CB7 H22a slow acceleration and no vtec

[letum]

I had a guy put in my h22a which I got from hmotorsonline. He had the wiring all backwards at first and now he thinks it's all correct because the cel codes associated with most of it are gone. Now at least we can run the car with the P13 in . The new problem is that now there is slow acceleration, and no VTEC. The engine is a 94 h22a and the cb7 is a 90 4dr EX.

When we rev it up to hit vtec all we get is what sounds like air blowing out at high speeds.

The car seems to run fine with the f22 ecu in as in it accelerates. But there is a knocking sound and when we pushed it enough cel code 12 came up for the egr which I KNOW isnt plugged in correctly.

Anyway, I guess what this is all leading up it is does anyone have a picture of the hose routing diagram, for this motor or a link to where I can buy a service manual for the h22.

Thanks guys.

[letum]

Also, after taking a closer look at some pictures and my engine it seems I dont have a "vaccum control box" and it looks as if my throttle body is different too because there is no vaccum hose to hook to the MAP sensor, the MAP sensor is screwed in on top of the throttle body.

[SoySauceCb7]

uhhh ok bro it seems like you are having extreme problems.
1. DONT run the h22 off the f22 ecu.
2. Make sure your wires for vtec soilenoid etc are all connected. (please visit our FAQ for h22 swaps in the swap section.
3. You should have a vacum control box. You should have no problem with the f22 one.
4. Throttle body shouldnt be a big deal as long as it does have neccesary Vacum lines.
5. Please post some pics so i can help you visually.
6. How much did you pay this guy?
7. When all ^^^ that is done please pull the CEL codes, and get back to us on what its saying. You can find out how to pull CEL codes in our technical section.
8.Everything you need in terms of info is already posted for your convenience on the swap FAQ, etc. Thanks and enjoy!

[letum]

Also after reading over the Ultimate H22 swap guide from UltimateResourceGuides.com it says for the EGR vacuum routing to go from the plenum (I see that) to the EGR vacuum control valve (what/where is that?) to the EGR solenoid(I can see that, also have on e from f22 still in the bay) to the EGR Valve (I see that too).

Can anyone tell me where to look for the EGR vacuum control valve? This is the only problem left when I have the f22's ecu in. Once I clear that problem it's on to why the VTEC dosn't work.

I was told by the guy doing the install to go ahead and buy a VTEC Oil Pressure switch. Would that high hissing sound (or is it grinding?) be caused by something oil pressure switch related, or does it seem to be a vacuum issue?

Thanks guys, I really need my car back!

[letum]

Hey soy thanks for the response. So a vacuum control box should be there? Because when I looked where it should be there isn't one but it has the spot where it should bolt up.

As far as I can tell the wiring is all ok for the VTEC etc. But with the P13 ECU in I think I was getting cel code 22 which is VTEC pressure valve. I don't know what to do about that, I really hope its vacuum related and can be fixed along the way. Perhaps you'd know.

I paid the guy a grand and gave him extra for parts which he gave me receipts for and it added up good.

If anyone lives in the Gainesville/Ocala area of Florida and wants to make a quick (or maybe not so quick?) hundred bucks I could really use some help!

Thanks.

[EDIT]
And as far as the knocking sound im pretty sure it's the motor mounts which im taking care of right now. The front and rear are bad, and probably the tranny mount too but im only doing front and back for now.

[letum]

I'll be taking some pics tomorrow at work, hopefully you guys can help me out a bit!

I'll be back soon!

