H22 Choices.

[Straight Success]

Alright, I going to need some feedback/forum help in a making a decision. Since I'll only have a bout a week, maybe less to install my H. Also I have my budget that's not budging for a while to take into consideration as well.

My plan isn't to fully build my H yet. I merely want to simply drop one is because my F is on it's last few hauls (I think). I have basically $2,000 or so for this project. I'm wondering should I just drop a H in with new clutch, flywheel, TB &WP, and use my F tranny for a while, or should I get a whole package H22a w/M2B4 or T2W4 and drop it in as a whole and do all the required maintenance and upgrades in May 2013?

[N9netwoAccord]

Alright, I going to need some feedback/forum help in a making a decision. Since I'll only have a bout a week, maybe less to install my H. Also I have my budget that's not budging for a while to take into consideration as well.

My plan isn't to fully build my H yet. I merely want to simply drop one is because my F is on it's last few hauls (I think). I have basically $2,000 or so for this project. I'm wondering should I just drop a H in with new clutch, flywheel, TB &WP, and use my F tranny for a while, or should I get a whole package H22a w/M2B4 or T2W4 and drop it in as a whole and do all the required maintenance and upgrades in May 2013?

I would take the longer gears with the peace of mind my maitenance has been done first. What good will it due you if you drop it in the H22 trans but your timing belt breaks or tensioner fails and your motor is toast?

[GhostAccord]

x2 on maintenance over gearing. Making sure your engine is sound before you drop it in is a much better idea.

[Straight Success]

That's what I'm thinking. About $900 or so for the motor picked up. About $150 for header & DP. TB, WP, and KS tensioner about $150. Clutch and flywheel about $350. New mounts, adds about another $50.

That's about $1600. Add in the extras that I didn't account for, and that's about $2000.

[N9netwoAccord]

I'd also do the H23 tensioner conversion while you're in there. The hydraulic tensioner does have a tendency to fail with no warning.

[Straight Success]

I'd also do the H23 tensioner conversion while you're in there. The hydraulic tensioner does have a tendency to fail with no warning.

That's why I put KS tensioner.

[93redcb7]

dont forget an ecu + tune, if your not going to use the stock ecu

[jdm92_accorn]

and i'd get rid of the balance shaft belt. h22's also have a tendency to let go of their balance shafts.

[youngflyndsaved]

It depends on how well you trust the condition of the motor that you're about to purchase, but the maintenance should be the best option. If your clutch and flywheel are good then i personally would spend the money elsewhere. I bought mine with eng/m2s4 trans so i just dropped it all in.

If you think about it, you can replace the clutch/flywheel/throwout bearing and all that stuff when you have the transmission you would like to have. Maybe resurfacing your current flywheel and the rear main seal replacement wouldn't hurt funds too much as an add-on.

The few things i regret not doing, due to the fact that i didn't have any spare funds, were the oil seals on the timing side and tensioner conversion (didn't know about the KS tensioner back then). Right now i have a tiny tiny oil leak that i can't get to and it's been that way for almost a year. I didn't trust myself enough to remove/reinstall the TBelt and other crucial components on that side, not enough knowledge about it back then. If i had another shot, tbelt, wpump, tensioner, timing side gaskets, giving the engine block a good scrub , and anything else you can think of that'll be a hassle to do/repair/replace while the engine is installed.

[Straight Success]

My clutch is so shot. Unless I granny drive my car, the slightest acceleration makes the clutch slip, and I get to watch the RPMs slide up about a grand under acceleration. No fun.

I'm trying to budget everything 'casue I hate to waste money. The last thing I want to do is keep buying the same parts over and over again.

[youngflyndsaved]

H/F series can use the same flywheel, and i'm almost a hunnid percent sure the same clutches as well. Only difference is the amount of power they're made to handle. So go ahead and get like a stage 1 set or just clutch itself. If it's slipping from F series power, that H is not gonna let it catch grip. Plus the first half year of having an H22A, there is no way you're gonna want to drive like a granny!

[The G-Man]

I would say, go for the displacement and torque and get H23, but I would not try that on a budget of $2k because you are going to need to get a custom tune for it because there is not a PnP ECU for it.

[Straight Success]

The budget is a huge deal. I'm sticking to it as I have other things in the works.

I've started an Excel file to price everything out.

Clutch
Flywheel
KS Tensioner
OEM TB and WP Components (trying to locate a full OEM kit on Ebay)
OEM Rear Main Seal
OEM Throwout Bearing
The H22a
4 Motor Mounts
Master Cylinder
Slave Cylinder
Header

Things I have to do while engine is out of car:

Integra 40/40 Proportioning Valve
Non-ABS Front Lines
Brake Master Cylinder

Hopefully this can all get done on $2,000.

[youngflyndsaved]

What kind of mounts do you plan on using?

Don't forget to add fluids, as those are not cheap for the good stuff. Oil, filter, trans fluid, coolant, brake/clutch fluid. That adds on another $50-100. You'll need other wiring stuff like soldering gun, solder wire, heat shrink, wire loom, electrical tape if you don't have those. I used alot of tape for some reason. I had spare money set aside to rent tools from O'reillys, ball joint separator. I spent like $30 on snacks n drinks lol.

[Straight Success]

Stock OEM replacment mounts. I'll eventually get poly inserts. The fluids I have covered.