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help with my auto h22 accelaration

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    help with my auto h22 accelaration

    ok so here's the problem i noticed that when i don't let my car warm up it accelerates fast but after driving for 5 min its starts loosing power accelerates really slow and fells like i'm gonna run out of gas at cruising speeds all this started happening after the vacuum lines were re-connected and timing was adjusted the guy that did this said that it was odd that he had to turn the distributor all the way to the stop to get the timing where it should be, it was done by a fellow cb7tuner.i had a check engine light on for egr valve got rid of it. but now i have this problem any ideas what it could be

    #2
    Sounds like your friend might no know where the timing marks are.
    He must think the timing mark is where they put the TDC Mark.

    If hes lined it up with a RED mark thats the wrong mark (OEM Flywheel/flexplate)

    You want to look for a white mark lower down, surrounded by two red marks, but paint can come off.
    Being retardedly far away from the 15BTDC will result in less power, whichever way u go.

    Another thing that can effect the timing, is if he set it while it was warming up or if the idle was higher.

    I remember I had my dizzy retarded too far and it felt like nothing was happening.
    Got 33mpg though!
    Last edited by CB7Man; 04-05-2010, 01:28 AM.
    Your man for wiring solutions!
    CB7Man's Coupe H22 Swap
    CB7Man's Sedan Resurrected From The Dead

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      #3
      I'd be happy to take another look to see if we can get this taken care of. Just let me know when you can make it down here.
      Originally posted by Junior Smurff
      Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

      I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!

      Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.


      I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.

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        #4
        it happened to my car. i never fixed but narrowed it down to a problematic ecu (burnt parts inside). i also had to bump up the timing to make up for it. it pretty much sucks. does you car shift past 3k when floored?

        no
        Accord turbo kit under $2k here
        $30 HID kits here Thread
        "What a selfish bitch. She looks like one too. A smart-mouthed, facebook-ing, "i dont know if im straight, bi or *** yet" little brat." -greencb7inkc
        "No Herra Frush, Slammed, tucked or frame dragging here. I'll leave that to the mini trucks...." -fishdonotbounce

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          #5
          Originally posted by 4GAccordH22 View Post
          I'd be happy to take another look to see if we can get this taken care of. Just let me know when you can make it down here.
          im affraid to drive it dont want to mess up somehing im getting it towed to places.i took it to a shop and i explained to the guy that it had a swap i told him what engne it was he said (no problem bring it in) 1 week later i get a call to come pick it up.he said he couldnt do nothing because it had the wrong engine and ecu.i said what u mean.he said that engine dosent belong there LOL he wanted to charge me $80 but i refuse to pay we got in a argumet i didnt pay him nothing.took my car and left.im taking it to blacktrax next week i just wanted to see if any other members had this problem and what they did.but thanks bro u got rid of my check engine light

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Law Grandeur View Post
            it happened to my car. i never fixed but narrowed it down to a problematic ecu (burnt parts inside). i also had to bump up the timing to make up for it. it pretty much sucks. does you car shift past 3k when floored?
            yeah. its slow picking up speed but when v-tec hits runs fine

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              #7
              well if vtec engages then you dont have limp/retard mode which is a good thing. what ecu and tcu do you have in there?

              no
              Accord turbo kit under $2k here
              $30 HID kits here Thread
              "What a selfish bitch. She looks like one too. A smart-mouthed, facebook-ing, "i dont know if im straight, bi or *** yet" little brat." -greencb7inkc
              "No Herra Frush, Slammed, tucked or frame dragging here. I'll leave that to the mini trucks...." -fishdonotbounce

              Comment


                #8
                jdm p13 and p19

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                  #9
                  i honestly have no clue then. if your tcu and ecu are fine i cant think of anything else other than a problematic tranny. how's the fluid? is it cherry red? i remember during the summer months my car was really slow. the heat really took its toll on it.



                  i'd take it to 4GAccordH22 since he can actually take a look at it in person.

                  no
                  Accord turbo kit under $2k here
                  $30 HID kits here Thread
                  "What a selfish bitch. She looks like one too. A smart-mouthed, facebook-ing, "i dont know if im straight, bi or *** yet" little brat." -greencb7inkc
                  "No Herra Frush, Slammed, tucked or frame dragging here. I'll leave that to the mini trucks...." -fishdonotbounce

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I would almost 100% guarantee that your ECU has a burnt section in it.
                    All those JDM H22's have a section for the IABs that burns up because the "black box" under the intake was made wrong.
                    Its possible it could've damaged other parts.

                    I still think your timing is off, the ECU advances the timing when its cold, when if your timing is retarded, the ECU is then making it closer to correct.
                    Your man for wiring solutions!
                    CB7Man's Coupe H22 Swap
                    CB7Man's Sedan Resurrected From The Dead

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Any luck getting this fixed?
                      Originally posted by Junior Smurff
                      Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

                      I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!

                      Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.


                      I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        cliffs:
                        -CEL after getting 2nd H swap put in
                        -Goes on once motor is warmed up and you try to accelerate passed 2500-3000k. runs normal before that. and can also be reset while driving, and can be kept off as long as not exceeding that RPM.



                        tell me if what i'm describing is the same thing; H22 5spd in a 90.

                        fried piston rings had me replacing to another H this passed winter. since the second swap i have a similar sounding problem.

                        i start my car. from the time the engine is cold to the time it reaches running temp, it's fine it's smooth and i can accel normal.

                        after that, (depending on the gear i'm in, cause the ratio affects what RPM this occurs at), but in 4th gear, if i accel or hold the throttle to merge on the highway, at 70-80kmh the check engine light goes on. (in 5th gear this will happen at about 90kmh. it's always around when the RPM is maintained in any gear passed ~ 2500-3000 RPM. and the car just feels like it cuts almost half the power. i can go on the highway from my house with the engine still cool, and no light will go on yet, even at 120km/h.....continue cruising and once it's warmed up, the light comes on.

                        while the car is in motion, i can turn the key fast off/on, the engine goes off for a second and starts, the CEL is reset, and it runs fine, until i go over that designated RPM. i feel it in the pedal response a split second before the light actually comes back on.

                        basically i can keep it off while i city drive. i always cruise in 5th, keep it at 2000 RPM no prob. i avoid using the highways often though.

                        the thing is i can't diagnose anything because the 1990, you count flashes, on my H ECU, you plug it. so i have no plug and no light to count.

                        it wasn't O2, and my mech said the only other thing that would malfunction once the engine is warmed up is the EGR...VTEC still works though.

                        i've been driving around with this shit since the new year started and i can't even enjoy a fresh swap.
                        Last edited by DeathFromAbove; 05-18-2010, 04:36 PM.

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                          #13
                          got it fixed took it to blacktrax.now i need a brake job

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Why exactly can't you get the cel code?

                            I am confused as to why you cannot get the cel code. I drive a 90 and well about 1/4 of the people on here drive a 90. You can check engine lights on a 90 accord even with an h22 swap.

                            My guess is that you are getting something like a misfire or knock cel. This is bad, the first h22 I ever rode in blew up because this was not corrected.

                            My guess is that you are off on timing (most likely case). There are lots of other possibilities, such as tps being off, and a world of other random issues, you need to get the cel.

                            201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

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