help from you jdm h22a drivers

[wallycb7]

when i did my swap i got a ecu from japan, im not sure why when i plug it up it makes my car idle, but when i plug up the the ones from here it doesnt. jw because right now im running a chipped one that doesnt redline but vtech doesnt kick in till 6k so i wanna make my stock one from japan work.

now second question how do you guys get the power steering to fit?

[jdm_inspired]

when i did my swap i got a ecu from japan, im not sure why when i plug it up it makes my car idle, but when i plug up the the ones from here it doesnt. jw because right now im running a chipped one that doesnt redline but vtech doesnt kick in till 6k so i wanna make my stock one from japan work.

now second question how do you guys get the power steering to fit?

Im not really getting your first question but for the second one...

You can use a prelude PS line. It works perfectly. Use the prelude PS pump also.

[RICHIE*GT35R]

When I did my swap I use the P13 for now. Then I got it tune with the P28. And the power steering pump, I don't have one

[wallycb7]

Im not really getting your first question but for the second one...

You can use a prelude PS line. It works perfectly. Use the prelude PS pump also.

aw i see thanks, the first question, when i plug up my p13 ecu that came with the engine my rpm idle jumps 1000 to 1500 constantly

When I did my swap I use the P13 for now. Then I got it tune with the P28. And the power steering pump, I don't have one

haha yeah man im runnin without it too but damn the steering is hard as heck.

[tweekers]

aw i see thanks, the first question, when i plug up my p13 ecu that came with the engine my rpm idle jumps 1000 to 1500 constantly



haha yeah man im runnin without it too but damn the steering is hard as heck.

hey i just finished my swap not to long ago and i just made a post about my car doing the same thing. Im running the p13 and i heard those can create some drivability issues with cb7s i wonder if its a climate thing or something....but anyways you also got a chipped p28 and when you run the p28 it idles fine but with the p13 is goes up and down???? hmmmm i wonder if everything on my motor is fine my ecu just sucks

[tweekers]

u get it from tiger? i made a stink about them not including an ecu and they sent me one for free...

[4CYLPOWER92]

The JDM P13 should work fine. Can you post the part number of the ECU? And have you tried another P13?

As far as the prelude ps line, it's not a perfect fit but it works. The best way to do it is to have the f22 line and h22 line mated. A place that specializes in hydraulic hoses could do it.

[gloryaccordy]

I heard u could run the F22 pump if u use one bolt?

[tweekers]

i think you can shim the f22 pump but from what i remember the h22 ps line and the f22 line bend in opposite ways at the end so it might be hard to mate it up to the f22 pump, or impossible...idk i dont have power steering i got TORQUE STEER now whooo lol i just couldnt afford the line

[TheNextEpisode]

Regarding the power steering issue, I learned a lot from Tim's swap write up here:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...8&postcount=41

when i took off the accord line and compared it to the prelude line, the bends were very different. i read on other threads that you can just maneuver the lines to make it fit. in my case this couldn’t be possible. due to having the suspension techniques front sway bar, the new line wasn’t able to clear the movement of the beefier bar. my next move was to try and cut the two lines and couple the accord lower half to the prelude upper half. i see people braze the upper halves of the hoses but my motor didn’t come with enough hose to do so, and i had a new prelude line anyway. so i ended up cuting the lower half. here is the comparison of the two. the prelude line is on the left.


this closer shot shows the difference in the bends. the prelude line has more aggressive bends. on top of having another small rubber isolator, even the location of the main rubber isolator is different (it can be unglued and relocated anyway).


after it was cut, there were a few options to couple it: use flare fittings or braze it together. at first i tried to use 5/16” inverted flare fittings and a coupler but i didn’t give myself enough room on the line to get the fittings and flaring tool on the end. since that didn’t work at all next would be to weld it. the machine shop (http://www.pendarvismanufacturing.com) and i thought the line was aluminum so a special weld was necessary. the owner couldn’t guarantee a good clean couple so he referred me to a hose specialist; the hose-man (http://www.hose-man.com). specializing in hydraulic hoses they were able to couple the line. they also found out that the line was actually steel (using a magnet) and that no special welding was necessary.

there were able to put a fitting that can swivel to the right bend i needed to make it work in the engine bay. the fitting was similar to an inverted flare fitting too! i was very impressed by their work and professionalism. just take a look at the finished product. you can see how close to the bend and other fitting i cut the line, to the point where i couldn’t get the flare fittings to slide down all the way to get the flaring tool to work. anyway they made it work and i’m happy!

The f22 p/s pump is also usable, but only two of the p/s pump bracket bolt holes line up to the block. I ran the f22 power steering pump for some time, before eventually switching to the h22 set up.