[cb7-R]

Kinda of hard to help with no pics but I'll try. DTC 22 is the VTEC oil pressure switch. Make sure you are plugged in to the right ECU plug. DOuble check your wiring ,then check it again. Number one problem after the swap is the wiring. Sometimes the wires might look like they are in but they are actually not making contact with the ECU prong. once that is squared away then your Oil pressure switch may be no good. It can look fine on the outside but not actually work. If you have a friend with an h22 or ANY single cam accord VTEC then try to use one of their switches(deep 22mm to remove it) The vaccum control box is not on your motor it is in your car. it is that black box on your fire wall with the vaccum hoses coming out. Just connect the top three vacuum hoses to where ever you can reach them on top of your throttle body. They are only looking for vaccum and nothing else. and the vacuum is thr same regardless of which tube you use.(One is for cruise control and one is for MAP and one is to help control the noise of your stock intake. No biggie.) the V. hose on the bottom of the box is the one that goes to your EGR

[letum]

Ok, I'm about to go to work but I just wanted to throw this up before I go. I've been looking at prices for oil pressure switches and was wondering if any of these would work, especially this cheap one from napa: Napa Oil Pressure Switch
And then THIS ONE FROM AUTOZONE

And these two from Discount Auto Parts which I can't seem to get linked: KEM PS255 OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Note: valve timing control; vtec; oe #37250-p07-003 99.79

and

KEM PS256 OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Note: valve timing control; vtec; oe #37250-pr3-003 84.98

A buddy of mine works at the place I do and he comes in around 1pm. He drives a 95 civic with a D16 SOHC VTEC. If what you say is right then I should be able to use his oil pressure switch to see if that's the problem correct?

Thanks guys!

[letum]

Ok, I'm going to be getting a vacuum control box off a 4th gen accord out here where I work today. I'll try to get the hoses routed right and see if the P13 runs any better with that all installed. After that ill check the oil pressure switch wire and make sure it's making contact. If not ill fix it, if so, ill try my buddies switch and see if it works.

Can someone please tell me if one of those oil pressure switches up there ^^^ work please.

[cb7-R]

Originally posted by letum
Ok, I'm going to be getting a vacuum control box off a 4th gen accord out here where I work today. I'll try to get the hoses routed right and see if the P13 runs any better with that all installed. After that ill check the oil pressure switch wire and make sure it's making contact. If not ill fix it, if so, ill try my buddies switch and see if it works.

Can someone please tell me if one of those oil pressure switches up there ^^^ work please.

i'm not sure if a civic oil pressure switch is the same size or not. It may be smaller. Also I couldn't see any of the pressure switches you posted above so I dont know if they will work either.Your best bet is to go to a junk yard and buy one. It's not really a wear item, so a junk yard one should last you for years.

[letum]

Well none of the pull-n-saves or anything here have many imports at all, and if they do they have been stripped bare already. I've seen the mayhem. As far as the oil pressure switch I hope to get one out of the buy/sell forum here. I'll worry about that a little later.

It turns out the knocking I heard was detonation due to too-low octane fuel. Went ahead and got the highest and it seems to be good mixed with half a tank of the lowest. High octane for me from now on.

The EGR is all good now that we got the vacuum control box. We are using the map sensor and the EGR stuff that was in the control box. Hopefully that's ok because the prelude map sensor on mine is mounted on the throttle body with no vacuum lines in sight for it.

The big problem now and hopefully easily fixed is the noise it makes when we hit about 5000rpm. It sounds like either high velocity air being shot out or sucked in, or maybe a high pitched grinding. Hopefully one of you will know wtf im talking about as that's the only thing worrying me now.

-Thanks

[letum]

This morning it was like 65 degrees out and when I started the car it idled VERY rough and getting out past 3000rpm seemed like a real chore for it untill it got warm. One of the good mechanics out here says it may be the fuel filter. Another says it may be because there is still low octance fuel in it and we wont be sure untill I've got higher in there.

Once the car has gotten warm and Im sitting at a light or once ive parked, the idle seems to surge a bit. It'll startat about 500, pop up to 700 and then back and forth for a bit, and then sometimes it dosn't do that and it sits at about 700. This is an automatic by the way in case I didn't mention it before. The same mechanic attributes this to the low octane fuel too. We'll see.

If anyone has any ideas that would be great. And the blowoff noise still occurs at about 5000+ rpm if anyone knows what THAT is.

-Thanks