F22b1 swap info

[Lroy onDA scene]

The p13 will be fine you'll just run roch I had vtec added and that was all, as for the POA you would have to swap the a6 and a11 pins nut people have had issues with POA's

oh yea n right now i have the f22a* dizzy, idk what they did to try n turn it on, i guess cut off a plug from the 96 harness and add it to mine...should it crank like that? as for the internal, whats that man?

[hotboxnaccord]

so im having trouble with this swap first off this car has been converted to five speed an i have a f22b1 swap um useing a f22b1 trans. i have the f22a driver mount esp trans mount an i have a rear trans 5 speed bracket my problem is that the mount is off about 1" can any one help me out i tryed a 5 speed rear mount but its still off do i needa find a auto 94-97 accout mount an bracket or should i find a auto cb7 rear bracket?

[Darkcloud]

Use a 94-97 mount

[frankeefiggscb7]

im gonna be using a p28.... any idea on how to wire up the vtec?? diagram or something??

['93CB7Ex]

im gonna update this some.

I recently did this swap, well still working on a few bugs. runs 100% though.

HEADER: I had to nearly the front subframe in half in order to get a header to fit.
ECU: you really need a P0A. this engine without vtec is an absolute dog. im talking this shit is so slow.
THROTTLE CABLE: i used the stock pieces and just moved the cable bracket up 1 hole and really tightened it down. no problems yet.
FUEL LINE: I took 2 stock fuel lines and cut opposite ends off each. used a fuel injection hose clamp and clamped the 2 pieces together. no problems since. this way, you can reuse the factory fuel line again if you ever swap again.
DS ENGINE MOUNT: i used the f22ax piece. the timing belt does hit the mount. whats weird though, is when the cars cold it slaps the mount, but when its warm it all goes away and it quiet. havent really had much issue from this yet. hope it wont be an issue.

[Darkcloud]

im gonna update this some.

I recently did this swap, well still working on a few bugs. runs 100% though.

HEADER: I had to nearly the front subframe in half in order to get a header to fit. Did you use a stock header??

ECU: you really need a P0A. this engine without vtec is an absolute dog. im talking this shit is so slow.
THROTTLE CABLE: i used the stock pieces and just moved the cable bracket up 1 hole and really tightened it down. no problems yet.
I never thought of using the CC throttle hole, I used a cd5 cable

FUEL LINE: I took 2 stock fuel lines and cut opposite ends off each. used a fuel injection hose clamp and clamped the 2 pieces together. no problems since. this way, you can reuse the factory fuel line again if you ever swap again.
I used the b1 rail, all I did was swap the fittings

DS ENGINE MOUNT: i used the f22ax piece. the timing belt does hit the mount. whats weird though, is when the cars cold it slaps the mount, but when its warm it all goes away and it quiet. havent really had much issue from this yet. hope it wont be an issue.

That never happened to me.

[deevergote]

Perhaps there are differences between the OBD1 and OBD2 F22B1?

[HappyGilmore]

Perhaps there are differences between the OBD1 and OBD2 F22B1?

Quite a few actually. The ECU's are completely different.


I have this Engine in my BB1 (long story as to why). Also note that wiring is partially backwards to a CB7 when using the F22B1 engine. Also the dizzy firing order is backwards to the F22A/H22/F22B2 (Non-VTEC).

['93CB7Ex]

That never happened to me.

i used both. my engine came with a brand new header. ill upload pics some day of how much i had to cut the frame.

[802cb7]

so not to dust off a semi old thread here. But my engine is getting really tired, leaking from everywhere and the PO didnt quite line up the bottom end when he did the timing belt, which is causing me to have my distributor almost fully advanced. Has anyone come up with a complete how to yet on this swap? I ask this because my local junk yard has several of these and they're very cheap. Or I can get one from an engine company. I eventually want to do an H22 swap, but for now I need a good reliable engine that can be swapped in relatively quickly. Something that I can trust to take on long road trips, and not have to worry about while I focus on the rest on the rest of the car and saving for the H22 swap. Thanks!!!

[deevergote]

You'd be better off simply swapping in another F22A. The more modification you have to do, the greater the chances there are of doing something wrong.
This thread is the most complete set of instructions we have for this swap, unfortunately.

If you do decide to go ahead and do it, it would be a great help if you were the one to write a DIY!