Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Idling issues with freshly swapped h22

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Idling issues with freshly swapped h22

    Just putting the finishing touches on a h22 swap dropped into a 93 SE. This motor used to be in a friends 1990 EX-R running fairly well with no issues, car was totalled so out come the motor and went into another friend's 93 SE. Did an auto to 5 speed conversion at the same time.

    Now when it came out of the 90 Accord in Oct, it ran fine from what I recall. Had a couple codes like EGR but I fixed all those problems so the car could pass emissions last summer. After dropping it into the 93 SE, there is a bit of an idling issue.

    Idle is kind of weird. Like I'll have it set at 850rpms, once I give it a rev to say 2500rpms, the rpms go up, come down to about 1100 or so, stay there for 2-3 seconds (sometimes even up to 5 seconds), and then drop to 850.

    If that was the only problem, it's ok but say I have the rpms held right at 2000, if I turn on the AC, even with absolutely no movement of my feet, it will drop to roughly 1700 rpms. As soon as the compressor cycles off, it will bump back up to 2000. Is this normal?? I know at idle, when the compressor turns on, the idle will drop maybe from 850 to 800 but a drop of 300rpms when you are pressing the gas seems a bit much.

    Also, up until this morning, when the car is partially warm, if I give it a rev to 2500rpms, the idle will go up, then drop down to about 500, kind of stumble, and come back up to 850. I have since recalibrated the tps (0.5V closed, 4.4V WOT with ignition at 2). FIV, IACV, all cleaned out so I don't know if it still stumbles at partial warmup. It does not do this when the car is cold and when the car is fully warmed up.

    I am also having a tough time getting all the air out of the cooling system (air still coming out of the bleeder nipple even after car has run for 20 minutes or so) so this may have something to do with all the issues but with time running out before giving it back (tomorrow), I just want some suggestions on other things to check.

    With the friend living an hour+ away, I don't want him to have to keep bring his car here to fix small issues so I would really like to get this figured out now. At the same time...it has not been run on the road much at all yet....would you guys think that may have something to do with it? I'd say 10 minutes of driving down the street and back for a total of 6kms/3.75miles and about 1 hour of idling.

    All tune up type parts are new (plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc). I get no codes, cleaned out the iacv and fast idle valve (there was no coolant in the fiv which is why I realized the coolant has not been bled free of air), tried both Accord map and Prelude tb mounted map (seems to run better with the Accord map), timing set to 16degrees. Double checked the timing belt, it's on properly. When going for a drive, vtec engages properly, and no codes, good power, IAB seems to be working, but just has these standing idle kinks.

    Oh, if it makes any difference:
    00 Prelude base H22A
    P13 ECU not chipped
    all wires that were added were soldered and shrinkwrapped
    93 SE harness
    no codes, car runs well and pulls strong, vtec engages

    THANKS IN ADVANCE!

    #2
    Idle issues

    First things to do.

    Remove and clean IACV
    Remove clean and Tighten FITV
    Remove and clean the hell out of the egr port.

    If none of these issues fix your problems then you most likely will have to pull the intake manifold and drill tap and clean the egr service ports.

    If none of those things fix your idle issue (and sometimes they don't ) What most people do is run a chipped p06 or p28 ecu.

    Even stock from factory the p13 had some idle issues.

    If you need any assistance cleaning or tightening anything search in the diy section, there have been lots of threads about attempting to fix this problem.

    Good luck.

    Edit: For some additional information

    If you do not have the IACV plugged in and you remove the throttle cable your car should warm idle at 600 rpm. If it does not then you are still having some issues somewhere.
    Last edited by Ghetto_CB7; 02-26-2009, 11:46 PM.

    201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the quick response!

      IACV for sure was cleaned out very well the other day. FIV was cleaned, tightend the "nut" so the plunger ball seats tighter, and put back on. Also cleaned the idle adjustment screw area so it's free of carbon.

      Haven't really put much effort into cleaning the egr port so I'll try that for sure. For the EGR port cleaning, I assume you mean drill and slidehammer out the plugs like on f22s right?

      As for the p13, I didn't know they had issues so that's good to know. I do have a spare chipped for h22 p06 ecu given to me by the original 90 Accord owner but he said it ran like crap but I forgot if crap=won't pass emissions or didn't run right.

      Comment


        #4
        Yep

        Yes the ports are the same design as the f22, however I was unable to remove them using a punch and hammer. I actually broke a punch attempting to get the damn things out so I had to drill them.

        I have learned that the h22 and p13 definitely have the most "personality" of all the Honda engines I have worked with.

        If she is having a bad day you can tell LOL

        Good luck

        201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks. That is very good to know. I only drove the 90 Accord with the h22 to tune it up, fix some of the CELs it had, and get it to pass emissions. So I probably didn't drive it enough to experience one of the "bad" days lol.

          This problem was killing me because I am very careful with my work and I want to give the SE back to the owner knowing it's running 100% because I assumed the previous car also had no issues during the short span I took care of it. When it's running down the street, it is definitely running better than when it was in the 90, just the stupid idle thing is annoying especially because I can't remember if it did that before.

          Also, I keep getting conflicting reports of the voltage for the tps at closed. Some say 0.5, others say 0.45. Which is it??? I think the oem manual says 0.5V.

          Comment


            #6
            Tps

            Ahh tps.

            This is one of those sensors I have never gotten to read the specified voltages.

            Really If you are close you should be fine. As long as you are not throwing a code it should be fine. The actual air fuel ratio will be controlled and adjusted based on the readings from the o2 sensor so if you are not exactly on (I have never been) then the ecu will adjust accordingly.

            from my understanding it is really just a reference to the ecu to let it know where the throttle is and then the ecu will look at the a/f ratio and make adjustments accordingly.

            First time I adjusted one we literally drilled and filed the holes to try and get it to max at 5V LOL still only got to 4.8 or 4.9.

            the true values are supposed to be .5 - 5.0

            If I am wrong someone please correct me.

            201 Whp H22a with bolt ons, see the progress from stock f22a to now HERE

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks again! Manual does say 0.5 so I'll just stick with that. Just that I kept seeing people writing 0.45V on many boards, kinda started doubting everything haha.

              Comment

              Working...
              X