i got cross drilled and slotted brembos from honda-tech, havent had any problems yet with warping, which was like the plague on oem shit
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Cross drilled? or Slotted?
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by R33cb7
I have the cross-drilled/slotted style and have no complaints. Actually, I haven't had the need for a brake pad change in 4 1/2 YEARS! The brake pads still have plenty of meat on them due to the way that the rotors are designed. I have read that some of you guys have had this style of rotors and have experienced cracks in them. Not me!Audi A4 2.8 Quattro Sport
Comment
-
Originally posted by williamsvtthe calibers you got on there look pretty serious, how much did those run you and what kind are they?
If imitation is the best form of flattery............thanks for kissing my ass.
Comment
-
i heard that brembo's drilled rotors are in fact forged and not simply drilled afterwards, making them just about as reliable as blanks.
on the other hand, my friend's AEM BBK for his rsx experienced crack within a year, to which they replaced them for a nominal charge. so slotted aren't immune to it either.
slotted supposedly also cut away at the pad quicker, and drilled supposedly act like a cheese grater...i don't see how any of that can really be true though as everything is recessed.
cheers.
Comment
-
Everyone, take a step back, relax, and think about how a car stops. Pretty simple mechanisms. Now:
Is it physically possible for a drilled or slotted rotor to stop better than a blank rotor on the street in dry conditions? It's a pretty simple answer...common sense.
Drilled and slotted rotors DO have an advantage on the track to prevent brake fade. That's all they do. Their main design is to reduce brake fade with a side benefit of reducing weight and slightly better braking in wet conditions.
If you get them for looks, that's another story.
If you just need to replace brakes or want a little better braking, get some cheap autozone rotors with great pads and great tires. Better than throwing down a couple extra bills every year (depending on usage obviously) on "cool" looking rotors you don't need.For Sale:
itr mid pipe = $80 + shiping
tr injen sri $80 + shipping
(2) Eibach ERS 600x2.5x600 = $80shipped in US
Comment
-
I believe that the main criteria for a good disc brake is the material used and its ability to handle heat without warping. slotted and drilled help heat disspertion. works for me so far.
"You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
"the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
"Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -Starchland
Comment
-
Originally posted by TypeGpeople say the cross drilled crack after awhile. they costs about the same. can't think of anything bad about slotted accept they make a light whirling noise. later.
Comment
-
slotted is my opinion. i got a friend that has cross drilled on his talon and they are horrable. they are rusted, warped and stop like shit. a other friend of mine had cross drilled on his gsr at the time his ca stopped worse than mine at the tim. i had slotted in front. drum out back. everybody has his/her opinion. just you your best judgement
Comment
-
Originally posted by azian21485Everyone, take a step back, relax, and think about how a car stops. Pretty simple mechanisms. Now:
Is it physically possible for a drilled or slotted rotor to stop better than a blank rotor on the street in dry conditions? It's a pretty simple answer...common sense.
Drilled and slotted rotors DO have an advantage on the track to prevent brake fade. That's all they do. Their main design is to reduce brake fade with a side benefit of reducing weight and slightly better braking in wet conditions.
If you get them for looks, that's another story.
If you just need to replace brakes or want a little better braking, get some cheap autozone rotors with great pads and great tires. Better than throwing down a couple extra bills every year (depending on usage obviously) on "cool" looking rotors you don't need.
i agree with him..H22 Prelude VTEC 92-96 200 161 10.6:1 87 90 DOHC VTEC 2157 JDM
190.3whp 155 wtq - with bolt ons, and a dc header
ET=14.457 @ 94mph w/ 2.173 60Fter
Comment
-
yea it really depends on your application. Its been said before that c/d and slotted rotors are for heat dissipation and to help brake fade. Ive got Brembo C/D and slotted all around and advance ceramic pads. Best thing ive done to the car yet. Has saved my ass a couple of times. Old ones were warped and i dont think they had been replaced since new
Originally posted by Dr.xYou drive an almost 20 year old car, pretty much everyone can pay it off.. you dont need to be "ballin"
Comment
-
Originally posted by wed3kdrilled only
EDIT: + for the brake lines. That will increase pedal response which will in turn decrease the time it takes for you to stop.
For faster stops, bigger rotors and more clamping power via multi-piston calipers.Last edited by KillerCam282; 03-23-2006, 11:35 PM.
Comment
Comment