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H22a Swap running horrible please help

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    H22a Swap running horrible please help

    So i just recently did a obd2 h22a swap but changed the injectors dizzy and ecu to be obd1 but its only running on two cylinders! all wires are wired up no check engine light. Ive checked and changed a number of things in the past couple days. New cap and rotor, new plugs and wires. i did do a timing belt when the motor was out and everything was top dead center almost positive im going to check the timing belt again tomorrow. we did a compression check made sure everything was good no lower than 235 they were a little scattered but nothing major! Im lost i dnt know what else to do but i can walk out too my car start it and pull cylinder 1 and 4 and the car will still run.. but it runs like crap and sounds like a subaru any ideas?

    #2
    what are the dead cylinders lacking? spark or fuel? they have compression so one of those has to be missing.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Dani Filth View Post
      what are the dead cylinders lacking? spark or fuel? they have compression so one of those has to be missing.
      well we pulled cylinders 1 and 4 and the plugs were wet! soo my guess is spark! but we checked the wires and they are getting spark the wires and plugs are brand new! distributer has a new cap and rotor! soo i just ripped the internals out a my dizzy and changed them! so ima gonna try that tomorrow... but what does it sound like to you any ideas?

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        #4
        Check your firing order. As simple as it sounds, something could've gotten criss crossed.
        Last edited by 91H22ACB7; 09-02-2011, 11:35 AM.
        1991 Accord Ex - H22A - Omnipower Coilovers - Greddy SP2
        1993 Civic Dx - D15B7 - T3/T04E - Ported head - Hole in block - May be going F swap



        My Workout Log

        Originally posted by Leung
        Well, I poked the big one in the head with the shovel while shouting at it "hey, you can't sleep here".

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          #5
          changing the dizzy internals yourself isnt really smart if you dont know what your doing. i dont thing its as simple as pulling parts out and stuffing new parts in. were the plugs wet with fuel or oil? i assume fuel. replace them before starting the engine. they are done now. i would say its the dizzy thats giving you the problem. i would get a new or remanufactured one

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            #6
            Originally posted by Dani Filth View Post
            changing the dizzy internals yourself isnt really smart if you dont know what your doing. i dont thing its as simple as pulling parts out and stuffing new parts in. were the plugs wet with fuel or oil? i assume fuel. replace them before starting the engine. they are done now. i would say its the dizzy thats giving you the problem. i would get a new or remanufactured one
            sooo i changed the dizzy internals and did a resistance check on injectors and resistor box and check the timing everything was top dead center! so everything that we checked was good we got spark on cylinders 1 and 4 now but the car won't idle and still won't engage vtec! sooo i we took apart my ecu and there is a burnmark on one of the transistors soo i think my ecu might be fried??

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              #7
              why are you even trying to engage vtec when the engine isnt running right? do you want to blow it up? so 2 and 3 are getting no spark? try a different ecu. you can use your accord ecu. just dont be an idiot and rev the shit out of it. get it running right before you even attempt to hit vtec. that rpm range is dangerous for an engine that isnt running right and if you do manage to engage vtec and theres a spark or fuel problem you could really break something.

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                #8
                Could be a bad ECU. I'd try a buddy or whoever's got a P13 or a chip ECU with an H22 basemap to try on.

                Originally posted by toycar
                Braking the bank, maybe. Feeling like a boss, likely.

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                  #9
                  If you do not have a stock P13 Handy the stock accord ecu will idle the h22 just fine, but with some check engine lights

                  The ECU still has a fail safe so it should still be able to idle properly

                  Are the injectors wired in properly?

                  Are you running a resistor box?

                  You can run the OBD2 injectors but you have to remove the resistor box

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by bruno8747 View Post
                    If you do not have a stock P13 Handy the stock accord ecu will idle the h22 just fine, but with some check engine lights

                    The ECU still has a fail safe so it should still be able to idle properly

                    Are the injectors wired in properly?

                    Are you running a resistor box?

                    You can run the OBD2 injectors but you have to remove the resistor box
                    ive tried everything i checked timing injectors wires dizzy plugs and wires nothing changes it! i checked the compression all 235-245 i check resistance in the injectors! obd1 injectors 2.4 with resistor box, and obd2 injectors 11.9 soo the only other thing i can think is the ecu thats the only other thing that got changed when i pulled the h22 from my prelude

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                      #11
                      So have you tried running a different ECU yet, or are you just going to talk about it?






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                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        So have you tried running a different ECU yet, or are you just going to talk about it?
                        i bought a new ecu! cuz the i found out that the transistor in the ecu that was fried was to the iab! so it should be here in the next 2-3 days ill let everyone know what happens!

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                          #13
                          Ok so i got the ecu it solve my iab issue and i did the timing belt again so no misfires.. but now my car still won't idle when i start it up on a cold start it idle's around 700 this is a cold start normally hondas idle around 1500-2000 on a cold start! soo i took it out on a drive and when it heated up everytime i would come to a stop light or stop sign it would stall/bog out any ideas? still no check engine lights etc

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Mr.Sleepercb7 View Post
                            Ok so i got the ecu it solve my iab issue and i did the timing belt again so no misfires.. but now my car still won't idle when i start it up on a cold start it idle's around 700 this is a cold start normally hondas idle around 1500-2000 on a cold start! soo i took it out on a drive and when it heated up everytime i would come to a stop light or stop sign it would stall/bog out any ideas? still no check engine lights etc
                            Clean your IACV and FITV with brake cleaner.
                            And make sure your throttle line is adjusted correctly (not too loose, not too tight)
                            Dont forget to check ignition timing as well.

                            MRT

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