I got a 97 accord wagon with bent valves. I was wondering if a f23a1 head would bolt on and what modifications would be needed. And what ecu I would need. I was planning on putting a h23 head on it but I don't have the im and I'm a bit skeptical about Honda bonding the head. Putting a f23a1 head on what ecu would I need to run or would I have to go chipped? I plan on converting to obd1 later down the road when I get ready to boost it. And the reason I'm saying f23a1 is bc I have a spare f23a1 with a bad crankshaft. I'm just trying to get it on the road so I can drive it around until I'm ready to drop in a different motor. Getting the valves changed or buying another head will cost at least 5-600 and I'd rather spend that on what I plan on building.
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this thread is full of information that could be helpful.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...f23a+head+swap -
i did that head swap before
it was super easy
use your existing intake manifold, power steering, distributor
exhaust manifold is different.
remove the oil control valve from the block,
i dont know what timing belt i used or if it was a different one than the f22b
p0a ecu
wire up vtec
only thing you really need from the donor engine is the head and valve cover exhaust manifold, vtec solenoid and pressure switch.
i did this head swap a few years ago and my customer still daily drives the car.
some may start with this 85mm vs 86mm talk but its all theory.
there were no negatives to this head swapBudget Street is offline working in the shop
drop the mouse and pick up a wrench
Originally posted by deevergoteComment
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I'm still not a fan of the fact that the combustion chamber diameter of the F23A1 head is 86mm, while the cylinder bore of the F22B2 is 85mm. That overlap can provide a nice sharp ridge in the blast zone, just asking to be a source of detonation.
The F23A1 head is the best SOHC VTEC F series head you'll find... but it's really not THAT great. Especially paired with the lower displacement block. I'd say you'd be better of just swapping in a full F23A1. Or you could always have some mild headwork done to an F22A head and put that on. The bore/chamber diameter will match, and the F22A head can flow very well when opened up by a competent machinist.
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i've decided to just get a used f22b2 engine for now and build this spare block and make a frankenstein. i'll drop it off at the machine shop and open up the cylinder to 87 and mate it with the h23 head. i'll weld up the oil drain instead of honda bonding it and redrill drain holes but i think that'll be later down the road and go with a dsm turbo build.
anyways thanks for the help and replies.
the machining part and mechanical part isn't what i'm worried about.
here's a build i did from start to finish
http://www.preludepower.com/forums/s...056&highlight=
so i am pretty confident with my work i just don't want to be buying a bunch of stuff and wasting money.
one question i have is since i have two blocks to work with which is the better lower mated with h23 head. f23a1 or f22b2?
thanks for the advice in advance.Comment
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