Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

P0F ECU? (H22a)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #31
    If my friend will quit being a bitch then I can test the ECU on his H22a CB and see what happens so I can plan for it. And when my friend runs his wagon in the mountains, it doesn't like it AT ALL.

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by darkfusion42 View Post
      Personally I'd just go chipped p28. well known to work, more options, less headache.

      Of course, personally I wouldnt have went with an H22 swap from that H23 anyway. You are gonna miss that torque..and for what, Vtec?

      I would have at least went with H23 vtec bluetop...same HP as the JDM H22, same amount of work, more torque.
      JDM H22A makes 197 hp, 161 ft/lb
      USDM H23A1 Makes 160 hp, 156 ft/lb


      Its a 37 hp and 5 ft/lb gain...

      H23A Blue top nets 163 ft/lb, 2 ft/lb over the H22A, not even noticeable.

      Comment


        #33
        Considerations

        Though what you said may be true, there are other considerations to take.

        mainly that the numbers you listed were peak HP and peak Torques.

        Even if you only gain 2 peak tq, this does not mean you didn't gain significantly other places in the curve, specifically down low.

        201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View Post
          Though what you said may be true, there are other considerations to take.

          mainly that the numbers you listed were peak HP and peak Torques.

          Even if you only gain 2 peak tq, this does not mean you didn't gain significantly other places in the curve, specifically down low.
          Yeah true, I wasn't even thinking about the rest of the powerband.

          Comment


            #35
            Yup gotta think about when and where you are getting that power.

            Comment


              #36
              The H23A would have more usable torque down low... but really, it's not THAT different. Plus, to my knowledge, the H23A VTEC isn't built as a performance engine like the H22A is. It didn't come in a Prelude, or a balls-out Accord (those had the F20B or H22A in them.)






              Comment


                #37
                Dag I still didn't get to try that ECU today. Hopefully I will tomorrow.

                Comment


                  #38
                  I slapped it in my car today. The only bad thing is that it looks for too many sensors and its throwing a light. I am having problems with VTEC and such but I will be posting those problems in the tech section.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    "too many sensors"?






                    Comment


                      #40
                      LMAO yea like O2, EGR, and Knock!

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by EJX_Michael View Post
                        JDM H22A makes 197 hp, 161 ft/lb
                        USDM H23A1 Makes 160 hp, 156 ft/lb


                        Its a 37 hp and 5 ft/lb gain...

                        H23A Blue top nets 163 ft/lb, 2 ft/lb over the H22A, not even noticeable.
                        really?

                        being a h23a vtec owner, crank on these motors are weak, they still have a 87 bore, a h22a4 looking piston dome, h22 head just weaker bottom end

                        that bullshit that the h23a, h22, etc makes 163, 197, 160, 106 234556634, its flywheel hp AGAIN, "my f22a6 145hp", give me a break

                        bigger displacement will always mean more power, again same dillema, with gsr owners that get rapped by h22a cb's, this thread can go on and on and go through 15 topics

                        OP, you have to have somebody close to you with a chipped ecu for a h22a
                        put that one and run your car, if its still running like shit, then its a NECESSARY sensor you have malfunctioning, IF "OMG THE CAR RUNS LIKE A BAT OUTTA HELL, VTEC IS MAAAD LOUD, IT CHIRPS 3RD" then im pretty sure it was emmissions related or knock retarding timing

                        i wish everyone here had the chance to work and understand at least crome
                        being that if you really look at it, its basically fully progamable ecu
                        the same as the haltech, your neighbor has on his rx7, or microtech from your cousing in his corolla etc, they all use tps, map, iat, ect, #injectors and different types of ignition, just some use different imputs and others have different options

                        being this said, should he bother with a pof or p13, that will make him spend $100 on a 02, $50 on a vtec psi, $40 on a egr, and $110 on a knock sensor, i like to spend my money wisely guys, p13 or p0f is NOT a wise decision
                        Last edited by PR CB7; 03-20-2011, 01:57 PM.
                        Originally posted by deevergote
                        Just do what PR CB7 said.

                        "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

                        Comment


                          #42
                          I slapped the P0F in and it worked like a charm except for the 345908735 CEL's. I slapped the P28 in that my friend let me borrow and its a beast except for the VTEC that hits mad late (5600 RPM) causing a scrotum to the back rest acceleration instead of the smooth crossover. Im gonna have a custom chip made for my needs here locally.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            If your front brakes didn't work, would you bypass them or fix them?

                            Fix the CELs and you will have fewer problems down the road.
                            Originally posted by Junior Smurff
                            Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

                            I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!

                            Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.


                            I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              I would totally love to argue that opinion. My friend who has an H22a1 coupe through codes for O2, EGR, and Knock because all that crapola was broke and needed replacement. He picked up a P28, went to RLZ Engineering and got a chip from a previous tune and he hasn't had ANY issues for about 2 years now. A P28 can pick up just as much as a P13 or P0F thats important thats absolutely needed for engine operation. Now, the P0F ecu I have is actually going into an automatic Prelude which is going to be bone stock except for the H22a swap. Why purchase all that stuff to get your car running right and then end up having to disable it or not be able to use it to begin with? Its a waste of money unless you just want a stock ecu and a stock setup.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                You never HAVE to disable those sensors. In fact, it's better not to. Unless you're building an all-out race car that won't make use of those sensors, it is best to tune with them. If your tuner says he doesn't need sensors... especially the o2 sensor... then it'd be smart to go elsewhere for tuning. Disabling sensors on a car that is intended to be a daily driver is halfassing things.

                                Personally, I'd like to have both the o2 sensor AND the knock sensor functional!



                                Can you run your car on a map with no o2 sensor feedback? Sure. Would it be a good idea? Not really.






                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X