Obd1 vs obd2

[honda_mike]

Don't no if this has been brought up before, and I apologize if this sounds like a noob question, but how can you tell the difference between the two I'm going to be new to the h22 scene, so I want to get as much info on the h as possible

[90blackcoupe]

Don't no if this has been brought up before, and I apologize if this sounds like a noob question, but how can you tell the difference between the two I'm going to be new to the h22 scene, so I want to get as much info on the h as possible

All obd 2 is for emission control and nothing else. Extra O2 sensor and evap solenoid, and different plugs on few sensors. 92-95 h22a are closed deck, while 96 to 01 are open deck design. I've owned both and feel no difference power wise. If I had a choice I'd take a 96+ since the seals are probably in better shape, and less mileage but who knows for sure. Also if I remember right the 96+ has 55mm mains as oppose to 50mm main bearings on the crankshaft.

Easiest way to tell 92-95 vs 96-01 is 96-01 will have the map sensor on top of the throttle body, while on 92-95 modles the map was somewhere on the firewall.

['93CB7Ex]

And obdii had 3 wire iac. Obdi had 2 wire iac.

[90blackcoupe]

And obdii had 3 wire iac. Obdi had 2 wire iac.

Forgot to meention there is no obd2 in japan its a North american thing, or theere was no obd2 not suure now a days. So a jdm engine from 96-01 will only have a 2 wire iacv like 92-95. only usdm has the 3wire. bUt like I mention in my first post most senssors plug might not be the same.

So the map sensor on the tb is obd2 usdm or 96+jdm.

[deevergote]

The 96+ engines from Japan still had the same setup as the US OBD2... you can't use an ECU from a JDM 96+ car in a CB7 without MAJOR rewiring. That's why nobody uses the "proper" ECU for H22 Type S/Euro R, F20B, etc... because there are no OBD1 equivalents.

Are you sure about the MAP sensor? I swear my 94 H22 has a throttle body MAP... but I could be wrong. It's been a while since I played under the hood, and I didn't install it myself.

[mr_naler]

I have been looking into this whole thing, as my F22A1 has clearly had enough after 260,000 miles. I want to buy an F20B, or maybe even just an F23A, but I am not fond of the idea of using a different ECU. I have spent time searching, but ho major are we talking about?(converting obd0 to obd2)

[honda_mike]

Thank you for all the helpful tips everyone. The one in getting is 96+(H22A4) it will be coming with the ECU, tranny, and axels. I know that ill have to grab the OBD1 to OBD2 harness. Is there anything else I should be aware of when installing or just general info on the motor?

[deevergote]

I have been looking into this whole thing, as my F22A1 has clearly had enough after 260,000 miles. I want to buy an F20B, or maybe even just an F23A, but I am not fond of the idea of using a different ECU. I have spent time searching, but ho major are we talking about?(converting obd0 to obd2)

Why F20B or F23A? Just get an OBD1 H22A and be done with it. It performs better than either of those engines, and can be had in OBD1 form... or easily converted.

The amount of rewiring necessary to use an OBD2 ECU will be far too much work to justify the swap of an OBD2 engine. The only other viable option is to get a chipped ECU that can be tuned (or some other engine management system), and have it properly tuned... but that can get rather expensive, and even the best of tunes won't be as good as a factory tune (people will argue this... but the factory tunes have many hours and millions of dollars sunk into them, done by highly trained engineers that developed the engine the first place... some dude with a dyno, a computer, and an afternoon isn't going to surpass that!)

Thank you for all the helpful tips everyone. The one in getting is 96+(H22A4) it will be coming with the ECU, tranny, and axels. I know that ill have to grab the OBD1 to OBD2 harness. Is there anything else I should be aware of when installing or just general info on the motor?

That ECU will be useless to you.
You don't need the harness at all. Just add wires to your current harness. You will need to convert that H22A4 to OBD1, using OBD1 injectors, distributor, and P13 ECU.
Be sure the H22A4 engine and transmission aren't coming from the Prelude SH, with the ATTS transmission. The transmission won't bolt up at all, and the engine has some differences from other H22As that will require some modification to mount it as well.

[HappyGilmore]

Be sure the H22A4 engine and transmission aren't coming from the Prelude SH, with the ATTS transmission. The transmission won't bolt up at all, and the engine has some differences from other H22As that will require some modification to mount it as well.

It is the black sheep of the H22's. I had one they have block off plates for ATTS removal. And I found out that is the worst H22 to have ever. You could mod it but it's not worth the time to do so.

[Jarrett]

And for the future sake of this thread being useful in a search:

The H22A1 was from '92-'96
OBD-I from '92-'95, OBD-II was '96 only
All had closed decks and 50mm mains.

The H22A4 was from '97-'01
All were OBD-II
All were open deck but only the '97 had 50mm mains. All others had 55mm mains.

