Looking for GOOD Wheels

[BreckAConner]

Good Afternoon,

I'm having a little trouble for future planning of wheels for my CB. I've researched about cheap brands and seen very bad results in them breaking and what not. I've been looking into more of the expensive wheels such as Volk, Advan, Buddy Club, BBS and etc..

Here's where I get so confused, and I've tried to understand the offset chart but I just don't really get it. Say for example I'll see a set of 16"s I want, with an offset of +30 or less, but my issue is by looking at the wheel in the picture and trying to picture it on car I feel like some wont fit or they would stick out. Basically my question is what aftermarket wheels out there fit close to OEM stock wheels with offset and clearance? I don't want my car to look like this picture below.



basically I'm trying to find a style look of a TE37.

[sonikaccord]

The offset is how far the mounting hub is from the centerline of the wheel. Center of the wheel meaning halfway between the outer lip and inner barrel as if you were facing the front or rear of the car.

For reference, a zero offset means that the center of the wheel and the mounting hub are on the same plane. As the offset becomes more positive, the mounting hub moves closer to the outside of the wheel. Vice versa for negative, but we don't use negative offset because it looks worse than the picture you posted.

The offset and width of the wheel are related. When one changes, it affects how much of the wheel sticks out and/or back in (toward the shock).

Play with an interactive wheel offset calculator and try to visualize it. Next, look at our tire and wheel section here to get a feel for what size, width, and offset looks like on our cars.

[BreckAConner]

The offset is how far the mounting hub is from the centerline of the wheel. Center of the wheel meaning halfway between the outer lip and inner barrel as if you were facing the front or rear of the car.

For reference, a zero offset means that the center of the wheel and the mounting hub are on the same plane. As the offset becomes more positive, the mounting hub moves closer to the outside of the wheel. Vice versa for negative, but we don't use negative offset because it looks worse than the picture you posted.

The offset and width of the wheel are related. When one changes, it affects how much of the wheel sticks out and/or back in (toward the shock).

Play with an interactive wheel offset calculator and try to visualize it. Next, look at our tire and wheel section here to get a feel for what size, width, and offset looks like on our cars.

Okay, I think I'm starting to get it now. I've never messed with wheels except OEM. I just didn't want my car coming out to look like it had clown shoes or some crap.

[Raf99]

Okay, I think I'm starting to get it now. I've never messed with wheels except OEM. I just didn't want my car coming out to look like it had clown shoes or some crap.

Hear that

General rule for our cars is with a 7" wide wheel a +38 offset makes the wheel barely stick out. A +35 offset makes the wheel stick out for sure!

I started the below thread for questions just like yours, hope it helps!
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206779

[oni_cb7]

Hear that

General rule for our cars is with a 7" wide wheel a +38 offset makes the wheel barely stick out. A +35 offset makes the wheel stick out for sure!

I started the below thread for questions just like yours, hope it helps!
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206779

That's not correct...

I have a 15x7 with a +38 offset and it does not stick out at all!

[deevergote]

Stick to an offset no lower than +35, and a width no greater than 7.5", and you should be just fine. You'll need to go lower offset than stock to fit a wider wheel, or you risk rubbing on the inside (and lower offset is better than using spacers.)

The poked wheels on that Civic are probably +0 offset, and some ridiculous width.


If you're running a proper size (which you seem to want to do), and you're not going to be abusing the wheels (racing, driving over rough terrain, etc...) then you'll probably be just fine with a set of Rota Grids, which are TE37 replicas. Compared to the real wheels, most replicas are going to be junk... but I'd trust Rota above most. If they're not abused, they're not likely to break on you. The reputation that such wheels have seems to be fairly exaggerated. With abuse, they'll eventually break faster than quality forged wheels (which will also eventually break.) With careful normal driving, they should be just about as as reliable as a set of cast OEM alloys.

[sonikaccord]

That's not correct...

I have a 15x7 with a +38 offset and it does not stick out at all!

You are also lowered. How much camber are you running because that affects how close the tire is to the fender.

[oni_cb7]

You are also lowered. How much camber are you running because that affects how close the tire is to the fender.

Not much. -2.5 degrees up front and -1.5 in the rear.

Even then, they are tucked under the fender at this point and raising it would not push it past the fender. I know my car and my wheel set-up very well. I've seen my exact wheels on a stock height accord as well; same thing, still within the fender.