Alright so to help ease Deev's frustrations with the newbs I told him I'd go ahead and make a g23/g22 vtec(f23, f22, h23 bottom end w/ h22 head) thread for them. So here goes.
This thread can be applied to all these blocks:f22, f23, f23. My swaps have been done with f23s but there are minimal differences between them all.
Parts Needed:
1.h22 complete cylinder head( intake manifold, tb, injectors, fuel rail, dizzy,
cams, valvetrain, all sensors, you get the picture)
2. F23, F22, H23 complete block
3. H22 timing belt
4. H22 cylinder head gasket
5. H22 spark plug wires
6. H22 water crossover pipe and o-ring(thermostat housing side)
7. H22 thermostat housing, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and water neck
8. Water crossover pipe for whichever block your using
9. Water pump for whatever block your using
10. H22 crossover pipe o-ing(t-stat housing side)
11. Crossover pipe o-ring(water pump side) these may be the same^
12. H22 water pump(used if possible) to save some $$
13. H22 timing gears(crankshaft timing gear)
14. Balance shaft belt and timing gear for the block your using
15. Manual tensioner(timing belt) for the block your using. If its auto CONVERT IT
16. H22 exhaust manifold( i just bought after market headers and y-pipe, so no problems with bolting up)
17. H22 exhaust manifold gasket, and y-pipe gasket^^if you buy new headers and they don't come with it
18. H22 Intake manifold gasket set (if you want or if you remove any part of the intake manifold)
19. H22 camshaft seals
Tools needed:
1. Metric sockets: Sizes you should always have for honda, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 36mm<< for our axle nuts. For 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets. I'm lucky and have access to a air for my impact gun and have a electric impact gun. If you don't have any of these try to have a large 1/2 ratchet and/or a breaker bar.
2. Feeler gauges, you will need .006 for the intake and .007 for the exhaust( these are for the valve lash adjustment)
3. A cutoff wheel
4. A welder or machine shop
5. Measuring tape
6. a press and tools to press with, or a gear puller
7. Torque wrench
8. Haynes or Chilton manual for a prelude 92-01 doesn't matter and for the car your block came from if possible.
9. Polishing wheel(I use air powered, may be able to get a bit for a electric drill or even a dremel)
Head prep
Ok so lets get started, the first things you can get started with is your plan of attack for the 2 oil returns that have to be blocked off. Its the two on the ends of the head(driver side) front and back. This needs to be done because the h22 head is wider than the f/h23 block. You can take the head to a machine shop and have them install thread and plugs in each return I mentioned. Or if your planning on making this permanant, or a continuing with setups like this, you can have the two ports welded closed like I did. This is safer, get someone you trust to do this though, the head is aluminum and easy to damage or warp, and this is OIL we're talking about, pretty much the most important part of your motor.
NOTE: Of course if you buy a f23,h23,f22 long block your going to have to remove the cylinder head from that motor, so might as well get it out of the way. I can post up a fast way to do this if people request it. ( I can remove a cyl head in no more than 45 min in a car). But there will still be some things bypassed that will need to be removed regaurdless.....
Block Prep
1. Depends on the motor, but some do have a small diaphram in the oil port above the knock sensor mounting positon. (right in the center of the block. With the head off, you look at the deck you will see the hole i'm talking about). This need to be removed, this is where the cyl head recieves oil pressure for vtec to engage. You can remove it with a strong magnet sometimes, or thread a tap or screw into it and remove it.
2. The water crossover pipe that is for the block your using needs to be cut in half. The side you need is the side that goes into the back of your water pump. You will need to cut the h22 crossover pipe in half as well, of course you need the oppoosite side of this(side for the t-stat housing). Now if you wanto do this the right/legit way, measure out the length you need the pipe to be and cut accordingly, then have the pipe WELDED together. Some people connect the 2 pipes with a rubber hose and 2 clamps, this is up to you.
3. Onto the water pump situation. Wondering what your using that press for? Well your going to have to press the gear off the new water pump for the block your using, as well as press the gear off the h22 water pump. Now take the h22 water pump gear and press it onto the other water pump housing. Careful not to damage the housing, its aluminum so its not that strong. The gear comes off fairly easy, and make sure the pump still spins freely and easily when your done, If it doesn't your probably gonna need another pump sorry be more cautious next time
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. The bolt is usually a 19mm. If this hasn't been removed before it will be very tight. There is a special tool you can get from honda to hold the pulley to keep from spinning the motor over while trying to break the bolt loose. You can try to remove the bolt with a impact gun. Sometimes it will work sometimes not. If this doesn't work your going to have to figure out a way to keep the motor from spinning over. You can to lock the flywheel up with something, but be cafreful not damge to teeth. And try to break the bolt loose with a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. This wil make you curse alittle so remove any young children or people you don't want to upset. After this is removed, remove the lower timing cover. (all of them are 10mm bolts). Next remove the timing belt and water pump if its still in place.
5. The lower timing gear(crankshaft) needs to be swapped to a H22 gear, You can use the key-way for the block your using though. Very easy just remove the key way and slide the old one off, slide the new one on in its place and reinstall the key-way.
