H22 header and A/C

[Stoner51]

I am getting ready to order my header for my h22 swap. I was about to order a JVT from some online place. Do a little searching and find out the the f22 version looses the A/C. That is unacceptable, I need AC
Does the Megan, JVT all allow you to keep the AC?
I have invested some money in this swap no motor yet, but ECU, Timing belt stuff, iridium wires and plugs, new clutch(need this anyway). Pretty much the only thing I need is the Header, ws2 and the motor.
So what headers allow me to keep A/C. Motor will be h22a obdI.
thanks
steve
I searched and people list their headers and h22 but I didn't see for sure anybody has AC, I saw a lot of AC deletes.

[nine_deuce]

I have a no-name header I got from Ebay on my h22 and I kept the a/c. I can take some pics tomorrow if ya want. The lines are very close to the header tho

[C91BLX7]

Wrap some foil around the lines, should help protect it.

[nine_deuce]

Can you use header wrap? And I haven't really noticed a big difference in the temp of the a/c. It's still pretty cold

[C91BLX7]

Can you use header wrap? And I haven't really noticed a big difference in the temp of the a/c. It's still pretty cold

yeah but i was talking about foil on the a/c line, free and easy lol

[4GAccordH22]

I have a Greddy header and AC on my H22A1. Nary a problem...

[Stoner51]

Thanks guys. Going to go with the megan header for now just had to make sure I could still keep the AC. The pics I saw you couldn't connect the lines to the ac compressor.
And by cheap ebay header you mean the one that costs like 75?
steve

[nine_deuce]

Yes, the under 100 dollar header.

And I wanted to know about the header wrap on the a/c line, mine look like crap, all the insulation *I guess that's what you call it* is fraying and just looks awful

[Stoner51]

couldn't you just get some pipe wrap for insulating water heater lines?
steve

[cb9wagon]

i just bought a header from craigslist that ordered it off ebay. it's a Stainless h22 header and it doesn't fit very well. at the mid pipe connention it's very close to the block not allowing a socket on the 14mm head nuts for the connection.

A/c clears with as much or more room the original covered header. so i'm leaving on the insulation

[CB7Man]

I used the factory header with the factory heatshield.
Slightly bent the A/C line out of the way, then bent it back to fit the radiator back in.

To retain A/C Use:
H22 Crank Pulley (You need to have the pulley taken off in order to lower into the engine bay.)
H22 Alternator (Why not, its almost new right?)
F22 A/C Compressor (Swap the F22 A/C Bracket, the H22 one wont work)

Now bring it all together with a 43 Inch Belt, It needs to be one rib less than the Prelude belt.

On a side note:
If useing the H22 Crank Pulley, it would be wise to FIRST, before putting the engine in, hammer the frame down slightly where the crank pulley goes.
Otherwise youll end up like me, I have to use a crowbar on the crank pulley in order to fit the belts between the Frame/Pulley. I have about 1/16" clearance Between the two.