If you give out the wrong years then the value of the information in the thread could be hurtful to someone trying to use it as a resource in the future.

[deevergote]

And for the future sake of this thread being useful in a search:

The H22A1 was from '92-'96
OBD-I from '92-'95, OBD-II was '96 only
All had closed decks and 50mm mains.

The H22A4 was from '97-'01
All were OBD-II
All were open deck but only the '97 had 50mm mains. All others had 55mm mains.

If you give out the wrong years then the value of the information in the thread could be hurtful to someone trying to use it as a resource in the future.

The 97 was the only one with larger mains? I didn't know that. I read a magazine article that said "the 5th gen Prelude H22 has larger mains, making it a good choice for modification"... but I didn't know it was only limited to one year!


Also, Happy... the H22A4 really isn't any worse than any other H22. Just the added issue of mounting with the ones that came from an SH. The engine itself is no better or worse than others, though the open deck can cause issues when pushing significant power or seriously high RPMs (though retaining stock sleeves for either would be dumb anyway, so that's a moot point.)

[mr_naler]

Why F20B or F23A? Just get an OBD1 H22A and be done with it. It performs better than either of those engines, and can be had in OBD1 form... or easily converted.

The amount of rewiring necessary to use an OBD2 ECU will be far too much work to justify the swap of an OBD2 engine. The only other viable option is to get a chipped ECU that can be tuned (or some other engine management system), and have it properly tuned... but that can get rather expensive, and even the best of tunes won't be as good as a factory tune (people will argue this... but the factory tunes have many hours and millions of dollars sunk into them, done by highly trained engineers that developed the engine the first place... some dude with a dyno, a computer, and an afternoon isn't going to surpass that!)

F20B(automatic version) to my door from is $300 cheaper than an OBD1 H22, and the F23 is even cheaper. I guess when coupled with the fact that I would have to dump more into tuning cost is offset for the F20B. I agree with what you say about the tune, hence the reason I would rather swap to OBD2 vs getting a chipped ECU. I guess my only viable option now is the F23A and the H22A.

[deevergote]

The F23A is OBD2 also. There are no OBD1 F23As.

The automatic F20B is only 180 (not even... 180ps, which is less than 180hp) The F23A is what, 160hp? Not a performance motor at all.

If the difference is $300, save your milk money for another month or two and get the H22A. An OBD1 H22A with the proper ECU will be easy to install. It will run correctly (if healthy, and installed correctly.) Replacement parts can be found easily in the US (not so with all F20B parts...)
The F23A can be found in the US, so that's good... but it's OBD2. A chipped ECU that is properly tuned will cost money. A full OBD2 conversion of your car will cost money, and it will be quite complex. If you're not familiar with such things, you're in for a frustrating time... or a costly trip to a shop that will do it for you.
You may need a new gauge cluster, new sensors (OBD2 vehicles have sensors that ODB1 vehicles do not have... like 2 o2 sensors.) and who knows how many other custom things for that conversion. It won't be fun, and it won't be cheap. There's a reason nobody converts the car to OBD2! If you're going to do it, an F23A is not a good reason for it.

If the MINOR difference in cost is the only factor, then you really need to look at the big picture. If you want to do an engine swap, and you want to keep cost down, reliability up, and have the greatest ease of PROPER installation, maintenance, and repair... the H22A is really the best option. Other than that, keeping the F22A is a valid option as well (though once you mod it to make H22 power, reliability can be sacrificed unless you took care to really do it right... costing about what an H22 swap would cost!)

Any engine under the hood other than an H22A or F22A is really only good for people that want to be "different" (aside from a K, no other common swaps are really "different" anymore)

[mr_naler]

From what I can tell, the only difference in the F20B auto and manual versions are the valve train and TB. Not a huge deal for me as these can be upgraded in the future when this isn't my DD.

Time is a pressing issue as well as funds. I am leaving for BCT in 2 months, so it HAS to be done by then. At the same time, I don't want to have to keep pouring money into whatever way I fix it. For a while after basic I won't have time to work on it, so it needs to last me a year or so, with nothing but routine maintenance. Yeah, I would like to be different, but the way I look at it, performance wise, the F20B is to the H22A as the B16A is to the B18C, and I have always liked the B16. Alas, this is a conundrum that needs to be resolved shortly, and sadly the H22A is just simply out of my price range at the moment. Perhaps I will come into some $$ and be able to do it, but unlikely.

[honda_mike]

So I picked up my motor on Saturday, and yesterday I had CB7Nub and Monza over and we were checking out my P13 and it seems to be a OBD2 ECU. Got in contact with Monza this morning and it turns out it has a immobilizer. How would I by pass this in our cars? All I no is it was previously in a 92 lude and may be bypassed