Originally posted by Prez808
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostThe complete changeover comes with WAY more stuff than you'd need. That's what I got, and I just have this pile of crap in my basement that I've never touched.
The engine/trans/ecu deal is probably the best one to go with. I forget if the warranty is different for the different packages, though...
Any F or H transmission that isn't ATTS or RWD will work with any other F or H engine (F20C/F22C excluded, obviously)
I was reading about IAB's. I have an f22a4, which I don't think has them, but is this a concern when swapping an h22a?
Also, would I be better off getting a newer h22a (96+ OBD II) with lower miles and wear? I know there might be some additional wiring, but is it a lot, little, moderate?
Thanks,
Cris P.
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I really like my jdm h22, i get decent gas milage with it. I drove from way up in wisconsin down to the south side of oklahoma, and back on $90. 3 fill ups. I did have my f22 trans on it for a while and it just made the whole thing doggy compared to the m2a4. i didnt even notice a difference in gas milage.
the obd 1 h22 is real strong, but efficient.
IMO The h22 is the only way to go...if your looking for something economical, but still fun. The only downside to the m2a4 trans is that 5th gear. I like cruisin the free way at 90, and my revs are almost a 5k steady. :P oh well
Get the obd1 93-95 h22a and then get a p28 ecu, with a h22 basemap and a wiring harness adapter obd1-2.
Youll save yourself time and money, as the obd1 seems to be about half the price of the obd2 ones, if you get the obd1 make sure you check the motor from top to bottom, my release bearing and shift fork were fried due to improper greasing
OH YEA AND IM A LITTLE IN THE DARK ABOUT THOSE IABS ON JDM VS USDM MOTORS TOO, SOOOO ANYONE KNOW WHATS UP WITH THAT?Last edited by tweekers; 04-02-2010, 12:46 PM.91 LX Coupe H22 swap, n/a build in progress. "007 CB7"
I'll smoke your v8 like I smoke my ganja
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Originally posted by s2cmpugh View PostShould I be worried if I don't receive a power steering pump or alternator?
I was reading about IAB's. I have an f22a4, which I don't think has them, but is this a concern when swapping an h22a?
Also, would I be better off getting a newer h22a (96+ OBD II) with lower miles and wear? I know there might be some additional wiring, but is it a lot, little, moderate?
Thanks,
Cris P.
The F22A4 does not have IABs, correct. You'll need to wire the IAB system that's on the H22A's manifold to the P13 ECU (which is the H22's ECU)
Originally posted by tweekers View PostI really like my jdm h22, i get decent gas milage with it. I drove from way up in wisconsin down to the south side of oklahoma, and back on $90. 3 fill ups. I did have my f22 trans on it for a while and it just made the whole thing doggy compared to the m2a4. i didnt even notice a difference in gas milage.
the obd 1 h22 is real strong, but efficient.
IMO The h22 is the only way to go...if your looking for something economical, but still fun. The only downside to the m2a4 trans is that 5th gear. I like cruisin the free way at 90, and my revs are almost a 5k steady. :P oh well
Get the obd1 93-95 h22a and then get a p28 ecu, with a h22 basemap and a wiring harness adapter obd1-2.
Youll save yourself time and money, as the obd1 seems to be about half the price of the obd2 ones, if you get the obd1 make sure you check the motor from top to bottom, my release bearing and shift fork were fried due to improper greasing
OH YEA AND IM A LITTLE IN THE DARK ABOUT THOSE IABS ON JDM VS USDM MOTORS TOO, SOOOO ANYONE KNOW WHATS UP WITH THAT?
There is no time or money to be saved by getting a P28 ECU with a generic basemap... in fact, any ECU that is running a map that isn't designed for that particular engine can cause damage. The P28 should only be used if you can tune it for the motor it's running.
There is generally no price difference between OBD1 and OBD2 H22s. OBD1 is slightly easier. They're all old at this point, so it's more important to buy from a reliable source. A 1994 H22 from a good source is better than a 1999 H22 from a questionable source.
To my knowledge, there are no differences in the IAB system between JDM and USDM H22s. The Euro R and Type S motors do not have IABs, but the base models do (and I highly recommend the base model... the others are too expensive for the minimal gains that come with them. modifying a base model to make more power would be cheaper)
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostSee what is included in the package you buy. If you don't get what you paid for, then yes... something is wrong, and should be fixed. Know what you're buying before you pay anyone.
The F22A4 does not have IABs, correct. You'll need to wire the IAB system that's on the H22A's manifold to the P13 ECU (which is the H22's ECU)
Please don't give bad advice in this section.
There is no time or money to be saved by getting a P28 ECU with a generic basemap... in fact, any ECU that is running a map that isn't designed for that particular engine can cause damage. The P28 should only be used if you can tune it for the motor it's running.
There is generally no price difference between OBD1 and OBD2 H22s. OBD1 is slightly easier. They're all old at this point, so it's more important to buy from a reliable source. A 1994 H22 from a good source is better than a 1999 H22 from a questionable source.
To my knowledge, there are no differences in the IAB system between JDM and USDM H22s. The Euro R and Type S motors do not have IABs, but the base models do (and I highly recommend the base model... the others are too expensive for the minimal gains that come with them. modifying a base model to make more power would be cheaper)
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Originally posted by deevergote View PostAs long as you have the IAB control box and the proper ECU, you shouldn't need anything more than wires and/or vac lines. (I apologize that I can't be more helpful... I've never actually done it myself)
H22A power steering pump it is then.
Thanks guys!
Cris P.
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