I recently did a head change on my f22 I was going to do the top and bottom but I couldn’t be without the car for long so I just did the top end. Well now it is burning oil. So I decided to just buy a JDM H22a. The day that I was going to order the motor from HMO, I was searching through Craigslist and found one in my area timing belt and stuff already done. Cheaper than the HMO motor by a good bit plus TB parts replaced with OEM. So I decided to get it.
The catch. I had done all the research I knew exactly what I needed. Not any more this motor was OBD2. everybody says just swap all the parts for OBD1. That gets expensive. The guy I got the motor from said I can use the OBD2 stuff. Most of it anyway.
So here is a journal for my swap.
My plan was to use the OBD2 stuff. All except the ECU. I will be using a jdm p13 to start and then hondata s300 in my chipped p28 after all is running well.
Most of the swap is straight forward like the OBD1 h22a. However there are several main differences I have noticed
1. Throttle body mounted MAP sensor
2. Dizzy. OBD2 has one plug OBD1 has two plugs.
3. Injectors. OBD1 are low resistance , OBD2 are high resistance
4. Most OBD2 jdm motors I have seen don’t have a vtec oil pressure switch
The Motor JDM h22 96. It came from JDM engine corps in TX
Valve cover removed. I've seen cleaner but I'm ok with this. A couple 1000 mile oil changes and some ATF and I should be fine.
1. MAP SENSOR: You can use the accord MAP sensor and just ignore the prelude MAP on the top of the TB. But why. Using the prelude map should give a more accurate reading bc it is directly on top of the TB and Doesn’t have a hose that may have a hole in it and cause a skewed reading. There is a diagram on here done by Ronald Type-R. I will post it. Pretty much cut and solder the wires together and use the prelude map.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...3&page=2&pp=20
2. Dizzy: It is well known that the internals for both dizzys are the same. So what are the differences. It’s the plugs both dizzys have 8 wires. My OBD2 dizzy wires were the exact same color as the wires on my OBD1. I opened up both dizzys and confirmed that they all went to the same location. Ie coil wires, crank sensor and ICM wires. Some I could see but the colors were the same. Below is a pic of the finished dizzy rewired up for OBD1. I also have a backup OBD1 dizzy I purchased just in case.
3. INJECTORS: I can understand using the dizzy but really, the injectors have advanced so much since 92-96. Any way. There are basically two types of injectors saturated OBD1 low impedence and peak and hold high impedance OBD2. Now my plan with this motor is realiability and Fuel economy. So eventually I plan to run RDX 410 injectors. Running high impedance injectors in our cars is fairly simple. The ECU sends a high impedance signal from the factory. Our accords have a resistor box which effectively knocks the signal down to work with the injectors. One other difference is the obd1 injectors are 345cc and the obd2 are 290cc. I have not researched that as much to know the long term results seeing that most of you will run a P13 which is calibrated from the factory for 345cc. Remember I have a hondata so adjusting fuel trim can be done easily. To bypass the resistor box you merely need to solder the 5 wires that go into the box together essentially deleting the box. Now I try to cut the harness as little as possible so I cut the plug from a accord in the JY. Sorry if someone needed that plug. Pics to follow.
Injector wiring was straight forward. All the cylinders were the same between both engines. The accord common was yellow/black and the prelude common was red/black. Soldered the OBD2 plugs on.
Where I did have trouble was mounting the plastic thing that holds the wiring for the injectors. It is pressed against the valve cover.
I've read where people had issues with the OBD2 injectors since they are 290 compared to the obd1 345. But honestly I don't know if maybe they didn't delete the resistor box or what. Because this engine is strong with these injectors. I was thinking I may have to get the 345 but to be honest I don't think I need them.
The catch. I had done all the research I knew exactly what I needed. Not any more this motor was OBD2. everybody says just swap all the parts for OBD1. That gets expensive. The guy I got the motor from said I can use the OBD2 stuff. Most of it anyway.
So here is a journal for my swap.
My plan was to use the OBD2 stuff. All except the ECU. I will be using a jdm p13 to start and then hondata s300 in my chipped p28 after all is running well.
Most of the swap is straight forward like the OBD1 h22a. However there are several main differences I have noticed
1. Throttle body mounted MAP sensor
2. Dizzy. OBD2 has one plug OBD1 has two plugs.
3. Injectors. OBD1 are low resistance , OBD2 are high resistance
4. Most OBD2 jdm motors I have seen don’t have a vtec oil pressure switch
The Motor JDM h22 96. It came from JDM engine corps in TX
Valve cover removed. I've seen cleaner but I'm ok with this. A couple 1000 mile oil changes and some ATF and I should be fine.
1. MAP SENSOR: You can use the accord MAP sensor and just ignore the prelude MAP on the top of the TB. But why. Using the prelude map should give a more accurate reading bc it is directly on top of the TB and Doesn’t have a hose that may have a hole in it and cause a skewed reading. There is a diagram on here done by Ronald Type-R. I will post it. Pretty much cut and solder the wires together and use the prelude map.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...3&page=2&pp=20
2. Dizzy: It is well known that the internals for both dizzys are the same. So what are the differences. It’s the plugs both dizzys have 8 wires. My OBD2 dizzy wires were the exact same color as the wires on my OBD1. I opened up both dizzys and confirmed that they all went to the same location. Ie coil wires, crank sensor and ICM wires. Some I could see but the colors were the same. Below is a pic of the finished dizzy rewired up for OBD1. I also have a backup OBD1 dizzy I purchased just in case.
3. INJECTORS: I can understand using the dizzy but really, the injectors have advanced so much since 92-96. Any way. There are basically two types of injectors saturated OBD1 low impedence and peak and hold high impedance OBD2. Now my plan with this motor is realiability and Fuel economy. So eventually I plan to run RDX 410 injectors. Running high impedance injectors in our cars is fairly simple. The ECU sends a high impedance signal from the factory. Our accords have a resistor box which effectively knocks the signal down to work with the injectors. One other difference is the obd1 injectors are 345cc and the obd2 are 290cc. I have not researched that as much to know the long term results seeing that most of you will run a P13 which is calibrated from the factory for 345cc. Remember I have a hondata so adjusting fuel trim can be done easily. To bypass the resistor box you merely need to solder the 5 wires that go into the box together essentially deleting the box. Now I try to cut the harness as little as possible so I cut the plug from a accord in the JY. Sorry if someone needed that plug. Pics to follow.
Injector wiring was straight forward. All the cylinders were the same between both engines. The accord common was yellow/black and the prelude common was red/black. Soldered the OBD2 plugs on.
Where I did have trouble was mounting the plastic thing that holds the wiring for the injectors. It is pressed against the valve cover.
I've read where people had issues with the OBD2 injectors since they are 290 compared to the obd1 345. But honestly I don't know if maybe they didn't delete the resistor box or what. Because this engine is strong with these injectors. I was thinking I may have to get the 345 but to be honest I don't think I need them.
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