....how does the port and bolt pattern differ between the f22a and h23?
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YES! the H23 head does fit on the F22ax block..
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what is honda bond? I've read that word a billion times but have yet to figure it out.. is it jb-weld?WTB:
88-01 prelude 2.0si (3g) si (4g,5g)
OR
90-93 Accord.
Has to be 5spd, has to be CHEAP. SUPER CHEAP. Will be in Indiana in February permanently and want a project car when I get settled in.
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Alright, there's some kind of shifty info here... reading on the first page where it says the H23 belt with the F22 pump leaves the tensoner near maxed out, but it works, lead me to get an H23 belt since I didn't see anyone talking about an integra belt in here, but my tensoner bottomed all the way out and it still wasn't tight enough. I did some searching to see if there was a belt with one less tooth, and sure enough, integra type R, one less tooth, but 2 mm wider. I checked, and I have 2mm to spare for sure, some other people have said they have had no problem with the wider belt, but be mindful of that extra width, I didn't see where, but someone sounded like they were saying some people have had problems with it. In the same topic I found this, I found that apearantly the H23 and F22 waterpumps fit on the F22b1, so It sounds like that same option could be had when doing the F22aX/H23a1 hybrid, and it was also stated that using the H23 waterpump means you can use the H23 timing belt, F22 needs the GSR belt. So, it sounds to me like if you're doing this hybrid, get the GSR belt and keep the F22 waterpump, unless someone can confirm for sure the H23 waterpump fits and you're going to replace the waterpump anyway (I would, but I just did my timing belt 3,000 miles before doing this, so mine was new.). I compaired pictures of the two and they look the same
Hopefully having this info in this thread will save someone money. I already have to repay $600 ($348 for my bottom end rebuild, the rest for my new clutch and flywheel since mine were jacked) and now it'll be $630, and I will have wasted $24 because of this damn beltLast edited by jumpman83; 09-24-2005, 02:56 AM.
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pfft.. odd.. but true.. considering tylers tensioner was near maxed out but the h23 belt did just fine.. so i dont see what u did or may have done wrong.. it works perfectly fine.. h23 belt and all.. now.. yes u CAN use the Type R belt.. but its not necc.. ive done several f22/h23 all with h23 tbelt.. and f22 tensioner.. so that boggles the boat mang.. good luck to ya sir..
Praise The Lowered...
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Originally posted by WiKKeDV16ive done several f22/h23 all with h23 tbelt.. and f22 tensioner
I dunno how that worked, not sure how it could be possible for it to be different from one to the next, but ah well. I got the B18 belt on there now, barely had to tighten it to be at full tension. Nice to have room to tighten it more if it loosens. Turns out the extra 2 mm width I thought had to spare was right everywhere but down on the drive gear. There wasn't enough room for the balancer shaft drive gear to sit on the timing gear like it's supposed to, so if anyone else encounters this problem, I made a spacer. All it takes is a dremel and a piece of plexiglass or aluminum, make a circle, cut out a circle in it, put a notch in for the key, and there you go, no risk of rubbing, which sounds like a good way to make it snap.
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