I managed to be able to get the h22 high pressure p/s line to fit:

I ran into sort of an unusual problem regarding the power steering pump. I finally purchased an h22 power steering line from H23CB7 () and a jdm h22 power steering pump. The high pressure line mounted up perfectly to the accord rack and to the p/s pump.

but I had issues with the low pressure return line:

The low pressure hose between the p/s fluid reservoir and the p/s pump, however, will not work. I'm sure its a completely normal thing, but I've never come across posts of other people having this problem.

Basically, the h22 power steering pump has a male fitting, about 3/4" in diameter while the f22 reservoir has a male fitting about 1/2" in diameter. Opposite ends of the same hose are supposed to fit over each male fitting.

First off, on a previous post, I said that the accord low pressure power steering hose had an inner diameter of 1/2" and the h22 hose had an inner diameter of 3/4". Its actually more like 3/8" and 5/8", respectively.

So I kinda half-assed my low pressure power steering feed line. I wasn't really satisfied with it, and I was worried that it was part of the problem of my frothy power steering fluid.

I had initially just used a 1/2" inner diameter tube that slipped on the PS pump and then band clamped the heck out of it on the reservoir side. Didn't look nice. I picked up a prelude low pressure power steering hose at the yard, a "street" 1/2" 45 degree copper connector, and a couple band clamps.

Basically, the street connector is made so that one end slips over a 1/2" o.d. pipe while the other end slips into a 1/2" i.d. pipe. It turns out that the first end slips [with force] into the h23 hose and that the other end slips [with a whole lot of force] into the f22 hose. When the f22 hose didn't fit over the connector at first, I set the hose in a cup of boiling water to expand the hose slightly. I don't think it really helped, but it gave me a chance to get over being frustrated.




Cruise control removed, the larger p/s fitting is on the p/s pump and the smaller fitting is on the p/s reservoir.



Hacked up pieces of the two hoses on top, usable pieces on bottom, connector jammed into the h23 low pressure hose.



Connected!



Back in the bay, the larger p/s fitting has the larger h23 end of the hose.



Connector, tucked under the cruise control unit



Smaller fitting on the reservoir has the f22 end of the hose.


Started up the car and got the same horrible grinding sound. I then jacked the car off the ground and turned the wheel nearly lock-to-lock 40 times. By that point the fluid level had dropped about an inch and a half and the grinding noise was down by maybe 70%. Topped of the reservoir, took it for a gentle drive, and by the time I got back, the grinding was quiet and occurred only occasionally. Good enough for me.

Hopefully it'll lessen over time.

With that said, I don't think it was necessary to do the connector-nonsense that I just wrote about. But, whatever. Its done, its cleaner than before, and I have power steering again.

I'm pleased.

[TheNextEpisode]

ALSO, cp[mike] suggested a solution to my low pressure return line problem in my H swap page:

anyway about your power steering problem, yes thats normal... you can either get a coupler, OR... the 1/2" accord hose will fit inside of the 3/4" prelude hose. so if you cut both in half you can put one into the other, and put a clamp over it. ive done it this way, and it hasnt leaked... since its low pressure anyway.

[jdm_inspired]

Hmm maybe I ended up bending it a little. Worked for me

No major bending that I recall. Id sell it but I ended up cutting it since I looped the lines.

[4CYLPOWER92]

Hmm maybe I ended up bending it a little. Worked for me

No major bending that I recall. Id sell it but I ended up cutting it since I looped the lines.

It'll bend alright. But afterwards you can't fit the cover over the ps box unless you either; A. Cut the metal cover. It's sheet metal so it cuts easily.
or B. leave one or two of the bolts out of the cover.
Either way you can't get the bolt back in that secures the line to the crossmember. Not that it really matters that much. Although maybe it's possible with the engine out.

The best way is like TheNextEpisode quoted. One of these days I'm going to get around to doing this. I cut my ps box cover.

[jdm_inspired]

It'll bend alright. But afterwards you can't fit the cover over the ps box unless you either; A. Cut the metal cover. It's sheet metal so it cuts easily.
or B. leave one or two of the bolts out of the cover.
Either way you can't get the bolt back in that secures the line to the crossmember. Not that it really matters that much. Although maybe it's possible with the engine out.

The best way is like TheNextEpisode quoted. One of these days I'm going to get around to doing this. I cut my ps box cover.

The cover fit fine. Honest.
Hmmm JDM PS line? Wonder if theres a difference. Shouldnt.

Not challenging your knowledge in any way, its just that mine fit in with hardly any effort. Well the effort was trying to thread the line down the engine bay with the engine in. That was quite the pita.

[4CYLPOWER92]

The cover fit fine. Honest.
Hmmm JDM PS line? Wonder if theres a difference. Shouldnt.

Not challenging your knowledge in any way, its just that mine fit in with hardly any effort. Well the effort was trying to thread the line down the engine bay with the engine in. That was quite the pita.

Yeah I don't know if a JDM ps line would be different or not. But me and a couple others had the same problem with the line not fitting. I held them up side by side and the H22 ps line is a lot longer at the bottom side, with different bends.