h22 to h23 tensioner conversion

[Night Wolf]

question...what is the point of swapping this part out? why not keep the h22 auto-T?

[JohnD1079]

question...what is the point of swapping this part out? why not keep the h22 auto-T?

bc its a hydrolic tensioner which tends to weaken pressure over time. Also with modded h22s, it may cause the belt to slip at high rpms.

A new auto tensioner and this conversion is about the same price anyway. Also, along with the timing belt/water pump scheduled maintenance at 100k, Im pretty sure that on the h22 the auto tensioner is also included in the "scheduled maintenance"

[NAiL05]

bc its a hydrolic tensioner which tends to weaken pressure over time. Also with modded h22s, it may cause the belt to slip at high rpms.

A new auto tensioner and this conversion is about the same price anyway. Also, along with the timing belt/water pump scheduled maintenance at 100k, Im pretty sure that on the h22 the auto tensioner is also included in the "scheduled maintenance"

Thats somewhat true. But in reality the auto tensioner should last the 70k abuse before the timing change and should be changed. I dont think it was ever meant to be reused.

Anyway the main reason for this upgrade is because auto tensioners do not like aggressive cams or valvetrains which can cause the timing belt on the h22a to slip up which is not fun.

[Night Wolf]

I see.

now in this diy...
http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ad.php?t=10082

why was the water pump removed? was it just to change it or cuz its in the way?

also which timing belt should I use?

[accord2nr81]

anytime you do the timing belt... do the waterpump.... thats just mechainics law

[Night Wolf]

^^^ I added one more question

also someone posted this below is it true?

I know that I'm new to this forum and all, but I think it is reckless to call this optional:

#20/ 14521-P14-A00 - PLATE, ADJUSTER $7.91 Optional-timing belt will be really tight already so no need for it.

The original used belt should be replaced and it is all but impossible to get a new belt onto this new configuration. Even if you can muscle it on, many complain of a whining noise and short belt life (= short head life on an interference engine like this).

I say pony up the money for the plate so that you can secure the tensioner when you get it set. Have room to set it by getting a new belt with an extra tooth (156 vs 155). Even with tightening the belt a little more than the spring would naturally do, you've still got half of your adjusting distance to play with later.

[accord2nr81]

you dont have to have that plate no... i bought it for mine when i did it... and no you dont need it at all. all it is used for is to hold the timing pulley down to get slack. witch in this case you will want it to be more than slack to get the belt on. i say use the h22 belt dont get a 156tt belt.... took me about 15 mins to do this mod. Motor is on a stand.

[Night Wolf]

alright thanx that cleared some things up for me

[ChIoVnIdCa]

Im a little confused here....So it makes the belt tighter.. isn't that replacing a potential problem with another potential problem

[accord2nr81]

the tensinor is bigger than the auto ten. it makes it pretty tight but i still think its better... i bought good greddy belts also.

[ChIoVnIdCa]

the tensinor is bigger than the auto ten. it makes it pretty tight but i still think its better... i bought good greddy belts also.

does that effect belt life though? More prone to failure. Is there extra pressure on the cam seals ...etc..

[Night Wolf]

one more question lol...

does the crankshaft have a seal on the timing belt side that needs replacing?

[accord2nr81]

seal behind crank.... yes take off the two 10mm bolts holding on some wireing the gears will slide off the shaft and then you can see the seal....

and yea the timing belt is tight but i believe it will be fine.... its just a bitch to get on, once its on you can press it in with you finger a good ways atleast you know its not going to slip know....and i doubt its puttin any more pressure on the cam seals. if you swapping in an H its a good mod to do... also dont forget to buy the retainer for the balanceshaft seal or buy a balanceshaft removel kit and do away with it all together

[Night Wolf]

seal behind crank.... yes take off the two 10mm bolts holding on some wireing the gears will slide off the shaft and then you can see the seal....

how do you go about removing that seal? & do you know in what catagory on magestic its under? I cant find it.

link...
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...catcgry4=KA5MT

& that retainer for the balanceshaft. how much $$$ was it?

[accord2nr81]

the retainer isnt much

as for the crank seal i took it out like i took all my other seals out... i used a flathead screw drive wedged it between the seal and the shaft "did put it between the seal and the outer walls. pry down and pull out. once you get them out. put them back in to where they was seated before. so put you new seal in the hole press it with your thumbs as hard as you can to get it to seat in most of the way. then use a hammer and your old seal... put your old seal ontop of the new seal and hammer it in rotating hit points to get it to sit level

i looked at that link... i didnt see it numbered anywhere but if you go to crankshaft-pistions and look at the diagram it would be the part that sits on the shaft right above #22 carterkey

i know its there i just went to honda when i got my swap asked for all the front seals and i went threw eliminating them all. did cam seals 1st the balance shaft seal, then installed the retainer onto of the seal. comes with a new gasket o-ring for your dipstick tube. then went on and huntted down my crank seal i also replaced my intake side cam seal "behind the vtec componet and replaced the vtec seal just because i had taken it off