences in bolt locations like from the F22 to an H22 block.

If there is rust on the internals, I would do a full rebuild. That is the only way to make sure you have a reliable motor and not a future boat anchor.

[Jarrett]

Bill, the H23A VTEC is pretty much an H22A with an F22/H23A1 bottom end. Externally it's nearly identical to the H22A and the intake will fit.

Since that H23A appears to be a '98-'99 you should be able to use the entire intake without concern for IACV issues present on the '00-01 H23A VTEC intake plenums. Why do you care about swapping intake manifolds, though?

Use an H22A4 kit on the H23A VTEC because it needs the open deck head gasket. Then use an H22A1 kit on the JDM H22A. Either way there are still some seals that its best to get at the dealer.

[pcggattnc]

I will pop the valve cover and take a picture. thanks wild bill

[wildBill83]

Bill, the H23A VTEC is pretty much an H22A with an F22/H23A1 bottom end. Externally it's nearly identical to the H22A and the intake will fit.

Since that H23A appears to be a '98-'99 you should be able to use the entire intake without concern for IACV issues present on the '00-01 H23A VTEC intake plenums. Why do you care about swapping intake manifolds, though?

Use an H22A4 kit on the H23A VTEC because it needs the open deck head gasket. Then use an H22A1 kit on the JDM H22A. Either way there are still some seals that its best to get at the dealer.

Good deal Jarrett, does this mean I can use H22A4 rebuild kit to rework an F22A1? I thought the water pump and a few other parts were slightly different when compared side to side. I'm asking this for personal reasons and you can answer in a PM as to not muddy the thread. I won't be back around my parts and kits to compare until Monday, as I'm in Dallas at the moment.

My apologies OP as I forgot it was a blue top VTEC, for some reason I was assuming it was the non-VTEC while posting even though you clearly state otherwise and even showed pictures.

I will pop the valve cover and take a picture. thanks wild bill

Feel the wear surfaces for pits and debris as well.