6. Now if your motor does now come with the motor mount bracket, you can use the h series bracket. It will work but one bolt hole will not line up.
Cylinder head install/prep:
NOTE: If you haven't messed with a h22/h23 head before, know this you cannot install the cams before you install the head on the block, The head bolts sit under the camshafts, not to the sides like a sohc does.
1. Your going to want to clean off the deck of the block(mating/gasket surface between the block and cyl head) I have a small angled polishing wheel I use. I've gotten away with sand paper when I was absolutely desperate, but you should be able to get that tool from almost anywhere. Along with the discs for the bit. Make sure to put paper towels or clothes in each cylinder, BEFORE doing this to keep debri out. After your done you should see a nice clean and fairly shiny surface. Wipe off the deck with a clean rag and remove the rags or paper towels from the cylinders.
2. Before install, make sure the h22 head has the dowel pins in place(small round cylinders, that fit into the head, they help line up the head gasket) You'll know the holes because they are stepped so the pin bottoms out. If it doesn't have any remove them from the f series head, but be careful not to bend them.<<You can grab them gently with pliers and rotate it as your pulling it outward.
3. After that make sure the cylinder head surface is clean, and get ready to install the head gasket. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! The headgasket, CAN be flipped around backwards and still allow the head to be bolted on, as well as everything else. So what I do is sit the cylinder head in front of you like it would be sitting in the car installed. Flip it up so its resting on the intake manifold studs. On what would be the left side or driver's side, there is a point towards the back corner. Now pick up the gasket and match it up to that point. You will see what i'm talking about because the gasket only has the point on the one side that is the same shape and size as the head.
4. If you removed the intake manifold, or just want to replace the gasket. You can install the new intake manifold gasket now after you clean off the mating surface. Then re-install the intake manifold.(this is simple, really don't think I need to explain)
5. Now place the head gasket on the block in the same direction and position I just told you.(so when the head is bolted down that point matches up with the point on the gasket.) Alright so we're are ready to setup the base timing. The bottom end is very simple. #1 cylinder should be a TDC(top dead center, all the way at the top of the cylinder, just before it starts going back down). And the key-way on the crank should be a 12 o'clock. If you didn't know cylinder #1 is the cylinder closest to the pulleys.
6. Now you can place the head on the block, try to line the gasket up as straight as possible with all the ports. Or what you can do is leave the gasket placed on the head(slipped over the dowel pins) and then install the head on the block. This is alittle easier for beginners but it can be done either way I mentioned above.
This thread can be applied to all these blocks:f22, f23, f23. My swaps have been done with f23s but there are minimal differences between them all.
Parts Needed:
1.h22 complete cylinder head( intake manifold, tb, injectors, fuel rail, dizzy,
cams, valvetrain, all sensors, you get the picture)
2. F23, F22, H23 complete block
3. H22 timing belt
4. H22 cylinder head gasket
5. H22 spark plug wires
6. H22 water crossover pipe and o-ring(thermostat housing side)
7. H22 thermostat housing, thermostat, coolant temp sensor and water neck
8. Water crossover pipe for whichever block your using
9. Water pump for whatever block your using
10. H22 crossover pipe o-ing(t-stat housing side)
11. Crossover pipe o-ring(water pump side) these may be the same^
12. H22 water pump(used if possible) to save some $$
13. H22 timing gears(crankshaft timing gear)
14. Balance shaft belt and timing gear for the block your using
15. Manual tensioner(timing belt) for the block your using. If its auto CONVERT IT
16. H22 exhaust manifold( i just bought after market headers and y-pipe, so no problems with bolting up)
17. H22 exhaust manifold gasket, and y-pipe gasket^^if you buy new headers and they don't come with it
18. H22 Intake manifold gasket set (if you want or if you remove any part of the intake manifold)
19. H22 camshaft seals
Tools needed:
1. Metric sockets: Sizes you should always have for honda, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 36mm<< for our axle nuts. For 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch ratchets. I'm lucky and have access to a air for my impact gun and have a electric impact gun. If you don't have any of these try to have a large 1/2 ratchet and/or a breaker bar.
2. Feeler gauges, you will need .006 for the intake and .007 for the exhaust( these are for the valve lash adjustment)
3. A cutoff wheel
4. A welder or machine shop
5. Measuring tape
6. a press and tools to press with, or a gear puller
7. Torque wrench
8. Haynes or Chilton manual for a prelude 92-01 doesn't matter and for the car your block came from if possible.
9. Polishing wheel(I use air powered, may be able to get a bit for a electric drill or even a dremel)
Head prep
Ok so lets get started, the first things you can get started with is your plan of attack for the 2 oil returns that have to be blocked off. Its the two on the ends of the head(driver side) front and back. This needs to be done because the h22 head is wider than the f/h23 block. You can take the head to a machine shop and have them install thread and plugs in each return I mentioned. Or if your planning on making this permanant, or a continuing with setups like this, you can have the two ports welded closed like I did. This is safer, get someone you trust to do this though, the head is aluminum and easy to damage or warp, and this is OIL we're talking about, pretty much the most important part of your motor.
NOTE: Of course if you buy a f23,h23,f22 long block your going to have to remove the cylinder head from that motor, so might as well get it out of the way. I can post up a fast way to do this if people request it. ( I can remove a cyl head in no more than 45 min in a car). But there will still be some things bypassed that will need to be removed regaurdless.....
Block Prep
1. Depends on the motor, but some do have a small diaphram in the oil port above the knock sensor mounting positon. (right in the center of the block. With the head off, you look at the deck you will see the hole i'm talking about). This need to be removed, this is where the cyl head recieves oil pressure for vtec to engage. You can remove it with a strong magnet sometimes, or thread a tap or screw into it and remove it.
2. The water crossover pipe that is for the block your using needs to be cut in half. The side you need is the side that goes into the back of your water pump. You will need to cut the h22 crossover pipe in half as well, of course you need the oppoosite side of this(side for the t-stat housing). Now if you wanto do this the right/legit way, measure out the length you need the pipe to be and cut accordingly, then have the pipe WELDED together. Some people connect the 2 pipes with a rubber hose and 2 clamps, this is up to you.
3. Onto the water pump situation. Wondering what your using that press for? Well your going to have to press the gear off the new water pump for the block your using, as well as press the gear off the h22 water pump. Now take the h22 water pump gear and press it onto the other water pump housing. Careful not to damage the housing, its aluminum so its not that strong. The gear comes off fairly easy, and make sure the pump still spins freely and easily when your done, If it doesn't your probably gonna need another pump sorry be more cautious next time
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. The bolt is usually a 19mm. If this hasn't been removed before it will be very tight. There is a special tool you can get from honda to hold the pulley to keep from spinning the motor over while trying to break the bolt loose. You can try to remove the bolt with a impact gun. Sometimes it will work sometimes not. If this doesn't work your going to have to figure out a way to keep the motor from spinning over. You can to lock the flywheel up with something, but be cafreful not damge to teeth. And try to break the bolt loose with a 19mm socket and a breaker bar. This wil make you curse alittle so remove any young children or people you don't want to upset. After this is removed, remove the lower timing cover. (all of them are 10mm bolts). Next remove the timing belt and water pump if its still in place.
5. The lower timing gear(crankshaft) needs to be swapped to a H22 gear, You can use the key-way for the block your using though. Very easy just remove the key way and slide the old one off, slide the new one on in its place and reinstall the key-way.
6. Now if your motor does now come with the motor mount bracket, you can use the h series bracket. It will work but one bolt hole will not line up.
Cylinder head install/prep:
NOTE: If you haven't messed with a h22/h23 head before, know this you cannot install the cams before you install the head on the block, The head bolts sit under the camshafts, not to the sides like a sohc does.
1. Your going to want to clean off the deck of the block(mating/gasket surface between the block and cyl head) I have a small angled polishing wheel I use. I've gotten away with sand paper when I was absolutely desperate, but you should be able to get that tool from almost anywhere. Along with the discs for the bit. Make sure to put paper towels or clothes in each cylinder, BEFORE doing this to keep debri out. After your done you should see a nice clean and fairly shiny surface. Wipe off the deck with a clean rag and remove the rags or paper towels from the cylinders.
2. Before install, make sure the h22 head has the dowel pins in place(small round cylinders, that fit into the head, they help line up the head gasket) You'll know the holes because they are stepped so the pin bottoms out. If it doesn't have any remove them from the f series head, but be careful not to bend them.<<You can grab them gently with pliers and rotate it as your pulling it outward.
3. After that make sure the cylinder head surface is clean, and get ready to install the head gasket. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!! The headgasket, CAN be flipped around backwards and still allow the head to be bolted on, as well as everything else. So what I do is sit the cylinder head in front of you like it would be sitting in the car installed. Flip it up so its resting on the intake manifold studs. On what would be the left side or driver's side, there is a point towards the back corner. Now pick up the gasket and match it up to that point. You will see what i'm talking about because the gasket only has the point on the one side that is the same shape and size as the head.
4. If you removed the intake manifold, or just want to replace the gasket. You can install the new intake manifold gasket now after you clean off the mating surface. Then re-install the intake manifold.(this is simple, really don't think I need to explain)
5. Now place the head gasket on the block in the same direction and position I just told you.(so when the head is bolted down that point matches up with the point on the gasket.) Alright so we're are ready to setup the base timing. The bottom end is very simple. #1 cylinder should be a TDC(top dead center, all the way at the top of the cylinder, just before it starts going back down). And the key-way on the crank should be a 12 o'clock. If you didn't know cylinder #1 is the cylinder closest to the pulleys.
6. Now you can place the head on the block, try to line the gasket up as straight as possible with all the ports. Or what you can do is leave the gasket placed on the head(slipped over the dowel pins) and then install the head on the block. This is alittle easier for beginners but it can be done either way I mentioned above.
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